Just got the pump running

Apr 25, 2012
19
Rochester, IN
Just got the pump running on new ag pool. Water has been in for 10 days. Starting the shock process now. These are the current readings after 2 pounds of super shock over the last 4 hrs.

FC = tf100 test kit showed it off the chart
TA = 300
CYA = ? test strips showed 40-50. TF100 showed 0. I could still see black dot when tube was full to top. Is it a fact that I will be looking thru clear water when doing the cya test?
PH = 7.8 using tf100

When I punched the TA in the calculator it did not calculate for a now of 300 and target of 100, although it did calculate for a now of 100 and target of 300. I need to bring the ta down, correct?
Suggestions?
 
Ok, first off tell us what is in "super shock" depending on the brand it could be Di-Chlor, Cal-Hypo or Tri-Chlor, next have you done anything to add CYA to the water?, CYA is a pool adative, if you use the powder form it can take a week or more to show up on the test, and the only practical way of lowering it is through water replacement or RO treatment

Next I think you need to go back and read the TF instructions, there are 2 chlorine tests included the little one in the blue package that reads up to 5 ppm for daily quick checks, and the detailed FAS-DPD test where you count the number of drops until there is a color change. On the FAS-DPD it should count high enough for any sane chlorine level.

The CYA test is easy it is fill the shaker bottle up to the bottom of the label with water then to the top of the label with R-0013 shake sit for 30 seconds shake again, pour in see if dot goes away, if you can still see the dot your are below 20PPM on CYA. Best readings are done outdoors with sun at your back.

Ike
 
Each 1 pound bag of Super Shock contains 73% calcium hypochlorite and 27% other ingredients. The water is fresh from the tap (11 days ago). I haven't added any thing but approx 3 gallons of bleach early last week and then the 2 pounds of shock on Sat.
I am a little confused on the sequence of what targets to hit. Is it cya first, then fc, ph, ta or some other sequence?
Thanks
 
The sequence somewhat depends on your current situation

A fresh fill from empty pool is one thing, however I don't think that is the situaiton we have here anymore, after leaving it for 10 days with almost no chlorine in the water there is a fair chance things have started to grow in the water (depending on a number of factors like sunlight exposure, temperature, etc.). Don't worry though, we can get you back on track, we just need a bit more information:

1, how does the water look?

2, how are you testing the water? You really need a good drop based test kit like the Taylor K-2006 or the TFTestkits TF-100 (I use the TF-100 it costs a little more, but you get a better value for your money)

3, put a couple of gallons of bleach in the pool right away, just to hold things until we get you a plan of action going, it may not be enough to help, but it will likely keep things from getting worse for a few hours.

4, Don't use any more of the Cal-Hypo until we know the Calcium Hardness of your water, it may be fine or it may not, the only way to lower calcium hardness is through water replacement or reverse osmosis treatment.

Ike
 
Thanks Isaac,
Water looks slightly murky. 4ft deep pool and I can see the bottom clearly. I am using the tf100 test kit. Here are my current readings.
fc=19
ph=8.2
ta=580
cya=0
ch=130

I will add bleach within the hour. Thanks for your help
Brian
 
Your TA is either really high or way dangerously high depending on which set of results are correct. That is going to drive the PH up, which can interfere with shocking. However you shouldn't trust the PH test when FC is above 15.

I suggest lowering the PH some regardless, and lowering it to 7.2 if you have a moment when the FC level is below 15 (so you can trust the PH test and double check that the PH came out where you want it).

It would also be a good idea to get some CYA into the water. I suggest raising CYA by 30 for now, and then fine tuning the final level after the water is all cleared up.

When doing the TA test, try wiping the dropper tip with a damp tissue before you start and after every five or so drops. Static electricity can sometimes buildup on the dropper tip, causing false higher than actual readings. The dame tissue gets rid of any static charge.
 
Ok, something seems wrong here, but as Dave said don't add anymore bleach if you really have it at FC of 19, you do need to get your CYA up, just be aware that after adding CYA it can take a week or more to show up on tests.

