When I started up my Raypak PR267 low nox heater this week the heater was firing but cutting out frequently. I had this problem a couple of years ago and cleaned the pilot and rewired the frayed ground wire between the pilot and the valve. The unit has run well up to now. Today I proceeded to clean and refresh the ground connection since the green wire was cooked black. After reassembly, the unit would not even spark. The fault code FFL comes up and then nothing. I tried taking out the pilot and making sure the pilot was not blocked. I reseated all the wires on the gas valve to make sure they were making good contact but I stuck with the FFL fault upon reseting the power. Anybody have a guess what I did to cause the FFL error.
Rapak Model PR267A-EN-C FFL Error Code
- Thread starter DavidK
- Start date
Pool Clown
In The Industry
Thanks for the information. I have a control board on order and will post whether the new controller resolves the FFL fault. What puzzles me is how the controller senses whether there is a flame. The electronic low-nox system has no thermocouple. It just has a spark wire and ground wire going out to the pilot.
In ignitor has a dual purpose and can tell if there is a pilot or not. The page Pool Clown is showing you says to the right of the image "Indicates flames signal at PILOT before SPARK initiated and pilot established." You should also investigate why you have "cooked" wires. Under normal conditions wires should not get "cooked."
The ground wire attaching to the pilot assembly was black for about 1/4" but not melted. I'm thinking this happened on a windy day and some flame spilled back. The heater is near the side of a building but the installation complies with the installation code and passed inspection. I could add a stack to lessen the chance of flame damage.
I am attaching a file that explains flame rectification which answers my question on how the controller senses whether a flame is present.
I am attaching a file that explains flame rectification which answers my question on how the controller senses whether a flame is present.
gkruske
0
- Aug 7, 2009
- 220
I just dealt with the same thing, probably the equivelant error code to my 406A.
http://www.troublefreepool.com/raypack-407a-doesn-t-fire-t42644.html
http://www.troublefreepool.com/raypack-407a-doesn-t-fire-t42644.html
GKruske, My issue is different in that I get a FFL fault right after the temperature is displayed during power on. My system is detecting a flame before it gets to the CFH or SRK stages and is shutting down. I replaced the pilot assembly already and confirmed my grounding. Poolclown above sent a maintenance page that lead me to believe the problem is my controller board. My systems still shows an FFL fault even with the ignition wire removed at the control board. I will post again when I try the new board tomorrow. By the way there is no thermocouple involved. The controller senses the flame through a mico current that is rectified by the flame when present (see attachment above).
gkruske
0
- Aug 7, 2009
- 220
Interesting. I certainly hope a new PC board solves the problem....been there, done that. I know how expensive those things are!
The new controller board resolved the FFL error code. I had some confusion with the instructions which stated that for a low nox unit a circuit board tab should be left in place. The instructions stated "for Low NOx Only....DO NOT break tab". I observed that my original board had the tab removed. I tried the board with the tab in place, the unit fired but then I got a message that read "Tab" and the unit shut off. I cut the trace on the back of the tab and the unit works perfectly now. The job took less than 30 minutes included taking a photo of the board and sketching all the connectors and wire color positions on a note pad.
Thanks for all the help, looks like the pool will be cooking for Memorial Day. Have a safe holiday!
Thanks for all the help, looks like the pool will be cooking for Memorial Day. Have a safe holiday!
To whom it may concern. My system too gave the FLL right after the temps. I didn't see the pilot still going until I looked really close. It's very easy to miss that the pilot is still running since it was a smaller version of the actual pilot when all was working correctly. Replacing gas valve now. I disconnected all wiresw from the valave and still saw the pilot running so it seems pretty positive it is the valve.
Well thanks to this web-site I saved a bunch of time. It turns out the gas pilot was stuck on, I changed the valve and all is good. The test where you remove the ignition wire and listen for a spark was very helpful. I heard the spark when the wire was disconnected which told me it had to be the system was detecting a pilot. Again anyone doing this be careful to look closely, the pilot was very small but present!
Are these valves repairable or are they throw away. I'll take a quick look, my guess is corrosion. I'll let you know what I find.
Are these valves repairable or are they throw away. I'll take a quick look, my guess is corrosion. I'll let you know what I find.