New House--SWG Not Working

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spappas

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Apr 30, 2012
14
My wife and I recently purchased our house last year with a built-in pool/spa that is approximately 12,000 gallons. After using chlorine all last summer, we decided to try to get the SWG running (which was already installed).

After plugging everything in and turning it on, I had a steady "no flow" light, so I replaced the flow sensor. After replacing the flow sensor, it seemed to be working for about a day. My salt reading was at 2600 (which may or may not have been correct). I proceeded to adding 40 lbs. of pool salt to start working towards 3200. However, yesterday, when I turned the pump on to check the status, the salt reading was 300 and the "inspect cell" light was on.

Here are the current readings:

Power light: "ON"
Generating: "OFF"

Low Salt: "ON"
Inspect Cell: "ON"

Salt: 100 (down from 300 yesterday)
Temp: 77
Voltage: 31.9
Current: 0.00
Output: 19P
Instant Salinity: - 0
Product: AL - 0
Version: r1.10

I have taken apart the salt cell and cleaned it with a muriatic acid mix, and still have the same result. I have also borrowed a relatively new cell from a neighbor with the exact same model and installed it with the same result.

The salt cell is a T-Cell-15 and an Aqua Rite generation system.

Any ideas???

Thanks in advance!
 
:wave: Welcome :wave:

First I have to recommend that you get a salt reading from a source other than your aquarite ... either buy your own kit or have a pool store give you their opinion of your salt level. Once you are 100% sure the salt is in the appropriate range you can then focus on the electronics.

It is odd that you had 2 cells seem to indicate a problem since they are what usually fail. That does seem to lean toward something in the controller being the problem.

Can you try your cell on your neighbors pool and see if it works over there? You can also have the pool store test the cell while you are getting your salt level tested.
 
I took the old cell to the nearby pool store and diagnostics revealed that the old cell is bad. Also, with the salt content being so low, I have added about 200lbs of salt to try to get the water balance where it should be by the time the new salt cell arrives.

I will test this out and update with the results. Thanks jblizzle.
 
So hear is an update...

I have since added 280 lbs of salt, a new salt cell, and new sensor. According to the pool store the salt level is at 3200ppm based on a water sample, while the SWG itself is saying that the water is only at 2600ppm and thus causing the "Low Salt" and "Check Cell" lights to flash. However, the "Generating" light is now illuminated and it appears to be making chlorine (I should know in a few days).

My question is why would there be a discrepancy between the store's salt test and my SWG with a new sensor and new salt cell--both of which appear to be working fine (other than this issue)?

Any ideas??
 
All of the salt tests are +-400 at best, and often worse than that. It is not at all surprising that the SWG and the pool store disagree. I suggest adding a little more salt, so the SWG is happy and not worrying about it.
 
After about 6 weeks, the system doesn't seem to be generating any chlorine. I have steadily increased from week to week, and it has been at superchlorinate for 2 weeks now, and the chlorine is still showing nothing.

The sensor and chlorine generator appear to be working alright, and there aren't any reported errors on the monitor. The salt level is between 3000 and 3200. It is a brand new sensor and brand new salt cell.

Any ideas?
 
The most likely possibility is that the SWG is working just fine, but something about your pool is using up all of the chlorine more quickly than the SWG can produce it.

If you post a complete set of water test results the chances are good that we will be able to spot the issue.
 
New Issue:

I had ended up adding chlorine, so I was waiting a week to get more accurate water test results for posting. I went out to check on the system, and the SWG now is not showing anything on the LCD and it doesn't appear to be on at all.

I checked breakers and it is on the same circuit as the pool pump--which is running fine. Did the box just finally go out, or is there something I need to do to turn the system back on?

Thanks.
 
I ended up changing out the limiter, which didn't fix the problem. After that, I found the fuse which was broken. After replacing the fuse, everything seems to be working alright. The LCD is back on and I am superchlorinating now to see if the SWG is working.
 

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FC-0
CC-0
CYA-80
TA-170
CH-200
pH-7.8 (was 8.0+ a few days before I added acid)
Salt- 3100

The diagnostics display shows this info:
Temp: 78
Voltage: 25.5
Current: 5.97
Desired Output: 40% (however, I have had it set to superchlorinate, which adjusts to 100%)
Instant Salinity: -3000
Product: AL-0
Version: r1.10
Salt Display: 2900

Thanks!
 
Everything you wrote seems to indicate the SWG is functioning, but something is clearly consuming all the FC quickly. You should be using bleach to help boost the FC levels and keep them in the recommended range while sorting out the SWG.

Have you tried to take a sample of water directly from a return to see if FC is showing up?
 
How much bleach do you think I should use? I have about a 12k gallon pool.

I will get a water test from the return asap. I just had a connector burst from the pump to the filter and it flooded the side yard. As soon as i get that fixed, I will test the water and post the results.

...not having much luck with this pool. I appreciate the help!
 
With a CYA of 80ppm, I would keep the FC above 6ppm at all times using bleach until the SWG is able to take over (then the recommended minimum is 4ppm).

For a 12k gallon pool, 1 gallon of 6% bleach will raise your FC by ~5ppm. So, I would start with 2 gallons and then be testing to keep it above 5ppm.

If the SWG is working and just not able to keep up due to algae growth in the pool, then you need to go through the shock process using bleach until you pass the 3 tests. Then you can get your SWG to take over.
 
Yes!!!

You have to keep above the minimum to avoid the algae growing. Since you are reading 0 chlorine and the SWG appears to be working, there must be something consuming it even though it is not visible.

If you want to test for something in the pool, with the SWG off, raise the FC up and perform the OCLT (see Pool School). If the FC drops more than 1ppm overnight, there is something living in your pool and you should then go through the shock process.
 
Ok, I got the bleach today. Do I need to run the pump to perform the OCLT? I don't think it will be fixed until Thursday, so should I wait until it is fixed, or is it worth testing prior?

Thanks!
 
Add some bleach and then brush really well to mix it in. If you do not, algae may take over before the pump is fixed.

Best to do the OCLT with the pump running.

Posted with Tapatalk ... sorry if I sound short ... hate typing on phone ;)
 
Leak is fixed. Pump is running. I added 2 gallons of 6% chlorine. Doing the OCLT test tomorrow night. In the meantime, I just hooked up the new PCB board to test it out and there is a steady humming noise coming from the SWG box now. It appears to be a vibration between the LCD board and the cover board, but this is definitely not something that happened with the old board. Any ideas?

Thanks in advance!
 

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