How confident are you in your test result numbers?

I ask because according to poolcalculator it would take about 2.5 pounds of 73% (the strongest type) of cal-hypo to reach an FC of 19 from a starting point of 0 (which I would assume you were at a week or so after adding a couple of gallons of bleach) from what you said you added 2 pounds yesterday.

Ike
 
bsimo57 said:
Just got the pump running on new ag pool. Water has been in for 10 days. Starting the shock process now. These are the current readings after 2 pounds of super shock over the last 4 hrs.

FC = tf100 test kit showed it off the chart
TA = 300
CYA = ? test strips showed 40-50. TF100 showed 0. I could still see black dot when tube was full to top. Is it a fact that I will be looking thru clear water when doing the cya test?
PH = 7.8 using tf100

When I punched the TA in the calculator it did not calculate for a now of 300 and target of 100, although it did calculate for a now of 100 and target of 300. I need to bring the ta down, correct?
Suggestions?

when you do the CYA test it will not be clear, the water will be cloudy. You will in fact not be able to see the dot at all when the mixture gets to the right level.
 

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Readings as of noon today.
ph = 7
fc = 6.5
ta = 225
cc = 1.5
cya = 0 to 5 still not showing up with test. I hung 2 pounds of stabilizer at the return around 5pm yesterday.

Now that the ph is down do I raise the fc to 20 or do I need to wait for the cya to get up to goal?
 
Now that the ph is down do I raise the fc to 20 or do I need to wait for the cya to get up to goal?
Even though it won't show up on the test for as long as a week, you can assume your CYA is effective 24 hours after you have placed it in the pool so, ideally, you should start the high FC at 5:00 this evening.
 
bsimo57 said:
Readings as of noon today.
ph = 7
fc = 6.5
ta = 225
cc = 1.5
cya = 0 to 5 still not showing up with test. I hung 2 pounds of stabilizer at the return around 5pm yesterday.

Now that the ph is down do I raise the fc to 20 or do I need to wait for the cya to get up to goal?

On another forum they debated whether stabilizer in the sock really makes any difference vs just pouring it into the skimmer. Some people said it the sock was misinformation that keeps getting propagated. I ended up asking my PB and he said pouring it into the skimmer is fine, just realize that you cant wash your filter for a week after you do that (which is one reason for using the sock). I think stabilizer in a sock next to a return is too slow. My stabilizer peaked at 24 hours.

The instructions on the bucket itself just said to broadcast it on the surface of the pool. My PB said you could do that, but then you have granules on the bottom of your pool for 24 hours.
 
Good points. It took around 36 hours to dissolve 2 pounds of stabilizer in the sock. Siince it's still a little cool to swim the amount of time was ok. If I need more I'll probably go the skimmer route. The water is very clear with these readings.

PH-7.2
TA-250
FC-17.5 and holding (24hrs)
CC-0
Cya <20 at full tube the water was starting to get cloudy

Do I need to add additional stabilizer or wait a few days and check again? When do I turn on the chlorinator?
Thanks

Brian
 
bsimo57 said:
Good points. It took around 36 hours to dissolve 2 pounds of stabilizer in the sock. Siince it's still a little cool to swim the amount of time was ok. If I need more I'll probably go the skimmer route. The water is very clear with these readings.

PH-7.2
TA-250
FC-17.5 and holding (24hrs)
CC-0
Cya <20 at full tube the water was starting to get cloudy

Do I need to add additional stabilizer or wait a few days and check again? When do I turn on the chlorinator?
Thanks

Brian

more, you want at least 30. For my 17k gallon pool I used 6 pounds. Did you use the pool calculator?
 
Current readings.
PH 7.8
FC 11 and dropping approx 1.5 per day
CC 0
TC 11
CYA 25+
TA 250
CH 100

I have been areating for 48 hours. The ta has been holding @ 225-250. The ph has been rising approx .3 every 12 hrs. and I have been taking it down to 7 then letting it get to 7.6.
Any suggestions on the TA?
Thanks
 
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