Above Ground Pool Project Thread

[crokett]

I officially started the install of the pool today. 15x30 oval. I got all the blocks leveled and set for the metal uprights. Now my first question that unfortunately did not occur to me before I started digging. I was out there looking things over with a beer when I started wondering about backfilling.

Here's a side view of the problem side. You can see some of the pool wall will be below grade. Do I need to plan more digging and then some sort of retaining wall, or can I backfill after the water is in it?
I would grade the back fill so only the bottom 6" or so of the wall is covered. ]Is there a way to waterproof the wall similar to house foundation so I can backfill?

Also, I was going to call the company monday but the instructions I have don't quite match the pool. There are several pieces of corrugated metal designed to go across the legs to protect the liner and support the sand. I have 10 legs and 8 pieces of metal. The instructions say the metal has holes in the middle. Mine has holes in the ends, so I assume I bolt it between the legs on top of the straps that run across to the other side of the pool.

 

[Bama Rambler]

I wouldn't worry about it being partially buried. If it's half or less I'd just backfill against the wall.

 

[crokett]

Thanks, that makes things a lot easier. I'm annoyed I didn't think about it before this.

 

[mcoonan]

The spray on truck bed liner is supposed to work great.

 

[crokett]

Ok another question - the screws for the metal straps....

The existing screws are galvanized 5/16 x 18 tpi pan head phillips. Some of them are stripped. I can find stainless 5/16 x 18 tpi, but not pan head. I can find galvanized pan head but not the size I need. Since the screws will a) be down in the trough and b) covered by sand, am I overthinking and can I just use hex head? I am worried about the edges on the hex head hurting the liner.

 

[Bama Rambler]

Hex heads should be fine and if you want a little more insurance you can cover them with a square of gorilla tape.

 

[crokett]

HELP!!!

Ok, just throwing this out there while I wait for a call back from the manufacturer. I got this pool used. I did not take it down. I was told by the seller it was a 15x30 oval. It did not come with directions, only a marketing flyer for products by Leisure Time Pools. After some research last fall I though I'd located the manufacturer - Wilbur International, apparently they make several different branded pools. They emailed some installation instructions and said they weren't exact but would be close enough. The instructions cover a few different sizes of pools. The instructions call out 42" OC between the metal uprights down the sides of the pool. They specifically mention 3 or 4 uprights per side, but then say if you have a different number, just space each at 42" per side. (The instructions have diagrams for 3, 4 or 6 uprights per side). I have 5 uprights per side. I set the blocks for 42" on center. Now when I went to put the uprights in, the metal plates that run between them (not the straps across the pool) are drilled for 45" OC - so the blocks were in the wrong places. On Monday instead of starting to install the pool wall, I was busy moving the blocks and leveling again. It also occurred to me that the size of the pool might be wrong, it might be larger than 15x30. So.. I am hoping there is a pro out there who knows, or knows who I can contact at Leisure Time.

 

[Bama Rambler]

If I'm working it out correctly. 5 on 45" plus the ends gives me 30' long at 15' wide. A 15'x30' sounds right to me.

 

[crokett]

Thanks. I just got off the phone with the manufacturer - they had the two technical guys out most of this week. They said the same thing, it is a 15x30.

 

[crokett]

Finally Some Progress Pics

Well after a very long day the pool is ready to install the liner. Some in-progress pictures. Also, if anyone else is planning on doing it themselves, I highly recommend as you are installing the wall to install the top braces as you go. We figured this out on the third attempt at installing the wall. Most of the advice on the internet (and the instructions for the pool) suggest stakes for bracing and clamps to clamp the wall to the stakes. If you use the top braces, any other bracing really isn't necessary.

Sides are up, setting the track for the pool wall
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-4BnX ... idesup.JPG

Leveling the sand:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3zFj ... ngsand.JPG

Pool is ready for the liner:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-O1A4 ... liner2.JPG

 

[britinusa]

Have you tamped the sand down flatter than the last picture shows?
Mine looked like that when I put in my liner and by base is not flat, I regret not getting the correct tools and tamping it flat.

 

[crokett]

No I haven't. Only broomed. Did you use a hand tamper or a plate compacter?

 

[hayabusa3]

Forget the tamping tools - I found it a waste of time. Get a few large thin sheets of plywood and walk on them, moving up and down the pools. Then reach in with something and smooth the little edges. I spent ages trying to 'tamp tamp tamp' but found this way faster and totally smooth.

 

[crokett]

I used the plywood method. I got the liner installed. However, what is the best/easiest way to get the wrinkles out? I have't put any water in yet. I figured I would let the liner hang and do whatever relaxing it was going to do.

 

[britinusa]

Use a shop vac to get as much of the wrinkles out, the base needs to be flat as once the water starts going in you may not be able to get those wrinkles out.

 

[hayabusa3]

I tried the shop vacc but i kept sucking the liner in, instead of getting wrinkles out.... ended up tapping with a broom while a second person pulls up on the liner. There are quite a few install videos on the web where the pro installers do this, worked for me.

 

[crokett]

I will look at the broom tapping. Thanks for the tip. I tried the shop vac thing briefly this afternoon, that didn't work for me either.

 

[hayabusa3]

Check out 2:45
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pr1ajyfdeUk

 

[crokett]

So I am looking into using a shop vac on the liner. I have a question about step 19 here:

http://pools.wrytestuff.com/swa61279.htm

"Seating is complete when you are left with a 2" to 4" air gap between the liner and wall."

The liner is installed. The walls are pretty wrinkle free. The floor does have wrinkles. My question is, I have about a 2" air gap now, without doing anything. Do I still need the shop vac, or can I broom out the floor wrinkles and I am good to go? Will the air gap get bigger once I broom out the wrinkles on the floor? Also, is it necessary to keep the vac running while I am filling with water? I have read a few different methods to do this.

thanks

 

[hayabusa3]

Never mind the walls having no wrinkles - you can be pulling up on the liner as you fill the pool (very slow process) but you must get all of the wrinkles out of the bottom before filling, and try not to step into the pool too much with the liner in there because you could leave dimples in the sand from your heels witch will act as pockets for dirt (happened to me). IMOP, ditch the vacuum, keep pulling up on the liner and tapping with the broom. When there are no more wrinkles in the bottom start filling with water, all the while checking and pulling up on the liner. Dont cut the hole for the skimmer and return until the water is about a half inch from the holes... I cut mine when it was a few inches below the holes and the locations changed very slightly - was thinking i might have to buy a new liner but it worked out ok.