How does anti-freeze affect pool water?

plucky71

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LifeTime Supporter
Apr 18, 2010
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Michigan
How does anti-freeze affect pool water?

When I winterized I used 6 gallons of RV antifreeze. Upon opening I removed some of it, but that leaves at least a few gallons in the system. After shocking for two weeks I still get a faint odor of the antifreeze. The pool is crystal clear and the FC is holding overnight. The Only problem is the CC level is staying at 2.0.

Would the RV antifreeze cause the CC level to be high? Should I try harder to remove more antifreeze before opening next time? Would it be better to use pool antifreeze in the future?
 
I've never noticed any effect or odor. I start the pump the first time with the filter valve on waste, which should pump all of the antifreeze out the waste line.
 
Pool antifreeze and RV-antifreeze are the same thing. Automotive anti-freeze is something else entirely. It is fine to get some pool/RV antifreeze in the pool, it won't have any lasting effect. It is extremely bad to get automotive antifreeze in the pool.
 
If you compare 'RV' antifreeze from the farm supply/home improvement store, and 'pool' antifreeze from the pool store, the ingredients are the same. I get the same odor right after I unscrew the winterizing plugs and it floods out, but once the pump is up and running and filter filtering, it goes away pretty quickly.

The directions on some antifreeze jugs will tell you to get rid of the antifreeze in the plumbing, but not completely necessary, as it's biodegradable.

Edit - Jason beat me to it.
 
I did use di-chlor to shock and stabilize. Would that affect CC? Here is a quote from pool school-Potassium monopersulfate (a common non-chlorine shock) will often show up on tests as CC. There is a special reagent you can get to neutralize the potassium monopersulfate so you can get a true CC reading.
 
plucky71 said:
I did use di-chlor to shock and stabilize. Would that affect CC? Here is a quote from pool school-Potassium monopersulfate (a common non-chlorine shock) will often show up on tests as CC. There is a special reagent you can get to neutralize the potassium monopersulfate so you can get a true CC reading.

The antifreeze isn't going to affect the CC. Dichlor is stabilized chlorine, and doesn't have the issues that non-chlorine shock can have on test results.
 
I know this is an older post, but figured a good place to keep this going.

So my PB (who still resists the BBB Method) told me that I MUST USE A SPECIAL Calcium Chloride based antifreeze instead of the normal "PINK" stuff. The PINK stuff is 100 percent propylene glycol, my PB says they really contain a boat load of Phosphates and that will bla bla bla to my water. And this SPECIAL STUFF he has is 3X more but of course contains no phosphates and is calcium chloride based.

What do you all think of this ?
 
If it is 100% Propylene glycol (C3H8O2), it is not a phosphate. Phosphates contain Phosphorus (P) in combination with oxygen and other elements. However, I believe many consumer propylene glycol anti-freezes (the "pink stuff") contain a small amount (typically <1%) of dipotassium phosphate in them for corrosion reasons (iirc). Still not enough to worry about in a pool, especially with proper chlorine levels.
 

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Ok, so I understand that Phosphates really don't CAUSE Algae, but it seems to me it might make sense to try and LIMIT any additional of Phosphates (just because). Or is that tiny amount of dipotassium so insignificant that is just doesn't matter. Trying to see if the extra $3 a gallon x 30 gallons is worth it.
 
toofast said:
Ok, so I understand that Phosphates really don't CAUSE Algae, but it seems to me it might make sense to try and LIMIT any additional of Phosphates (just because). Or is that tiny amount of dipotassium so insignificant that is just doesn't matter. Trying to see if the extra $3 a gallon x 30 gallons is worth it.


Just wondering how do you use 30 gallons of antifreeze? Just curious. BTW, I had no problems this year with opening and I used the pink stuff.
 
plucky71 said:
toofast said:
Ok, so I understand that Phosphates really don't CAUSE Algae, but it seems to me it might make sense to try and LIMIT any additional of Phosphates (just because). Or is that tiny amount of dipotassium so insignificant that is just doesn't matter. Trying to see if the extra $3 a gallon x 30 gallons is worth it.


Just wondering how do you use 30 gallons of antifreeze? Just curious. BTW, I had no problems this year with opening and I used the pink stuff.

Yeah, I don't know either....

My PB told me I need about 2 - 3 gallons for each "line", plus a bit more for the skimmer. I have all independent lines...1 skimmer, 2 drains, 6 spa jets, 3 returns, 1 auto fill,

Totals 13 lines x 2 = 26 gallons plus a bit more. So he guessed 30. As a side note, is he insane ?
 
By the way - this is the MDS from my pink stuff, don't see any Phosphates - unless it is in the additives.

Hazardous Component* Approximate Composition OSHA Permissible Exposure Limit** NIOSH REL ACGIH Threshold Limit Value IDLH (NIOSH)
Propylene Glycol
CAS 57-55-6
Glycerin
CAS# 56-81-5
Additives
CAS# NA
ETHANOL
CAS# 64-17-5 UN 1770
METHANOL
CAS 67-56-1 UN 1230
ETHYLENE GLYCOL
BUTYL ETHER
(BUTYL CELLOSOLVE)
CAS 111-76-2
 
If you blow out the lines correctly, you dont need to refill them all the way up with antifreeze.

I only use 4 gals. In the skimmer lines and skimmer boxes only.

I don't worry about the main drain because I blow most of the water out and the rest that's left in there is 8 ft deep.

The skimmer lines get blown and a gallon in each side, the skimmer lines connect to each other anyway.

Then 1/2 gal in each skimmer box, then drop a gallon jug with 1/4 gal antifreeze in it for ice expansion in each skimmer.
 
I'd love to know what the 'special' CaCl anti-freeze formula is. I (and many northern tractor owners) use a 'special' CaCl mix in our large rear tractor tires to add weight when snow plowing or doing other work. The formula is very complex: Add 3.5 lbs of CaCl for each gallon of water for freeze protection to -52°F, slush-free to -12°F. http://firestoneag.spinutech.com/webres/File/Tire-Info/TireInfo-Hydroinflation.pdfI have no idea what else you could add, but if there were something, farmers/tractor owners would know about it. I have never heard of anything and I've been running 'loaded' tires for 45 years.

Thing is, this mix is aggressively corrosive to anything metal. Probably not a problem, but something to keep in mind. You could probably use a weaker solution for pools since added weight is not of interest. Ag CaCl goes for $20/80lb. bag, probably enough for 30 gal. right there in most climates. Maybe he uses expensive water. I bet that PB makes out like a bandit.

I never use anti-freeze in my pool myself, and I've been doing this a long time.
 
If I remember correctly, the rv antifreeze (pink) turns to lactic acid in the body if ingested. Thats why its non toxic. Lactic acid is what builds up in the muscles when you work them out and they feel tired. If you get some in the pool (which would have to be quite a bit) then in your mouth you would feel awful tired but not die. The green antifreeze on the other hand would poison you.
 
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