Solar Plumbing Confusion, Questions

The panels are on racks with the "Out" end of the rack elevated 6 inches. I raised it primarily to help rain water not pool on the panels. Originally the rack design was a flat frame with cross members and a center beam. We had a hard rain and they sagged down into the frame because of the weight of the water on top. I hated to eat the cost but went back and added 1/4 inch plywood to the top of each frame. I water sealed it for some protection. So, some water in the tubes will drain down.

I'm very close to buying all of the unions, elbows, etc to plumb it all up. Sch 40 of course. I wanted to post one more diagram and see if this one is better, worse, or equal to the last one I posted. It is less pipe and fittings but I'm not sure which one is the most efficient for heat and flow.

I put the VRV on the PVC pipe instead of the panel in the diagram. Maybe that doesn't change anything.

Thank you guys for the great advice. The plan is coming together well because of your input.

[attachment=2:pd5in355]Marked panels 2.jpg[/attachment:pd5in355]
[attachment=1:pd5in355]Panels 1.JPG[/attachment:pd5in355]
[attachment=0:pd5in355]Panels 4.JPG[/attachment:pd5in355]
 

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Is there a reason you are not connecting the headers directly to each other (or a short PVC runs between them) instead of using all the tees?

Are the headers a smaller diameter than the pipe so you do not want all the water going through the headers?

That vrv locale makes more sense I think.

Posted with Tapatalk ... sorry if I sound short ... hate typing on phone :)
 
Clearly I didn't understand parallel vs serial.

I don't mind connecting header to header. It looks like there are 2 options for me.

1) Buy a bunch of barbed connections, hose, and SS clamps. My panels came with elbow barbed connections (8). To connect 4 panels header to header I would need 14 barbed connections (12 male threaded, and 2 solvent connect). Also, 4 rubber couplers/hose, and 26 SS clamps. If i used the 8 that I have and bought more of the same then I would need to
bend the rubber hose into a U shape to slip on each end. Or I could buy all straight barbed connections = $. I've never been too sure about those hose connections anyway.

2) I could run header to header and use a union between each. I would need 8 unions, 12 male threaded solvent connect fittings, and a few other elbows. So between each header would be a threaded connection to panel on left which is glued to a short run of PVC, then a union in the middle, and repeat the same parts to the other side.

I like the second option. The weakest point between each panel is just the one union, and they are pretty solid. It can be easily disconnected and will look nice and clean. Also all will be SCH 40. Does any of this need to be CPVC?

Of course, here is a new diagram. This is with the panel valves at the bottom open.

[attachment=0:2z605y5n]Marked panels 3.jpg[/attachment:2z605y5n]
 

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+1 on the 2nd option. Although all the unions will be a little expensive, it will be nice and flexible for future needs.

Posted with Tapatalk ... sorry if I sound short ... hate typing on phone :)
 

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Does it friction into PVC, and with enough holding power?

In my last diagram where I show the location of the VRV, I could put in a tee instead of an elbow, and then just push the valve into the top of the tee.

Or, if adding a tee is the way to go, then maybe I'm better adding it midway down that run with the valve not getting the direct water hit. If that thing pops out then there could be some serious water loss and pump burn up.
 
That VRV looks WAY different than the one I just got. I agree it looks like it should go in a rubber hose and clamped ... not sure shoving it in a PVC fitting is going to work. Having it come off would not be good.
 
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