12 Years of Baquacil - No More!

[CF]

I took the plunge, and decided that I was no longer going to be "frustrated" with the costly performance of an UNCLEAR/CLOUDY Baquacil Pool after 12 years of living with mediocre pool standards. :-D

My starting "arsenal" consisted of 5 gallons of 12% shock for $2.99 a gallon at Job lot. I also bought 2 sets of sand ... cheap brown sand (from Walmart) for the conversion process, and more expensive white sand (higher quality / refinement capability, pictured below) from a local pool store that provided EXCELLENT customer service (Ok Teddy Bear Pools).

Notice the UNUSED Baquacil Algicide still in plastic wrapper from last year. The bottle used to give me comfort ... now ... the mere sight of it conjures up bad memories

 

[CF]

This vacuum was given a chance to redeem itself today. In the past, could never figure out what was going on with it. Why? Because I could never SEE IT CLEARLY at the bottom of the pool, due to the cloudiness of the Bacquacil. Had to pull it out of the water to see if it was clogged. Needless to say, there was so much derbis at the bottom of my pool that it always got clogged up with twigs. Why didn't I just swoop up the debris in the past?

Take a guess. ....

That's right. I could never see it! Just felt it on my feet sometimes. Baquacil kept my pool blue and clean .... and cloudy. I ran into the same issues but was able to see into the pool early on this year because most of the "cloud particles" (including twigs and leaves) sunk to the bottom and I used Frog and net to scoop out.

Also notice the Borax I got from Walmart to increase PH / Alkalinity. 4.75lbs for approx $3.88

 

[JasonLion]

Love the photos!

 

[Samantha_in_AL]

Congrats on your decision to convert to BBB, I promise you won't regret it. Take lots of pics along the way and keep us updated on your progress. We are here if you need us.

 

[CF]

Using the Pool Calculator, I used Borax to raise the pH. I poured in about 5-7lbs and after maybe 15 hrs (I first poured it in on Saturday around 6-7pm, then checked mid Sunday), several tests showed results that lingered in the yellow zone. I was beginning to get frustrated, then realized I never checked TA. Needless to say, I took another trip to Wally World and got some Arm and Hammer Baking Soda for explicit TA increase just because, well .... I was getting desperate and wanted to do something else to shake things up. By the way, they also sold HTH Alkalinity increase for like $9 for 5lbs. I found the Baking Soda for 4lbs for like $3.88 .... no brainer, I put the "pool chemical" back and got the ... eh ... cooking stuff.

SUCCESS! I got the TA from 40 to 80, and then it was back to BORAX time.

This is what it looked like prior to the final attempt at a pH of 7.2.

 

[CF]

Thanks for the encouraging words, kind sirs! Will definitely keep you apprised of status!

 

[CF]

Needless to say, the TA increase seemed to do the trick. I got my pH out of the yellow zone of an unknown-below-7.2 range and into the RED range of 7.2!!! Ecstatic! Now, ready for the shock-o-rama.

OK, so check out what happened. I was expecting color changes from reading the forum ... I actually looked and one OP's pics AFTER I did mine and was glad to see I got similar results (and that I didn't do something wrong).

Within 5-10 minutes after pouring in the 12% Bleach (6.59pm)

Seven minutes later (7.06pm)

Two hrs later, lighting it up with my upgraded Surefire G2 (9.07pm) :lol:
Had to pay attention to our mother's day guests at this point (say good night and all) .... so I called it a night. Will check tomorrow, now I have an excuse to get up early for work for ONCE

 

[Smykowski]

I love these threads. Great pics, keep em coming!

 

[linen]

Yes, thanks for the pictures, really fun to see! ::

Nice puke green color by the way.

 

[Leebo]

Congrats on switching from Baquacil. I promise you after your hard work is over making the switch you'll enjoy your new pool.

Two quick questions however......
1. Is that the "regular" Baquacil Algicide or the "premium" algicide???
2. What are you using to test your Chlorine?? Your numbers seem to maybe say you're using strips to test your numbers??

 

[CF]

Good morning. Just checked the pool, my wifes said it looked milky white but I think it's more light green ...

...Two quick questions however......
1. Is that the "regular" Baquacil Algicide or the "premium" algicide???
2. What are you using to test your Chlorine?? Your numbers seem to maybe say you're using strips to test your numbers??

