I can't remember if I've ever bought it at Leslies, but I just bought some a week ago at Warehouse Pool Supply. Got one of those near you? Keep in mind you can buy 6% at wally world or any grocery store.
Pool Gone Wild
- Thread starter texaspoolnewbie
- Start date
IkeRay
0
tagprod said:
yep, warehouse has it, but its $1.60/6% gal iirc, which isnt worth it. $3/gal or something, even at 12% concentrate, the current kroger sales beats that (buy 10 clorox at $1.50, get instant $5, so $1/bottle, $1.33/gal).
the key is to look at the concentrate level, and as long as it says "sodium hydrochlorite" you are good. some one mentioned that big lots has it cheaper than wal-mart, ill let you know what i find out from there.
I can't find any here in the Austin area... So I keep buying my 6% from Sams and Wally world. I only visit the Pool Store to get a testing every three months or so and buy pool related toys where I can't get else where. The test is a joke... I take a sample to two stores near one another...readings are way differant between the two. I compare them to my own two readings (TF100 and ColorQ). I love the look on their face when my water is near perfect... nothing to sell me on that trip!
I am new to pool ownership and had mine built last year. I have used BBB from the start and "knock on wood", not a single issue. Clear water with no smell... My buds whom own SWG and others pools love mine. Makes me proud for a first time owner! The Liquidator has made the use of bleach so...so easy...
I am going to try out the PH Adjuster by Hasa to control my PH a bit better. I test every other day or so when the water is near perfect and daily when I am adjusting the chems. My pool is still using a lot of acid so I decided to try the PH Adjuster. I am hoping it works as well as the Liquidator... I am tired of dealing with the liquid acid and going to try the Sodium Bisulfite. Any issues with using this?
I am new to pool ownership and had mine built last year. I have used BBB from the start and "knock on wood", not a single issue. Clear water with no smell... My buds whom own SWG and others pools love mine. Makes me proud for a first time owner! The Liquidator has made the use of bleach so...so easy...
I am going to try out the PH Adjuster by Hasa to control my PH a bit better. I test every other day or so when the water is near perfect and daily when I am adjusting the chems. My pool is still using a lot of acid so I decided to try the PH Adjuster. I am hoping it works as well as the Liquidator... I am tired of dealing with the liquid acid and going to try the Sodium Bisulfite. Any issues with using this?
If you use a lot of Sodium Bisulfite you can get some sulfates building up in the pool. At low levels that is fine but at high levels sulfates can cause damage to SWG cells and plaster. So it all you do is the occasional adjustment of the PH then no worries, but if you are currently adding 1/2 a gallon of muriatic acid a week then there may eventually be problems with Sodium Bisulfite.
Sabot,
It's Sodium Bisulfate (not bisulfite) aka "dry acid". It doesn't fume so storage isn't as much of an issue as with Muriatic Acid. Even so, make sure the bottles remain tightly capped.
The main issue is that it adds sulfates to the water, but we really don't know at what level sulfates become a problem. One pound (about 1-1/3 cups) of 93.2% sodium bisulfate in 10,000 gallons adds 9.6 ppm to sulfates.
We don't know details about what sulfates do except that I do know that high sulfates lowers the saturation index. At normal calcium carbonate saturated pool levels, 300 ppm sulfates lowers the saturation index by 0.1, 600 ppm by 0.2, 1050 ppm by 0.3, 1650 ppm by 0.4. Splash out of water with high sulfates could potentially be destructive to stone and concrete surfaces since magnesium sulfate supposedly has the highest salt crystallization pressure (i.e. it is most "repulsed" by stone molecules so doesn't form crystals merged with stone and instead puts pressure against the stone when forming crystals when water evaporates). In pools with higher chloride levels (e.g. SWG pools), high sulfate levels can make the water much more corrosive against stainless steel (chlorides interfere with stainless steel reforming its passivity layer and sulfates make this problem much worse), but again we don't know the sulfate level when this gets bad.
Richard
It's Sodium Bisulfate (not bisulfite) aka "dry acid". It doesn't fume so storage isn't as much of an issue as with Muriatic Acid. Even so, make sure the bottles remain tightly capped.
The main issue is that it adds sulfates to the water, but we really don't know at what level sulfates become a problem. One pound (about 1-1/3 cups) of 93.2% sodium bisulfate in 10,000 gallons adds 9.6 ppm to sulfates.
We don't know details about what sulfates do except that I do know that high sulfates lowers the saturation index. At normal calcium carbonate saturated pool levels, 300 ppm sulfates lowers the saturation index by 0.1, 600 ppm by 0.2, 1050 ppm by 0.3, 1650 ppm by 0.4. Splash out of water with high sulfates could potentially be destructive to stone and concrete surfaces since magnesium sulfate supposedly has the highest salt crystallization pressure (i.e. it is most "repulsed" by stone molecules so doesn't form crystals merged with stone and instead puts pressure against the stone when forming crystals when water evaporates). In pools with higher chloride levels (e.g. SWG pools), high sulfate levels can make the water much more corrosive against stainless steel (chlorides interfere with stainless steel reforming its passivity layer and sulfates make this problem much worse), but again we don't know the sulfate level when this gets bad.
