Mastertemp bypass valve

[woody]

Anyone have a clue how to replace/repair the manifold bypass valve in a Pentair Mastertemp heater? I'm not even sure this is a repairable item.

It appears that the bypass valve popped loose and made its way to my chlorinator (which subsequently broke the flow switch and stopped my chlorinator from working). Conveniently so, the valve is just the right size to make it through 2" elbows in PVC piping!

I've since replace the flow switch, but now I have the bypass valve in may hand and think its probably a good idea to put it back.

Of course, I don't want it popping loose again to required another flow switch replacement.

Thanks.

 

[Pool Clown]

That is what you get when it breaks. Although yours doesn't look broken, rather worn, and just slipped through the hole. You, or your tech will have to take the manifold off to replace the Internal by-pass kit P/N 77707-0001.

Don't forget to turn off the pump first!

Note: Anyone wanting to know why they use unions to plumb this heater, this repair is your answer.

#8 is what you need. You may want to replace the gasket as well
http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=htt ... I&dur=7474

 

[Keven]

It's easy to replace the by-pass. You will spend more time taking it apart and putting back together then replacing the by-pass.

 

[woody]

What are the implications if it isn't repaired? Can I just put the valve back in place?

 

[Pool Clown]

Heater will short cycle and make noise. Replace the by-pass.

 

[woody]

For anyone interested, here's how it goes:

Heater in line before SWG
[attachment=2:67v8lfwg]IMG00104-20120421-0754.jpg[/attachment:67v8lfwg]

Remove sides and top
[attachment=1:67v8lfwg]IMG00108-20120421-0803.jpg[/attachment:67v8lfwg]

Got to remove the manifold side by removing bolts to heater
[attachment=0:67v8lfwg]IMG00109-20120421-0803.jpg[/attachment:67v8lfwg]

 

[woody]

Now we can get to the manifold
[attachment=2:mcsuanfs]IMG00111-20120421-0809.jpg[/attachment:mcsuanfs]

Remove the thermostat first
[attachment=1:mcsuanfs]IMG00128-20120421-0942.jpg[/attachment:mcsuanfs]

Now the manifold
[attachment=0:mcsuanfs]IMG00113-20120421-0823.jpg[/attachment:mcsuanfs]

 

[woody]

The manifold insert (plastic) needs to be removed
[attachment=2:336cmcx6]IMG00115-20120421-0832.jpg[/attachment:336cmcx6]

The bypass valve assembly without the valve (its broken)
[attachment=1:336cmcx6]IMG00118-20120421-0833.jpg[/attachment:336cmcx6]

Had to remove the broken valve plate with pliers since spring is holding it in
[attachment=0:336cmcx6]IMG00119-20120421-0836.jpg[/attachment:336cmcx6]

 

[woody]

Broken valve (bottom) and new valve assembly (top)
[attachment=2:3hwu600z]IMG00120-20120421-0839.jpg[/attachment:3hwu600z]

New valve assembly in place
[attachment=1:3hwu600z]IMG00121-20120421-0921.jpg[/attachment:3hwu600z]

The manifold insert is in 3 pieces (like a puzzle), easier to re-assemble by piece
temperature switch should be removed before removing and replacing insert
[attachment=0:3hwu600z]IMG00122-20120421-0923.jpg[/attachment:3hwu600z]

 

[woody]

Other insert piece replaced
[attachment=2:1yozo48v]IMG00126-20120421-0929.jpg[/attachment:1yozo48v]

First gasket is put in place, then manifold cover plate
[attachment=1:1yozo48v]IMG00127-20120421-0931.jpg[/attachment:1yozo48v]

Everything back in order, working great
[attachment=0:1yozo48v]IMG00103-20120421-0753.jpg[/attachment:1yozo48v]

 

[woody]

BTW, the valve was broken (tips where it clips to the retainer ring to hold the spring were broken).

The valve made it through 3 x 90^o bends and into the SWG. Water flow pushed the valve into the flow switch in the SWG and broke that too.

