Check Valve or Ball Valve

maxepr1

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Mar 21, 2011
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I am getting ready to replumb my filter pad. Currently I have no unions on my pumps and no service ball valves or check valves in my pump setup. I think I am defiantly going to use 2" unions on the pump but it would be nice when doing maintenance on the the filter or pump to be able to prevent all the water in my lines to drain back into the pool when I'm doing it. Been looking at spring check valves, does anybody have any experience with them? I'm afraid I might leave a ball valve closed by accident and starve a pump. Any comments would be appreciated.
 
The check valves that Jandy and Pentair make with the clear lids are supposed to have less head loss than some of the others and they are re-buildable if something goes wrong. I plan to add a few to my setup (after filter and on solar return) when I redo my pad.

I am not going to put one between the pump and filter as it sounds like you are considering. I can just turn my multi-valve to prevent the filter from draining.
 
The only thing I see wrong with the Jandy valve is there all glue ins. So if any maintenance needs to be done your going to be doing some plumbing! You can turn your muti-valve to keep water in the filter tank but if you need to empty a pump strainer basket that's upstream of the valve, all the water goes bye bye. I was looking at Praher inline check valves with unions. But I never thought about head loss?
 
Use either jandy or pentair valves and check valves.. You will be really happy in the long run. If your equipment isn't above water level there is no need for a check valve.
 
When you open the basket you lose water back to the pool so you will want a shutoff/ball valve before the pump. Don't use a check valve before your pump as it can create an entrapment hazard. As for starving your pump a good practice is to always run the system after doing maintenance on it. You should notice a closed valve pretty quickly.
 
maxepr1 said:
it would be nice when doing maintenance on the the filter or pump to be able to prevent all the water in my lines to drain back into the pool when I'm doing it.
Why is that a concern?
 
It not really a concern, just while I'm in there plumbing I thought it would be nice. I see allot of other equipment with shut off valves I figuring out what I don't like about my set-up. My pad is a little above water, when I pop the lid open to clean the strainer all the water drains back into the pool. I never really prime my pump either, just burp the filter until it draws water up into the pump.
 
To prevent draining the pump basket, you need a valve on each side of the pump. You could go with a check valve on the suction side but you would have to use a 2-way on the return side. Avoid ball valves, they are really high in head loss and you can't repair them.

However, you shouldn't really need them and I think you would be better off without them.
 

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Standard Jandy 3-way, 2-way and flapper type check valves are probably the best. Jandy is the only one that publishes head loss data but I have seen some data on axial spring loaded check valves that you get at the hardware store and they have very high head loss and should avoided at all cost.
 
Mark, thanks for the info. I was under impression that ball valve would have zero head loss - looking thru the valve it seems that when it is open, the opening in the ball lines up perfectly with inlets of the valve. in other words, the diameter of the hole in the ball is the same as pipe diameter.

But searching online reveals that the opening is smaller, hence the head loss?
 
Right, any constriction adds head loss and disturbs the flow. The Jandy valves generally have a larger interior than the pipe diameter so it isn't as bad. But my biggest issue with ball valves is that you can't repair them without cutting into the plumbing not to mention how stiff they can be after some time.
 
mas985 said:
Right, any constriction adds head loss and disturbs the flow. The Jandy valves generally have a larger interior than the pipe diameter so it isn't as bad. But my biggest issue with ball valves is that you can't repair them without cutting into the plumbing not to mention how stiff they can be after some time.
Thanks Mark! I should have paid more attention in Physics! The Jandy valve is a glue in, so a failure would require cutting out the valve also, right? Unless you can rebuild the valve? If I put a flapper on the suction side and then just closed my multi-valve it would trap the water correct?
 
Yes, you can rebuild the valve. It is only the valve housing that cannot be repaired but it usually the handle and/or valve that can gets damanged anyway. Also, it is nice to have the ability to take apart the valves for inspection to see if there is any debris stuck in there. None these things are necessities only things that make troubleshooting and repair a little easier.
 

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