Installing Pentair Load Center for Easy Touch

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Locksmythe

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Apr 7, 2011
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I am planning for an Easy Touch install and am looking for wiring advice from someone familiar with installation.

From the manual: ( http://www.pentairpool.com/pdfs/LoadCenterIG.pdf )

"The EasyTouch and IntelliTouch automation control circuit board requires 120 VAC, 3A
power to operate the control logic circuits and the optional IntelliChlor salt chlorine generator.
This power should be connected to one of the circuit breakers in the sub-panel"

My current subpanel is fed 60 AMPs from the main panel in the house. I intend to replace the old subpanel with the pentair unit if the wires will reach the lugs.

Current panel contains one 20 amp 220/240 circuit for the 2hp superflo pump, one 20amp 120 circuit for the pool lights, and one 20 amp 120 circuit for the floodlights and outlets.

Which one of those circuits should feed the control panel its 3 Amps?

The comment about the intellichlor in the above confuses me because later in the manual it says to power the intellichlor off the load side of the pump relay. This in itself confused me as I am not sure how the easy touch would manage the intellichlor if it keeps getting turned off with the pump (which I realize it also controls).

Can someone straighten me out?
 
Oh, and both the system power supply and SWG power supply can be rewired to 120 or 240. Inexplicably, the manual says they start out with one on 120 and one on 240, so one of them always has to be rewired.
 
Here is how i did mine (Easytouch 4 with IC20). I fed the panel with a 30 amp GFCI 220v Breaker. I have a breaker for my EasyTouch Controls, and a breaker for the Power Supply that feeds the SWG.

In the picture Red is EasyTouch Power, where Green is SWG Power.

In the picture you can see the EasyTouch Panel Power Black wire is connected to a Breaker. Blue is connected the the neutral bar, and Yellow is capped off (out of picture)

The SWG Power supply has Yellow and Black connected to a Breaker with Blue and White connected to the neutral bar.

Outside of the Pumps i wanted to go 110 as much as i could, to allow for more breakers.


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Thanks for the pictures, too, by the way. I was also trying to figure out how to run the high voltage in the panel since there is no raceway or easy way to hold them in place. You solved with string!
 
Its not a problem having your individual breakers exceeding your feed. If you look at your home panel its the same way. A 200amp service has much more than 200 amps worth of breakers. What is important is to calculate your load and size the feed accordingly. Also, size the wire to the breaker (code mandates this). In my case i am well below 30 amps. If i end up exceeding that in the future, the worst that can happen is i start tripping the 30 amp feed, and will have to upgrade the breaker / wire, but there is no worries there.
 
Locksmythe said:
Thanks for the pictures, too, by the way. I was also trying to figure out how to run the high voltage in the panel since there is no raceway or easy way to hold them in place. You solved with string!
Click to expand...


Ahh finally someone notices my string. Its a electrical string that is coated in wax. The process is called wire lacing. Its somewhat of a lost art. The only places i see it used is telcom and aviation. Its much gentler than zip ties. Allthough zip ties are fine.
 

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My only problem with connecting to the pump relay is, it takes away a manual disconnect for the SWG. I suppose you could unplug the cable, but i like having a switch i can flip when i am shocking.

I'm not too worried about the SWG staying on. It appears there is 2 means of shutting it off. A mechanical flow switch, as well as signalling.
 
Bleh, as it turns out my ground wire from the main panel is 2 inches short.

Options:

1. Pull 40 feet of 10 gauge stranded for the extra 2 inches
2. Cut the conduit shorter without cutting wires
3. splice 2 more inches of wire in
4. move the ground bar in the box

Option 4 seems safest to me, but is that permissible? If I just swing it down to vertical instead of horizontal it will fit. Thoughts? Improvements?
 
If it was me, i would just splice some extra on. Or, cut the conduit back. To cut the conduit, put some pull string on the wires, and pull them back to a safe area. After the cut, pull them back.
 
I managed to get the ground to fit without modification. Barely. All appears to be up and running, just in time for a trip away. Looking forward to seeing some chlorine left in the pool when I return!

Anyone know how the tiny breakers in the corner of the easy touch panel work? Says there is one for the SWG, but I couldn't tell by looking how they are activated. Seems flimsy.
 
I know this is an old thread but I'm super new and working on a self install to save 30k. I have the easy touch 4 with SWG and don't seem to grasp how to run the power to the load center. I completely rewired my kitchen to code with new wire/breakers and all but am lost on this right now. (might be the plumbing and everything else)

The easy touch load center will be 120feet from the house, so do I install the 50 amp 220 GFCI breaker in my house panel then run it out to the load center main feed lugs? I plan on using #6 THHN in 1 1/2 in conduit buried 18inches under ground. The plan is for a Whisperflo 1hp 2 speed 220v pump, Savi melody lights, and have extra room for future heater and a run to a future outdoor kitchen.
The manual says use #4 Awg on one page and then # 6 on another. Any help is appreciated.
 
My main 220 line comes from the house panel circuit breaker directly to the feed lines in the EasyTouch. I have 4 220 circuit breaker's inside the EasyTouch for the pump, SCG, air blower, and heater. 110 breaker for the lights.

The only thing I see that might be incorrect in the previous posts are the SCG wiring. Power should come from a circuit breaker in the panel into the line side of the filter/pump relay. The SCG connects to the load side of the filter/pump relay. This ensures the SCG is only powered when the pump is running. My pump isn't connected to the pump relay, but the EasyTouch know when the pumps on through the comm cable. It'll be slightly different with your 2 speed pump.

Can you post the reference from the manual on wire size? I can't find it. I'm almost certain that my feed line is 10 gauge.
 
So you have a breaker in your main house panel(GFCI) then it runs to the load center feeds? Did you also pull a Neutral and ground from the house panel out to the load center or only the 220 lines off the breaker?
 
4knights said:
I know this is an old thread but I'm super new and working on a self install to save 30k. I have the easy touch 4 with SWG and don't seem to grasp how to run the power to the load center. I completely rewired my kitchen to code with new wire/breakers and all but am lost on this right now. (might be the plumbing and everything else)

The easy touch load center will be 120feet from the house, so do I install the 50 amp 220 GFCI breaker in my house panel then run it out to the load center main feed lugs? I plan on using #6 THHN in 1 1/2 in conduit buried 18inches under ground. The plan is for a Whisperflo 1hp 2 speed 220v pump, Savi melody lights, and have extra room for future heater and a run to a future outdoor kitchen.
The manual says use #4 Awg on one page and then # 6 on another. Any help is appreciated.
Click to expand...

50A should be okay for 6 gauge copper, but I think it needs to be rated for wet locations due to being underground in conduit, e.g. THHN/THWN. It's a long run (120 feet), so you shouldn't exceed that amperage draw. Also, I'd suggest against using a single GFCI breaker to feed the entire panel. Yes, you save a few bucks, but it would be much better to use a couple of GFCI breakers at the pool panel, esp. when the GFCI blows. In ours, I have two 220V GFCI breakers (2 pumps), and 2 120V GFCI breakers, all in the Easytouch panel.
 

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