First Tests with TF-100

[Alynn]

Hi, All! I received my TF-100 today and ran my first set of tests.... Here are the results:

FC: 1.5
CC: .5
pH: 8.2
TA: 160
CYA: -0-
Salt: 3300

The water is crystal clear, but I do have a couple of small spots of green algae. I have been working on them, adding 10.5% pool store chlorine and brushing. They are much lighter than they were and won't brush off anymore, almost like the algae has stained the pool bottom.

I am planning to do the overnight free chlorine level test tomorrow night and depending on the outcome, doing a full shock this weekend, along with adding the proper amount of muriatic acid to lower the pH.

I have a couple of questions, though...
1. What is the recommendation for the type of CYA to purchase? I normally purchase chlorine, muriatic acid and salt from the 'penny' pool store chain, but have never looked at the choices of CYA there.

2. Should I lower the pH first? I know that I have several issues going on, and need all of your expert advice with what my priorities are and the order of the steps involved. I do really well following clear, orderly directions!!!!!!!!!

Here is a photo I took in January. The pool still looks about the same, less the snowman! As I mentioned, I have no problems with water clarity. Even with the algae (until I brush, of course), the water has stayed sparkling.

The 2nd photo is how the pool looked when I bought my house in March, 2009.

Thank you all, in advance,

Alynn






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I am here: http://tapatalk.com/map.php?zdysv2
22,000 Gallon In Ground with CrystalStone (pebble) finish in Blue Ice
Auto Pilot Digital Nano SWG
Pentair 1.0 HP Pump
Hayward C1200 (120 S.Ft.) Cartridge Filter
Pentair Great White Automatic Pool Cleaner

 

[Isaac-1]

Straight CYA stabilizer usually comes as a powder which can be hard to disolve and takes up to a week to register on the test, so don't overdose. The general suggestion is to put it in an old sock and hang in front of a return line kneeding it every day or so until it disolves..

It is also made as a liquid which costs a good bit more,but most pool stores do not stock this.

CYA is also added to a pool as a byproduct of using stabilized dry chlorine products made with Dichlor or Trichlor, this often leads to extemely high CYA levels and over stabilization over time, this is why we generally do not suggest using these products except when needed for vacation maintenance, etc when you can't dose the pool daily with liquid chlorine.

 

[Butterfly]

First, lower the pH to about 7.2. This needs to be done ASAP.
When pH hits 7.8, lower it back to 7.2 again.
Over time this will also lower your TA.

Then add about 30 PPM CYA via sock method.

Having visible algae, I suggest you go to shock level FC of 10 at night for now.

Use liquid chlorine/bleach to shock.

Also, 10 FC would be a good starting FC for your OCLT.

You can purchase CYA/conditioner/stabilizer from any place that sells pool supplies.
Read the label. It should be at lease 96%ish cyanuric acid.

What is the CH level?

 

[Alynn]

Thank you both! I appreciate the quick responses.

One other question, and I know I read it somewhere on the forum, but can't locate it right now:

Is it safe to swim with the chlorine at shock levels? While I am shocking the pool this weekend I will also be working on some outdoor projects, and it sure would be nice to be able to cool off with a quick dip occasionally...

I will post back after the weekend.

Thank you again.....




---
I am here: http://tapatalk.com/map.php?clonu3
22,000 Gallon In Ground with CrystalStone (pebble) finish in Blue Ice
Auto Pilot Digital Nano SWG
Pentair 1.0 HP Pump
Hayward C1200 (120 S.Ft.) Cartridge Filter
Pentair Great White Automatic Pool Cleaner

 

[linen]

Is it safe to swim with the chlorine at shock levels? While I am shocking the pool this weekend I will also be working on some outdoor projects, and it sure would be nice to be able to cool off with a quick dip occasionally...

Our recommendation is that it is okay to swim in water up to the shock level for you cya concentration.

 

[Alynn]

Our recommendation is that it is okay to swim in water up to the shock level for you cya concentration.

Thanks!

I also noticed that using the pool calculator and the goal for CYA from Pool School for a SWCG, I need to raise my CYA to 70 from -0-. The calculator tells me to add 117 oz of dry CYA. Which is a little over 7 lbs. Can this be right? I was going to start with buying a 4 lb. container today and get started adding it. Do I need to buy 2?

And I see the recommendation is to use the old sock method, I've also read where I can add it to the skimmer a pound or 2 at a time. Is this OK, too?

I am also going to run the OFCLT tonight and then start the shock process tomorrow. I know I will need to......
Oh, first and foremost is adding the Muriatic Acid to bring the pH down to 7.2.

Any other advice is most certainly welcomed. I haven't had too many problems with the pool, other than some small algae spots every couple of weeks, but I don't want to fight algae all summer. I want to take care of it now and keep it maintained. Maintaining is time consuming, but not as bad as fighting algae.

Thanks again. This is a super forum!!!

 

[duraleigh]

The purpose of the OCLT is to either determine that you MIGHT need to shock or that the shock process is finished. If you know you are going to shock, there is no point in running it.

 

[linen]

I also noticed that using the pool calculator and the goal for CYA from Pool School for a SWCG, I need to raise my CYA to 70 from -0-. The calculator tells me to add 117 oz of dry CYA. Which is a little over 7 lbs. Can this be right? I was going to start with buying a 4 lb. container today and get started adding it. Do I need to buy 2?

First if you are doing/going to do the shocking process on your pool, only add enough cya to get to 30 ppm for now. That much will help protect your chlorine form the sun, while still keeping your minimum shocking FC level reasonable.

