testing new fill

[boston2austin]

Just filled the pool yesterday and I am using my TFP testing kit.

I cant seem to get a CH reading. I have tested the pool water and tap water using my speed stir and I can't get the sample to turn blue. I have used over a hundred drops in each sample. At this rate I will run out of reagent in a couple more tests. Definitely feels as though I am missing something or doing it wrong.

Also, the pH is way high (>8). I have added the specified amount of MA several times. The pH hasn't budged after 3 doses. How often should I be adding MA and how soon should I expect it to have effect?

 

[jblizzle]

Not sure about the CH issue.

You should be able to read the affect of adding acid within an hour of circulation. How much are you adding (what is the specified amount?)?
What is your TA as that is related to the pH?

Is this a brand new pool? The builder should have provided instructions on the levels they want you to maintain at the beginning. The new plaster can cause a lot of pH rise.

 

[Bama Rambler]

If the pH is over 8, it may be a good bit over 8 so it'll take a good bit of acid to see it move. Keep adding and testing it about every hour until it comes into range.

As for the CH, you can use a 10 ml sample where each drop counts as 25 ppm.

Heres a quote from the 'testing instructions on one page' topic.
"Calcium Hardness Test
Use quantities in [brackets] if CH is very high (>400) and you have trouble getting a clear transition to the blue endpoint.

1) Rinse and fill sample tube to 25ml [10ml] mark.
2) Add 20 drops [10 drops] R-0010; swirl to mix.
3) Add 5 drops [3 drops] R-0011L; swirl to mix. Solution turns red to indicate calcium is present.
4) Add R-0012 one drop at a time, swirl to mix after each drop. Repeat until color changes to blue (and stops changing).
5) The last drop that caused a change is the drop count. Multiply #drops by 10 [25] to get CH."

There are also times when the endpoint isn't blue from metal interference and what you're looking for is a change regardless if it's blue or not.

 

[boston2austin]

Yes this is a brand new pool. And I am a pool newbie.

After 4 doses of about 28 oz of MA the pH popped and is now in range. I am anxious to give y'all the results of my tests if I could actually get them for you.

Thanks for the 10 ml sample instruction, I will use it this morning.

Now, about that darn CYA measurement. Am I looking for the black dot to completely disappear or to get obscured by a grey dot. I know this is a strange question, but I want to get it right. At start up I am using Trichlor, but I want to switch to bleach ASAP, or when the time is right

 

[Bama Rambler]

The black dot should be like it was never there. It should be completely obscured.

 

[boston2austin]

Thank-you, Dave. I found the more extensive instructions posted here by Jason. they were a lot of help, there is a link to Taylor with pictures.

Not sure whether or not I should start a new post, but here are my numbers after my "start-up" Procedures.

Temp 78
TC 3
FC 3
CC 0
pH 7.8
TA 60-70
CH "55" I still cannot get this reading from my kit. I have used all of the methods posted, and it NEVER turns blue. This measurement is from the pool store. I am suspect of the result because my water is very hard here, but I just cannot get this to read.
CYA 0

Had a little CC yesterday, but it seems to be gone.

Currently I am using the Trichlor, and supplementing with bleach. i am waiting for the CYA to show until I switch to bleach altogether.

A question about the start up. the manufacturer of the CLI Quartz product indicated that I should have added a "measurable sequestering agent" to 15-20ppm. No one at the pool store had any idea what that was, and my PB did not indicate anything about it in the start up.

So, should I add the the baking soda, calcium chloride and stabilizer that the pool calculator indicates?

 

[duraleigh]

BTA,

Check your PM's in the upper left corner of your screen. :lol: