I'm sorry I'm not including tests today. I will try to run out and get them later this morning. I've been battling algae for quite a while now. It started out as very dark black algae and over the course of shocking over the last two weeks the algae has started to die off. I've brushed most of the heads off (you can see like a hollow circle, etc) and I feel like I'm making progress. Yesterday I went to the pool store and they said my phosphates are way too high and most likely I'm seeing an algae bloom. (I disagree, because again the algae is getting lighter and less!) The suggested that I do a total drain and scrub the tar of it and do a refill. I really don't like this idea, but I'm wondering if it's ever worth doing a total drain.
Making progress....but not sure what I should do
- Thread starter mpacheco72
- Start date
Start by reading the articles in pool school.
Then take a look at this thread.
It'll seem overwhelming, but if you have the patience and are willing to take direction, there are a lot of very friendly people who love to help pool owners in your situation.
Then take a look at this thread.
It'll seem overwhelming, but if you have the patience and are willing to take direction, there are a lot of very friendly people who love to help pool owners in your situation.
There are times when it's advisable to drain but it's very rare to ever do a total drain. Replacing the liner is about the only time you need to do that.
Don't worry about the phosphates. I repeat, don't worry about the phosphates!
What I suspect is that you haven't been shocking the pool most efficiently. How have you been shocking the pool?
Are you keeping the FC at shock level for your CYA through the entire process?
Are you running the pump 24/7 throughout the process?
Are you brushing daily?
If you have been shocking properly then just keep at it until you pass the OCLT (see my sig).
Once you post the numbers we'll know more about how to advise you.
Don't worry about the phosphates. I repeat, don't worry about the phosphates!
What I suspect is that you haven't been shocking the pool most efficiently. How have you been shocking the pool?
Are you keeping the FC at shock level for your CYA through the entire process?
Are you running the pump 24/7 throughout the process?
Are you brushing daily?
If you have been shocking properly then just keep at it until you pass the OCLT (see my sig).
Once you post the numbers we'll know more about how to advise you.
Listen to these guys. I'm in the home stretch after two weeks of taking their advice!
Are you "running out" to the pool store to have them test your water? Or are you "running out" to the pool to test it yourself?
There is no way you could be following the recommended shocking PROCESS without your own good test kit ... I agree with Bama that you have likely not had an appropriate FC for your CYA level.
The only other times a partial drain makes sense if is your CYA or CH are unmanageably high.
There is no way you could be following the recommended shocking PROCESS without your own good test kit ... I agree with Bama that you have likely not had an appropriate FC for your CYA level.
The only other times a partial drain makes sense if is your CYA or CH are unmanageably high.
Bama is right about phosphates.
jbizzle is right about testing. You definitely want to get your own good test kit (for better results and more convenience)
Without knowing your pool levels it can be a little tough to figure out what might be happening with the chemistry in the water. In your situation this is what I would do based off the information you have given:
The first thing you will want to do is to check your ph level. Being that you have been shocking your pool I would assume that you probably have a high pH level. If this is true, I would lower your pH level to 7.2 range, this will help make the chlorine more effective.
I also believe in using an algaecide, it enhances the chlorine (completely optional though..I suspect most TFP members will say it's not needed).
You want to make sure that you are running the pump 24/7, checking your chlorine level every day and brushing down the surface.
When having an algae bloom (if it is severe) I take out the filter element or put the sand/DE on bypass temporarily till the algae is dead, I do this so there is no restriction of flow while the chemicals are mixing and sanitizing the pool.
Once the algae is dead and the pool is cloudy instead of green/yellow/black I put my filters back in. I am not sure if you have a main drain on your AG pool but if so, you are going to want to pull as much water from the main drain as possible verses the skimmers.
Last step is a little bit of clarifier (optional). Once you clear it up, clean your filter and return to normal operation.
You can skip the algaecide and clarifier if you want to but, in my experience it slows the turnaround time.
jbizzle is right about testing. You definitely want to get your own good test kit (for better results and more convenience)
Without knowing your pool levels it can be a little tough to figure out what might be happening with the chemistry in the water. In your situation this is what I would do based off the information you have given:
The first thing you will want to do is to check your ph level. Being that you have been shocking your pool I would assume that you probably have a high pH level. If this is true, I would lower your pH level to 7.2 range, this will help make the chlorine more effective.
I also believe in using an algaecide, it enhances the chlorine (completely optional though..I suspect most TFP members will say it's not needed).
You want to make sure that you are running the pump 24/7, checking your chlorine level every day and brushing down the surface.
When having an algae bloom (if it is severe) I take out the filter element or put the sand/DE on bypass temporarily till the algae is dead, I do this so there is no restriction of flow while the chemicals are mixing and sanitizing the pool.
Once the algae is dead and the pool is cloudy instead of green/yellow/black I put my filters back in. I am not sure if you have a main drain on your AG pool but if so, you are going to want to pull as much water from the main drain as possible verses the skimmers.
Last step is a little bit of clarifier (optional). Once you clear it up, clean your filter and return to normal operation.
You can skip the algaecide and clarifier if you want to but, in my experience it slows the turnaround time.
Do not test the pH if FC is above 10 as it can skew your test results and create a false high reading. Definately do NOT test and adjust your pH while you are shocking the pool. Wait until the FC is below 10 to test and adjust.
Algaecides are not recommended. They are better at prevention than cure. Also, on the occassion that we do recommend an algaecide, it would be PolyQuat60.
The only chemical you need to clear your pool is bleach/liquid chlorine.
You do need a good test kit to get things in your control.
Algaecides are not recommended. They are better at prevention than cure. Also, on the occassion that we do recommend an algaecide, it would be PolyQuat60.
The only chemical you need to clear your pool is bleach/liquid chlorine.
You do need a good test kit to get things in your control.
True! I was making the assumption that using the thiosulphate reagent would neutralize the chlorine and provide a true pH reading. If that is not the case, my bad!Butterfly said:
I do actually own the Taylor K-2005. I tested earlier today. The problem with the Taylor K-2005 is that I can't test chlorine at higher levels than 5. Even diluting the sample (as suggested in the test kit) I'm getting FC of 25. PH was 7.7. CH was 600. CYA=60.
Is there a way to use my Taylor K-2005 to get an accurate number of FC and TC? My husband will kill me if I have to go out and buy another kit. Or is there a supplement??
Is there a way to use my Taylor K-2005 to get an accurate number of FC and TC? My husband will kill me if I have to go out and buy another kit. Or is there a supplement??
You need the FAS-DPD test. Taylor sells it also as a standalone in addition to part of the K2006.
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Thank you. I will see if they have it here at the store locally tommorow. In my excitement to buy a test kit, I bought the wrong Taylor. 
I have my doubts of you finding it locally .... but stranger things have happened. Good luck.
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I just went ahead and ordered it. Luckily, my pool store has a really reputable owner. However, he died 2 weeks ago and the help that is running it now are more interested in selling chemicals than in telling you that you don't need all that other garbage.
Luckily, my pool store has a really reputable owner. However, he died 2 weeks ago and the help that is running it now are more interested in selling chemicals than in telling you that you don't need all that other garbage.
We see that happen a lot. We tell people to buy the K-2006 and when they go to the pool store they're told that the K-2005 is the same and when they finally figure out that it's not they have to either buy a new kit or buy the FAS-DPD stand alone test, just as you've done.mpacheco72 said:In my excitement to buy a test kit, I bought the wrong Taylor.
And to be honest it was completely my fault. My pool guy was actually great and didn't try to sell you a bunch of Crud when you went in. He would also come out and look at your pool (without charge) if you had a problem, etc. He helped set up my sandfilter, etc. So while most pool people are the pits, there are a few exceptions! I'll miss him!