I'll have to check on the Algicide and get back to you.
Re: chlorine test, glad you asked. I'm using the HtH 6 way test from wally world, and I just noticed the units of measure are 1-5. I see a color match of 1. How do I convert this to the units recommended as per

pool-school/baqua_chlorine_conversion[/url])]Test your water frequently and add the appropriate amount of bleach to get back up to 15ppm

 

[zea3]

You really need a FAS-DPD test kit that will enable you to test FC levels of up to 50+ ppm. The TF 100 is a very good value and the shipping is quick.

 

[CF]

I was contemplating the TF 100 vs TF 50 ... any downside if I went with the TF-50?

http://tftestkits.net/TFTestkits-TF-50-p55.html

Also, in the HtH instructions, when I tested for Alkalinity, basically I counted # of drops to turn color, then multiplied by 10. Is that a ppm conversion? And if so, would this mean my chlorine appears to be at 10?

One other question, what is the need to test FC at 50+ ppm? I was thinking that all I needed to do was get it to 15, no?

 

[Leebo]

With the TF 50 you miss out on a few items. One is the PH kit (not a problem if you have the 6 way test as you do). Some use this daily to quickly check their FC level (up to 5) and their PH. The other MAIN difference in this case is the R-871. This is the reagent that you'll add to test your FC level. You get half the dose in the TF-50. You will fly threw this! I went threw almost a full bottle just with the conversion last year. Save the shipping now....you will need the extra reagent. If you don't use as much as I did....it lasts for some time, and you'll use it often during the year.

As for the FC at 50+. Where did you see that?? DON"T DO IT! You will run the risk of ruining your liner at this level. Stay with a FC level of 15....in which you can't hit with the HTH kit.


EDIT.....To convert from one to the other on the FC is simple. If your color match on the HTH kit say's 2....then you have 2PPM of FC. Your kit simply isn't able to test up to a level of 15PPM Free Chlorine. It's GREAT for daily checks, but doesn't cut the mustard when it comes to shocking.

 

[Leebo]

One other question, what is the need to test FC at 50+ ppm? I was thinking that all I needed to do was get it to 15, no?

Now I'm guessing I see where you got this from. The FAS/DPD test is accurate up to a 50 PPM FC level. If your CYA level is well over 100 then to accurately shock the pool, you would need a FC level of 40 to 50. If this were the case however we'd strongly suggest draining some water to lower the level rather than shocking with that high of a FC level. In your case however with zero CYA level....a FC mark of 15 will shock your pool just right!

 

[CF]

Ahhh .. thanks for the info. So let me see if I got this right.

To convert from Baquacil to chlorine, I need to adequately shock my pool, and this is recommended to be achieved by getting the FC level to 15ppm. Once that stabilizes, then I'm done shocking and can go into pool balance tasks / maintenance. Getting the TF100 or TF50 kit provides me the R-871 re-agent so that I can test the FC levels at 15ppm. TF100 provides sufficient quantities of R-871, TF50 is half the amount. And the HTH kit does not provide the tool to measure FC at 15ppm (only 4ppm).

Questions/Comments:
1. Is the necessary R-871 reagent not included in the HTH kit? If not, then for sure I will get the TF kit.
2. What would happen if I just pushed the FC to a level less than 15 ppm? It seems to me that most people who use HTH products would only have the capacity to measure (and therefore manage) FC ppm levels at a max of 4. All of my neighbors who have chlorine pools have envied clarity, and I'm guessing they follow the conventional HtH standards? Would a goal of less than CL of 15ppm extend the duration of my conversion process, I'm guessing, by up to 3 times longer?
3. One reason I did not immediately purchase either of the TF's was because of the Salt tests which I did not think I needed. I was thinking of buying the least amt of chemicals, then adding only what I needed. Seems I could by additional CYA tests since the HTH kit only contains 2 tests for this.

Any thoughts on this?

Thank you!

 

[CF]

http://tftestkits.net/XL-Option-for-TF-100-p62.html[/url] ,]Generally, this option is intended for those homeowners that are having some problems (algae, especially) with their water clarity and will need to do quite a bit of testing.

It is also ideal for those folks doing a baquacil conversion because of the high chlorine levels you will need to test.

It's third purpose is simply to give you the choice of saving some money on the two refill items you will likely need first. Stored properly, there is set expiration date on the chemistry so this option can save you some money on the chemistry and shipping the refills later.

I wonder if this is the R-871 reagent? Even if it is, I believe I still need a tool/reader that goes up to 15 ppm (assuming that the 4ppm target will undesirabley extend the duration of my conversion process)

 

[CF]

Oh!!