Had to replace the flow switch and the valve kit. After ~$120+ (parts only, I did all the work), all working fine now.

 

[kayakerjess]

BTW, the valve was broken (tips where it clips to the retainer ring to hold the spring were broken).

The valve made it through 3 x 90^o bends and into the SWG. Water flow pushed the valve into the flow switch in the SWG and broke that too.

Had to replace the flow switch and the valve kit. After ~$120+ (parts only, I did all the work), all working fine now.

Thank you so much for the great explanation and pictures. You have really helped me out!

 

[r1100ron]

Assuming yours has been fixed in the last 3 years.......I just replaced mine (posting for the benefit of others).

My heater would fire, start making a popping noise, then shut down. At first it was intermittent...but then it became constant and the heater was non-functional.

I tore it apart to find mama rat had torn the bottom insulation apart and made a nice nest. She was in there when I opened it. It was disgusting (note to self open this thing up a couple of times a year to check for wildlife). I no longer have a bottom insulation blanket but so far this doesn't seem to be a problem. Perhaps it would be more of an issue if I was heating a pool in Minnesota in January....but I am in Houston in the Summer. Getting the hot tub from 96 to 102 is not a huge challenge.

But I digress..after my neighbor gave $400 that he didn't need to a repairmen to repair his heater (his was more rat-related than mine!), I took a chance and ordered the bypass valve and gasket kit (important!!) from InTheSwim for about $50.

Replacement was pretty simple. Take off front and rear panels, remove manifold side cover, and and remove the bolts that hold the manifold. There was red high temp Permatex all over the bolts from the manufacturer. I scraped it off as best as I could. Takes a screwdriver and hammer to get the manifold assembly apart. Sure enough, the valve was broken. What a piece of junk. I'm going to order another so I have a spare when this one comes apart in a few years. Compressing all of the o-rings and gaskets back in place requires alternate tightening of the bolts. Kinda like torquing head bolts on a motor.

Overall it was a simple job and the heater works fine...and I am about $350 ahead.

Hope this helps someone else.

Forgot to mention I wouldn't have been able to repair or even diagnose this problem without the helpful information posted on this forum. Y'all saved me a bunch of money! Thanks!!!

Anyone have a clue how to replace/repair the manifold bypass valve in a Pentair Mastertemp heater? I'm not even sure this is a repairable item.

It appears that the bypass valve popped loose and made its way to my chlorinator (which subsequently broke the flow switch and stopped my chlorinator from working). Conveniently so, the valve is just the right size to make it through 2" elbows in PVC piping!

I've since replace the flow switch, but now I have the bypass valve in may hand and think its probably a good idea to put it back.

Of course, I don't want it popping loose again to required another flow switch replacement.

Thanks.

 

[r1100ron]

Update. I installed a VS pump last year while the valve was broken. Apparently the working valve now restricts flow, so I am having to adjust my pump rpm settings up to compensate.

 

[ps0303]

When you do this, you should also use a coil and tubesheet sealing o-ring kit and don't forget to lube them lube them.

 

[r1100ron]

When you do this, you should also use a coil and tubesheet sealing o-ring kit and don't forget to lube them lube them.

Yep!

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk

 

[r1100ron]

I mentioned in my posted that a mama rat used the insulation blanket under the boiler assembly to build a nest. Should I worry about replacing it?

 

[ps0303]

I mentioned in my posted that a mama rat used the insulation blanket under the boiler assembly to build a nest. Should I worry about replacing it?

I wouldn't worry about it. It would be a pain in the rear to do it anyway.

 

[r1100ron]

I wouldn't worry about it. It would be a pain in the rear to do it anyway.

That's what I thought too. Thanks for the advice.

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk

 

[Pool Clown]

The bypass valve assembly without the valve (its broken)
[attachment=1:336cmcx6]IMG00118-20120421-0833.jpg[/attachment:336cmcx6]

Looks like the temp sensor is on its way out. That will be easier to replace.