Hello from NJ

[fisheye]

Hi All,

We just moved in to a house with a 18' x 36' in group concret pool. I think it's about 27k gallons. We had a lot fun on the memorial weekend.

Quick question, how many hours minimum should I run the main pump? It is the Pentair 2 horse pump, and it is using a lot of energy.

 

[jblizzle]

Welcome

Pump run time is very pool dependent. You really just need to run it long enough to keep the pool clean to your liking.

Just back off the run time until you feel the pool is not a clear as it could be.

Seems that most people with a single speed pump probably run between 6-12 hours (but that is just a guess).

When the time comes for a replacement, a 2-speed or variable speed pump could save you a lot of electricity cost. You may be able to go smaller as well, although have to be careful to have enough water flow for you spa.

 

[linen]

Welcome to tfp, fisheye

How are you chlorinating the pool? This can also help determine run time (as in the case of a salt water chlorine generator) and when the best time to run is (for example pool using liquid chlorine/bleach best to chlorinate in the evening).

 

[fisheye]

Thank you guys!

I am using the 3" tablets in the skimmer bucket. I will go BBB once I can find enough borax.

How long will the pump last?

Thanks,
Peter

 

[fisheye]

I put 4 tablets in the skimmer. Is it too many?

 

[jblizzle]

Borax is completely optional.

The BBB method is more about understanding your pool chemistry and using accurate testing to know what your pool NEEDS.

For example, knowing that the 3" tablets are adding stabilizer (CYA) to your pool that does not go away and if it gets too elevated, likely results in a green pool when the chlorine (FC) level is not maintained high enough.

 

[jblizzle]

I put 4 tablets in the skimmer. Is it too many?

You should not put tablets in your skimmer ... UNLESS you leave the pump on 24/7. Very bad for you equipment.

I would suggest you start reading through Pool School (button at upper right).

 

[linen]

Looks like jbliz already responded, but here is take...

I will go BBB once I can find enough borax.

BBB isn't really about borax, bleach, or baking soda, but about knowing what your pool chemistry is and then if necessary correcting it. This requires an appropriate test kit (see link in my sig).


Before I answer you next question, you should know that trichlor (I am assuming this is the type of puck you are using) also puts cyanuric acid (cya) in your pool. For each 3" trichlor puck, it will raise your cya by 1.1 ppm. This can add up fast and cya can only be removed by drain/refills or Reverse Osmosis. Do you know how the previous owner chlorinated? Do you know what your current cya level is? Our recommendation is 30-50 ppm for your pool. See: http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-school/types_chlorine_pool

I put 4 tablets in the skimmer. Is it too many?

We do not recommend putting the trichlor directly in the skimmer since it is very acid and that can damage equipment (especially heaters) downstream. If you are going to use trichlor, using a floater or an automatic puck feeder is better.

 

[fisheye]

I took the tablets out while the pump is off. CYA is 55. The pool supply store said that CYA is ok for 30-150. Didn't know that the tablets contains CYA.

 

[fisheye]

The tablet is aqua chem 3" chlorinating tabs plus: http://www.aquachem.com/mp/v/index....110VgnVCM10000053d7010aRCRD&vgnextfmt=default

Does it contains CYA?

 

[jblizzle]

The first thing you need to do is order yourself one of the recommended test kits (see my signature) and stop relying on the pool store testing that is notoriously incorrect and in consistent. It will be the best investment you can make for maintaining your pool and will easily pay for itself when you are not buying random chemicals as suggested by the pool store.

Start reading ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry and then continue through the rest of Pool School.

ALL tablets contain CYA. Some granules contain CH instead ... which can also be bad at high levels.

 

[fisheye]

Thank you Jason. I have Taylor K2006, so I am good on the test kit.

My PH is 7.4,
TA is 80, I am going to raise it to 120 with baking soda. If the PH is too hight, I will use muriatic acid to lower it.
Hardness is 141, I am going to buy calcium chloride http://www.lesliespool.com/Home/Pool-Chemicals/Pool-Adjusters/14428.html to raise it to 250.

What else did I miss?

 

[linen]

How does the water look?

The tablet is aqua chem 3" chlorinating tabs plus: http://www.aquachem.com/mp/v/index....110VgnVCM10000053d7010aRCRD&vgnextfmt=default

Does it contains CYA?

Yep those are trichlor. Luckly, you are at a managable level. Our recommendation is 30 -50 ppm for your type of pool. Ignore the pool stores numbers as going up to 150 ppm will eventually require you to drain and refill.

Great news on having the K-2006 That is the tool for the job!

TA is 80, I am going to raise it to 120 with baking soda.

Don't do that, you have it about where you want it. See: http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-school/recommended_levels

My PH is 7.4,

That is fine for now.

 

[jblizzle]

Raising the CH is probably a good idea, but there is really no reason to raise the TA. Higher TA will tend to make the pH rise.

What are you going to use to add chlorine to your pool? Your CYA is 55ppm (close to the recommended range), so according to the Chlorine CYA Chart you need to maintain your FC between 5-7ppm and never let it drop below 5ppm.

 

[fisheye]

I need to stop going to the pool store.

I got the trichlor from Costco.

The water looks clear and blue.

For now, I just need to raise CH to 300. What should TA be to balance calcium at 300?

 

[jblizzle]

TA is just a buffer for pH ... not related to CH

ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry