Swampy Chem Q

Apr 4, 2012
25
Once again, I am Miss Confusion. After studying the "Swamp to Oasis" article for the millionth time, I'm still a little baffled. I get that the PH should be leveled first, and FC should be at "shock" or "algae shock" levels. And if CYA is below 20ppm, I should add 20ppm. What about the other chems? Am I supposed to wait until the algae is gone to worry about them? And if so, how long do I wait to get them straight? Hopefully beginning "shock & awe" process Monday, so need help quickly!! :roll:
 
First thing is most important.....share you test results. Make sure you have your own test kit and are ready to use it often. :D

Next off.....
1. Get your PH level around 7.2 before shocking the pool. After you're at that level ignore till you are completed.
2. Get your CYA level to 30 PPM. If you are below this then you will need to add enough CYA to raise your level to around this point. If you're above this then it will just affect your shock level.
3. Add enough chlorine you reach your shock level. With a CYA level of 30 it will be a FC level of 13. No need to raise it up to "Mustard Algae Shock" as there's no signs at this point you have this problem.
4. Once you complete all 3 criteria in the shocking process, then we'll work on all other levels. :D Not sure what "other chems" you are wondering about....but beyond bleach there's not many other's you'll need.

Do you have a current photo of your pool....and current test results??
 
piglitlover said:
Once again, I am Miss Confusion. After studying the "Swamp to Oasis" article for the millionth time, I'm still a little baffled. I get that the PH should be leveled first, and FC should be at "shock" or "algae shock" levels. And if CYA is below 20ppm, I should add 20ppm. What about the other chems? Am I supposed to wait until the algae is gone to worry about them? And if so, how long do I wait to get them straight? Hopefully beginning "shock & awe" process Monday, so need help quickly!! :roll:
There are no other chemicals. Not yet.

You use Muriatic acid to lower pH, Borax or Soda Ash to raise it. Get pH right then ignore it.
CYA gets added then ignored for at least a week. Once you figure out how much to add, add it, then assume it's there.
FC is the one you want to watch. If your pool is green or black, you'll be using it at alarming rates. But maintaining it at the shock level for your calculated CYA level is the key to clearing the pool. You may need to check and add hourly.

Once the water is clear, CC is less than .5, and you hold FC overnight, then you can run a full battery of tests and fine-tune the water.
 
Sorry, no pics, but trust me...it is a swamp! Even has little buggy things in it. AAACCCKKK!! Havn't tested as the pool is not totally filled yet. Was going to start process Monday. So, I can't start shocking until after CYA has dissolved? Article said that would take a week...geesh. Sorry I am so pool illiterate. :oops:
 
I am also new to this forum and rehabbing a true foreclosure swamp. I think I've seen elsewhere reference to starting shocking before adding cya -- I know I did, just to start knocking down the smell enough to even work on the pool, which had a rancid, anaerobic smell on opening. I am now about to add a little cya b/c mine is below 20. I am also working semi blind while waiting for my test kit to arrive. I think the working theory is that it's all a moving target until you have a firm lock on what's in there, so testing now would be useful because I believe you need an effective TA level to get true reads on the ph, and that for shock to work, you also want the ph to be more or less stable. The cya, as far as I can tell, is germane to know what FC target to hit in order to be in true shock mode and sustain it.

Again, the caveat is that I'm a total newbie myself, so hopefully someone with adequate experience will confirm, correct or clarify (pun intended.) however, since I'm a few steps further along on my swamp, I'm happy to share whatever errors or triumphs I encounter along the way ;) best wishes in your reclaimation!
 
You may begin shocking while the CYA is dissolving. Put the granulated CYA in an old sock and knot the open end. Hang the sock in front of a return and keep the pump going 24/7. After the sock has been in the pool a couple of hours you can give it 2 or 3 good squeezes several times a day to help the dissolved CYA transfer into the water. It may take several days for the CYA to completely dissolve, and may take a couple of days more to register on a test. When you add the CYA assume it is active even though it is still in the sock dissolving.

Scoop out any leaves and debris from the bottom of the pool. Getting as much of the junk out as you can will speed up the process. Go ahead and test the water and post the results here and we will help you get started.
 
Hi Swampwoman, I have added my comments inside your post.

Swampwoman said:
I am also new to this forum and rehabbing a true foreclosure swamp. I think I've seen elsewhere reference to starting shocking before adding cya -- I know I did, just to start knocking down the smell enough to even work on the pool, which had a rancid, anaerobic smell on opening. I am now about to add a little cya b/c mine is below 20. I am also working semi blind while waiting for my test kit to arrive. I think the working theory is that it's all a moving target until you have a firm lock on what's in there, so testing now would be useful because I believe you need an effective TA level to get true reads on the ph, and that for shock to work, you also want the ph to be more or less stable. Adjusting TA affects the pH level but it is not nessesary to adjust TA before shocking. You do want the pH to be between 7.2-7.5 before you begin the shock process as high levels of FC (>10 ppm) will cause a temporary rise in pH. When the shock process is complete and the FC has fallen into the normal operating range, the pH will drop back to pre-shock levels.The cya, as far as I can tell, is germane to know what FC target to hit in order to be in true shock mode and sustain it. This is correct. It is important to know the CYA level prior to beginning the shock process. If the CYA is over 50 it is best to drop it into the 20-50 range by doing a partial drain and refill. If the CYA is 0-20 it is best to raise it to 20 during the shock process and then raise it to the recommended level of 30-50 (70 if you use a SWG) after the shock process is completed.

Again, the caveat is that I'm a total newbie myself, so hopefully someone with adequate experience will confirm, correct or clarify (pun intended.) however, since I'm a few steps further along on my swamp, I'm happy to share whatever errors or triumphs I encounter along the way ;) best wishes in your reclaimation!
 
The CYA starts "working" as soon as its dissolved, however it takes up to a week to show up in a test. Do as mentioned before and use an old sock. Be cautious however if you're going with a "zero" reading as it was once there. Have you had this tested yet??

As the other member mentioned, shocking without a good kit is shooting blind. A few jugs here and there of bleach will clear up the pool.....after awhile.
 
Thanks again, guys! So what I'm hearing is: Have PH set before shock and level up CYA while shocking. Yay...hopefully get started as soon as I get the PH set. Being new (but very green and alive...lol) county water, that shouldn't be too hard. Can't put the CYA sock in my skimmer as it will block the flow, so I'll do the hanging in front of the intake. Being that it's an above ground, the skimmer is small. Groovy idea! You guys are saving me!!!! :goodjob:
 

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Here are my test results :

PH: 7.2
CYA: 0
FC: 0

So...I can leave my PH since I should start a little low, raise my CYA to at least 30, and of course shock the heck outta it with chlorine using the "Swamp to Oasis" shock method. AM I CORRECT? :?: :?: :?:
 
piglitlover said:
:richard320: Here are some pics for ya.
Have you run into this guy yet?
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