Will this one fill the niche for the FC 15ppm journey? :lol:

http://tftestkits.net/FAS-DPD-Chlorine- ... t-p47.html

This FAS/DPD Test will test Free Chlorine up to 50+ppm with an accuracy of .5ppm. (,2ppm if you really need to be precise) Additionally, it contains the R-0003 reagent so you can test for combined chloramines.

Neither the test for free chlorine or for combined chloramines is found in the cheaper kits. Your water chemistry management takes on a whole new meaning once you are able to perform these essential tests.

It does not come in it's own kit box or container. It contains enough chemistry to perform around 40-70 tests....depending on your chlorine level.

 

[Leebo]

To convert from Baquacil to chlorine, I need to adequately shock my pool, and this is recommended to be achieved by getting the FC level to 15ppm. Once that stabilizes, then I'm done shocking and can go into pool balance tasks / maintenance.

This is correct.

Getting the TF100 or TF50 kit provides me the R-871 re-agent so that I can test the FC levels at 15ppm. TF100 provides sufficient quantities of R-871, TF50 is half the amount. And the HTH kit does not provide the tool to measure FC at 15ppm (only 4ppm).

Both kits provides you the tests to go up to FC levels of 50....but you only need to hit 15 in this case.

1. Is the necessary R-871 reagent not included in the HTH kit? If not, then for sure I will get the TF kit.

It's not included in the HTH kit. Their test is an OTO kit (if I'm incorrect please yell at me as I'm not 100% sure. No idea what it means either) which only allows testing up to 5FC. After that it all blends together and washes out. The kit just doesn't work well for shocking purposes.

2. What would happen if I just pushed the FC to a level less than 15 ppm? It seems to me that most people who use HTH products would only have the capacity to measure (and therefore manage) FC ppm levels at a max of 4. All of my neighbors who have chlorine pools have envied clarity, and I'm guessing they follow the conventional HtH standards? Would a goal of less than CL of 15ppm extend the duration of my conversion process, I'm guessing, by up to 3 times longer?

It would take longer....and I'm guessing in the mean time you'll end up with a mess of a pool too. You'll spend a ton of extra cash trying to keep it "clean" and end up throwing chemicals into the pool in anger. Some will splash you in your face causing severe pain. You will head to the ER where they will wash your eyes out and put an eye patch over your eye. On the way home you will stop by a local bar for a drink to help calm you down, where some guy named BUZZ will think you're "tuff". He will then proceed to give you a swirly in the lady's toilet. Don't end up face down in the lady's toilet....buy the TF-100. Your pool will quickly become the envoy of your neighbors who are willing to listen to a crazy guy who ignores the pool store whacko and listens to some guy on the internet who's currently wearing two different colored shoes. We'll save you cash too.

3. One reason I did not immediately purchase either of the TF's was because of the Salt tests which I did not think I needed. I was thinking of buying the least amt of chemicals, then adding only what I needed. Seems I could by additional CYA tests since the HTH kit only contains 2 tests for this.

You shouldn't have a need for the salt test in this case. Adding only liquid chlorine adds so little amount of salt, it's a null and void issue. If down the line you add salt for a SWG or for water feel then you can purchase test strips which work just fine in this case.

Oh!!

Will this one fill the niche for the FC 15ppm journey? :lol:

http://tftestkits.net/FAS-DPD-Chlorine- ... t-p47.html

This one will fill the niche for the FC of 15 Journey. This is the famous FAS/DPD kit that is NOT in the HTH kit. If you're looking to save some cash and are cool using the HTH for the other tests (IE PH, CH, CYA, and TA) then this is just the kit you're after. It will help you measure your FC levels up to 50, plus allow you to test your CC which hints to you the though of algae in the future.

 

[CF]

Oh!!

Will this one fill the niche for the FC 15ppm journey? :lol:

http://tftestkits.net/FAS-DPD-Chlorine- ... t-p47.html

This one will fill the niche for the FC of 15 Journey. This is the famous FAS/DPD kit that is NOT in the HTH kit. If you're looking to save some cash and are cool using the HTH for the other tests (IE PH, CH, CYA, and TA) then this is just the kit you're after. It will help you measure your FC levels up to 50, plus allow you to test your CC which hints to you the though of algae in the future.

Sweet! Now I won't have to go to the emergency room for burns, or on the way home, get beat up at the bar by Bubba ... I should probably get Satellite TV while I'm at it too!!