Could you add your pool details to your signiture. We need you pool volume to check your calculations.

And I see the recommendation is to use the old sock method, I've also read where I can add it to the skimmer a pound or 2 at a time. Is this OK, too?

As you are shocking you may need to backflush the filter numerous times, so you would loose any cya in the filter. That is why I prefer sock in front of the return. What kind of filter do you have?

I haven't had too many problems with the pool, other than some small algae spots every couple of weeks, but I don't want to fight algae all summer. I want to take care of it now and keep it maintained.

Good idea, make sure you follow the shocking process closely.

Maintaining is time consuming, but not as bad as fighting algae.

This will be quite easy to do with the help of this site. Once you have control of your pool, and you know the basic chemistry, it is really easy to maintian and takes very little time.

 

[Alynn]

Thanks for the great advice! I have added my signature, as well. I had it added from TapTalk, but it doesn't show up if I'm on the PC....

I will start with the 4 lb. container of CYA and use the old sock method. With 3 teenaged boys around the house, there are plenty of errant socks to use!

I will post my overnight FC test in the morning, and start lowering the pH and then shock, shock, shock!

Thanks Again!

 

[linen]

Thanks for the great advice! I have added my signature, as well. I had it added from TapTalk, but it doesn't show up if I'm on the PC....

Ohh...you are right, I thought I had seen your pool information before. Sorry about that.

I will start with the 4 lb. container of CYA and use the old sock method. With 3 teenaged boys around the house, there are plenty of errant socks to use!

Giving it a squeeze whenever you go by it will speed up getting it dissolved into the pool water.

I will post my overnight FC test in the morning, and start lowering the pH and then shock, shock, shock!

Post your CC level as well. Good luck!

 

[Alynn]

Decided to skip the overnight test and go straight to shocking...

Test Results before starting
6:30 p.m.
FC: 1.0. - Added 320 oz. of 10.5% liquid chlorine
CC: 0.5
PH: 8.2. - Added 1 gal. Muriatic acid


Test - 8:15 p.m.
FC: - 20.5
CC - 1.0
Ph. - 7.2

Test - 10:00 p.m.
FC: - 23.5
CC. - 0.5


I'm not real sure why the FC went up, but it it could be that i didn't wait long enough to test after the first addition of chlorine.

I wasn't sure what my shock level should be, as my CYA was -0- and -0- wasn't listed on the chart.

Thoughts?

I have also added 4 lbs of CYA ( using the sock tied in front of the return method). I divided it up and have 2 socks going at 2 different returns.

I will post an update in the morning. If you see that there is something wrong so far, please comment....

Thanks!




22,000 Gallon In Ground with CrystalStone (pebble) finish in Blue Ice
Pool Pilot Digital Nano SWG
Pentair 1.0 HP Pump
Hayward C1200 (120 S.Ft.) Cartridge Filter
Pentair Great White Automatic Pool Cleaner

 

[Butterfly]

Shock level for zero CYA is FC 10.

 

[Alynn]

Butterfly:

Have I messed things up starting with such a high shock level? Should I do something to change it?

Thanks for letting me know. I should have tried to find out what it should have been, or asked.I hope I haven't royally messed up,and me just starting out. :-(

Alynn

 

[linen]

Have I messed things up starting with such a high shock level? Should I do something to change it?

Nah, you should be okay, just let it come down closer to ten. You will use a lot of your chlorine at the beginning of the shock process, so it doesn't hurt to overdose a little.

 

[Alynn]

Good Morning, All!!!

Morning Test Results Are In! (And I'm a little confused!)

Sat. 5-12-12
FC. - 26
CC. - .5
pH. - 7.2

Does anyone have any ideas on why my FC is going UP?

And does running my SWCG during the shock process make a difference? I know that for an OFCLT you turn it off, but it didn't say anything about turning it off for the shock process in Pool School.

Also, it looks like all of my CYA has dissolved from my sock applicators.. I believe that i've read that the level may not show up on testing for a week or so.. Should I even test for CYA yet?

I really appreciate you all that have the knowledge and experience and take the time to help those of us that are just starting out or have issues we can't resolve!

Alynn


22,000 Gallon In Ground with CrystalStone (pebble) finish in Blue Ice
Pool Pilot Digital Nano SWG
Pentair 1.0 HP Pump
Hayward C1200 (120 S.Ft.) Cartridge Filter
Pentair Great White Automatic Pool Cleaner

 

[duraleigh]

Good morning,

Running your SWG is why your FC is going up. It is a good idea to turn it off while shocking (but not mandatory) be cause it causes the confusion you have experienced.

Yes, I see no reason to test your CYA until almost a week has passed. However, for calculating purposes, you should assume it is all in there even though you haven't tested.

Everything you post sounds like you are headed down a good path....keep us posted.

 

[Alynn]

Thanks. I will turn it off and re-test about an hour after.

Do I run an OFCLT tonight to determine the end of the shock process?

Alynn

 

[Butterfly]

Thanks. I will turn it off and re-test about an hour after.

Do I run an OFCLT tonight to determine the end of the shock process?

Alynn

Yes, that is part of the process: see red lines in my sig

 

[Alynn]

Thanks so much for your quick responses!!

 

[Alynn]

Just retested.... Went from:

12:45 p.m.
FC. - 20
CC. -.5

To

3:00p.m.
FC. - 15.5
CC. - -0-

Guess I'm not done. I will wait til the FC level drops below 10, then bring it back to 10, and maintain 10 til I can pass the overnight test.

One saving grace is the pool looks awesome and it still swim-able!