TF100 results (5/7 update), back to green in a 2 hour span!!

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mickeyfan0805

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Sep 21, 2011
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Ok - so the TF100 came in the mail today, and I ran the tests. Here's what I found in the green monster out back...

Chlorine - 0
TA - 30
Calcium - 50
PH - 8.2
CYA - essentially zero (full tube and dot still very visible)

So (once I get the new pump I ordered today), the question is, where do I start?

Do I shock the pool focusing only on chlorine until I get that level up (and the algae cleared), or do I tackle chlorine and CYA at the same time?
 
Re: Test Kit results

The TA of 30 with a pH of 8.2 kinda contradicts each other but you need to get the pH down to the mid 7's before anything else. Then I'd test the TA again and adjust it. Then start shocking if the water isn't clear.
 
Re: Test Kit results

Assuming all leaves/trash are scooped out as best you can and pump is running....


1. Using baking soda, raise TA to 50.
2. Using muriatic acid, lower pH to 7.2
3. Then retest TA and adjust further if needed
4. Hang a sock of CYA to get about 30
5. Start shocking per Pool School article. Use 10 FC for shock level to start.
 
Re: Test Kit results

Butterfly said:
Assuming all leaves/trash are scooped out as best you can and pump is running....


1. Using baking soda, raise TA to 50.
2. Using muriatic acid, lower pH to 7.2
3. Then retest TA and adjust further if needed
4. Hang a sock of CYA to get about 30
5. Start shocking per Pool School article. Use 10 FC for shock level to start.
Click to expand...

Wow - thank you. I had that completely backwards. I figured I had to get the pool cleaned up before I could work on the other levels, apparently it is the other way around! Thanks again!
 
Re: Test Kit results

Youre welcome! Now, I was assuming that the pump had been running/circulating the water at least an hour before you tested the water, correct?

If not, then do so and retest before you make any chemistry changes :wink:
 
Re: Test Kit results

Ok - one quick question.

How long should I wait between each of these items? An hour? A day? Something else? I know CYA often doesn't register a change for as much as a week, but that you can figure the level has been raised once the CYA crystals have been dissolved. But what about the others - how quickly can I move from one treatment to the next?

Thanks!
 
Re: Test Kit results

mickeyfan0805 said:
Ok - one quick question.

How long should I wait between each of these items? An hour? A day? Something else? I know CYA often doesn't register a change for as much as a week, but that you can figure the level has been raised once the CYA crystals have been dissolved. But what about the others - how quickly can I move from one treatment to the next?

Thanks!
Click to expand...
With the pump running and some brushing, an hour should be plenty of time. Baking Soda, Muriatic Acid, and Bleach are all very soluble.
 
Re: Test Kit results

I'm a little lost and need input.

As stated above, my CYA is effectively 0, as is my FC. The previous poster suggested I need to raise my CYA before I shock the pool. However, here's the problem...

To raise my CYA, I need to run the pump for at least 24 straight hours so the CYA can cycle through. There is so much algae, however, that I can't run the pump for more than an hour without having to clean it out (the cartridges become completely coated in algae).

What do I do? Do I need to spring for liquid CYA to get it mixed through faster? Is there a different option?
 
Re: Test Kit results - new issue posted 4/27

If it's that bad don't worry about the CYA yet. Go ahead and start shocking if you're sure that you have as much debris out as you can get. The sun will burn up a little bit but it won't be much in the long run.
 
Re: Test Kit results - new issue posted 4/27

Bama Rambler said:
If it's that bad don't worry about the CYA yet. Go ahead and start shocking if you're sure that you have as much debris out as you can get. The sun will burn up a little bit but it won't be much in the long run.
Click to expand...

Should I try to vacuum 'blind' before I shock - just to try to get more out? I've gotten as much off the top as I can.
 

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Re: Test Kit results - new issue posted 4/27

Unfortunately, even after you shock all the algae dead, you are going to have to filter it all out ... which is going to require many many cartridge cleans. So, you can either start doing them now, or later, but you need to be running the pump/filter 24/7 during the shock process anyway.
 
Re: Test Kit results - new issue posted 4/27

jblizzle said:
Unfortunately, even after you shock all the algae dead, you are going to have to filter it all out ... which is going to require many many cartridge cleans. So, you can either start doing them now, or later, but you need to be running the pump/filter 24/7 during the shock process anyway.
Click to expand...