Richard
Does muriatic acid also produce sulfates?
Is there a test for sulfates?
See the Wikipedia Sulfate Entry.
[Edited by JasonLion to replace a copy from a Wikipedia entry with a link]
Is there a test for sulfates?
See the Wikipedia Sulfate Entry.
[Edited by JasonLion to replace a copy from a Wikipedia entry with a link]
I very much doubt those test results. FC is probably higher than that and they just record anything above 5 as 5. The CYA test is probably off as well. PH is likely to be at least close, though you never know.
If you can get a more reliable FC level yourself then there may be something to adjust tonight's shock level on, but otherwise I would go ahead and shock tonight as planned.
If you can get a more reliable FC level yourself then there may be something to adjust tonight's shock level on, but otherwise I would go ahead and shock tonight as planned.
JasonLion said:
You are right about the 5 reading. She said anything over 5 they cant read, but that anything over 10 the test would fail. I am very pleased to have any FC. I will go ahead and shock tonight as well, if it cant do any harm than it is worth it to sock it to the algae. My home test said 10.
Ph I am not worried about, like you said it is close to the day before and I doubt it could be higher with the acid you guys had me do.
The CYA is a bit distressing, wondering if it read low yesterday making todays high confusing. Or did it rise, unlikely. Or is todays test a joke. What a waste of time!
Sabot,
In the future, you can just link to Wikipedia or anything else rather than copying it in so that the thread is less cluttered (use the world symbol above that has a chain link under it).
Muriatic Acid is Hydrochloric Acid (usually 31.45% strength or thereabouts) and does not add sulfates (it adds chloride instead). The half-strength Muriatic Acid probably doesn't fume as much, though is usually sold at the same price (so more expensive per actual acid amount).
As for sulfate test kits, Hach apparently has one here and Lamotte has kit 7307 in a table here. waterbear knows test kits far better than I so could give better advice in this area. However, since we don't know at what level things begin to be a problem, I'm not sure a test kit makes a lot of sense. You can figure your sulfates pretty easily by just keeping track of your acid additions since they will only be removed by dilution.
Richard
In the future, you can just link to Wikipedia or anything else rather than copying it in so that the thread is less cluttered (use the world symbol above that has a chain link under it).
Muriatic Acid is Hydrochloric Acid (usually 31.45% strength or thereabouts) and does not add sulfates (it adds chloride instead). The half-strength Muriatic Acid probably doesn't fume as much, though is usually sold at the same price (so more expensive per actual acid amount).
As for sulfate test kits, Hach apparently has one here and Lamotte has kit 7307 in a table here. waterbear knows test kits far better than I so could give better advice in this area. However, since we don't know at what level things begin to be a problem, I'm not sure a test kit makes a lot of sense. You can figure your sulfates pretty easily by just keeping track of your acid additions since they will only be removed by dilution.
Richard
Okay I am back! Things are looking really good here, numbers all staying where we want them. Water looks pretty good, okay great. The only thing is a bit of junk I need to vac since my heebie jeebie is still of the fritz, I have had to manual vac this whole time since he seems to have a mind of his own...we order parts.
Now for the question...
We still have filters on 24/7...what can I drop them too? And should I start slowly, ultimately ending at that time. I haev heard 1 hour for every 10 degrees outside.
Also my SWG is still running at 80%...Drop to 60% now? Drop further? Over time? What is my bottom goal?
Will be bugging about some staining soon as well...
Now for the question...
We still have filters on 24/7...what can I drop them too? And should I start slowly, ultimately ending at that time. I haev heard 1 hour for every 10 degrees outside.
Also my SWG is still running at 80%...Drop to 60% now? Drop further? Over time? What is my bottom goal?
Will be bugging about some staining soon as well...
You need to adjust the SWG percentage based on FC testing. If FC is too high then lower the percentage. If FC is too low then raise the percentage. Several days of experimenting and you can get it adjusted nicely. Then switch to testing every week or two and adjusting the percentage as needed, since the required percentage will vary slowly through the season.
For pump run time: take a look at how the water looks with the pump running 24/7 then change the run time, wait a week, and see how the water looks. With a little experimenting you can figure out where you need it set. Keep in mind that this will need to be adjusted based on the water temperature and you will want extra run time after pool parties. The 1 hour for every 10 degrees rule of thumb has the right idea, more run time when it is warmer, but the actual run time varies depending on the relative size of your pool and pump.
For pump run time: take a look at how the water looks with the pump running 24/7 then change the run time, wait a week, and see how the water looks. With a little experimenting you can figure out where you need it set. Keep in mind that this will need to be adjusted based on the water temperature and you will want extra run time after pool parties. The 1 hour for every 10 degrees rule of thumb has the right idea, more run time when it is warmer, but the actual run time varies depending on the relative size of your pool and pump.