This is precisely my quandary. My filter starts at 15psi after I add DE. Within an hour, it is at 25psi and the cartridges are coated in algae. I have already opened the filter and cleaned the cartridges 4 times. I can't be out there at 3am trying to do the same. How do I run 24/7 during the shock process if I can't get more than an hour of consecutive operation before the PSI jumps too high.

For the other who asked about a cover - there was a cover on the pool and there has not been much debris. The issue is that the pool was drained and covered before we moved in at the end of August, and we've now gathered that this was because he didn't want us to know that the pump was broken. I'm guessing the pool hasn't been operational since, at least, 2010. Because of this, there is a horrid overrun of algae.
 
Re: Test Kit results - new issue posted 4/27

How do I run 24/7 during the shock process if I can't get more than an hour of consecutive operation before the PSI jumps too high.
Click to expand...
Obviously, you can't so you will have to come as close as you can. If DE has a disadvantage it is that it struggles more than sand to clean up a swamp like you have. However, the intervals between backwash will get less frequent the more you can stay with it so just simply do it as often as you can.
 
Re: Test Kit results - new issue posted 4/27

We pay a price for the great cleaning ability of the DE filters.

Just remember this headache as incentive to not let the pool ever turn back to a swamp again :wink:
 
Re: Test Kit results - new issue posted 4/27

duraleigh said:
Obviously, you can't so you will have to come as close as you can. If DE has a disadvantage it is that it struggles more than sand to clean up a swamp like you have. However, the intervals between backwash will get less frequent the more you can stay with it so just simply do it as often as you can.
Click to expand...

And this gets back to how ignorant I am in all of this...

I've been doing backwashes frequently - but I've actually removed the cartridges and hosed them off 4 times today (a 45 minute process each time). Which is why I'm feeling so overwhelmed. Is this not necessary? Is backwashing all I need to be doing? How often should I be doing the full cleaning?

As a side note - when I backwash, it is not green. I somewhat expected to see green water as the algae was being eliminated. Was I mistaken?
 
Re: Test Kit results - new issue posted 4/27

You do not need to break the filter down each time (although that sure does clean them better).

I would just stick to backwashes until it seems like the pressure does not drop as low as it should. Then do a breakdown. I would also break it down towards the end of shocking and your water is pretty clear to just be starting off fresh.

To backwash you want to switch between "Backwash" and "Rinse/Clean" {Do you have a multi-valve of push/pull} a few times until the backwash stays pretty clear the whole time. Turn off the pump every time your change the valve. Then after you are done with just a backwash, only add about 80% or so of the full DE recharge as there is always some left in the filter.

You are adding new DE immediately after each cleaning correct? Because if you do not, the filter will clog up with algae even faster.
 
Re: Test Kit results - new issue posted 4/27

jblizzle said:
You do not need to break the filter down each time (although that sure does clean them better).

I would just stick to backwashes until it seems like the pressure does not drop as low as it should. Then do a breakdown. I would also break it down towards the end of shocking and your water is pretty clear to just be starting off fresh.

To backwash you want to switch between "Backwash" and "Rinse/Clean" {Do you have a multi-valve of push/pull} a few times until the backwash stays pretty clear the whole time. Turn off the pump every time your change the valve. Then after you are done with just a backwash, only add about 80% or so of the full DE recharge as there is always some left in the filter.

You are adding new DE immediately after each cleaning correct? Because if you do not, the filter will clog up with algae even faster.
Click to expand...

Thanks - I really appreciate everyone's help in all of this! To your questions/comments...

I do have a multi-port valve, I am adding DE, and I absolutely plan to do a full breakdown of the filter when the system is caught up.

As for the clarity of the backwash - I added a note about that above. It does not backwash green, it backwashes cloudy but not green. That has surprised me. Does that seem right?
 
Re: Test Kit results - new issue posted 4/27

Bama Rambler said:
That's not really surprising. As you're shocking, you're killing the algae so it won't be green anymore.
Click to expand...

Sorry I wasn't clear on this - I'm not shocking yet. I'm referring to the backwashing I've been doing while trying to get ph and TA levels in line. I haven't started shocking yet. When I backwash, it shows cloudy in the viewing bottle, but if I open it up when the pressure spikes I find the filter panels coated in algae.
 

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