Just opened pool for the first time....

[JTuned]

Hi new to this site first off thanks for all the info it has been great so far. I just opened my pool for the first time, bought a house and it came with a pool. It had a torn tarp on it and had taken in leaves. It was dark green almost black water when I started. I tested the water and the PH was good but had no chlorine in it at all. I have had the pump running for three days and have shocked the pool several times. I have the chlorine levels rising but now the water is blue and cloudy. What is my next step other than to let the pump run and monitor my chemicals? It is a 17X30 15000 gallon pool running a sand filter.
Thanks for any help,

Joe

[attachment=1:5izzwao4]IMG_1021.jpg[/attachment:5izzwao4]

[attachment=0:5izzwao4]IMG_1029.jpg[/attachment:5izzwao4]

 

[joshs2000ss]

Do you have a test kit yet, or at least a store where you can get your levels checked? You need to check out pool school and start the "shocking" process for the pool.

Remember that shocking the pool is more than just throwing a bag or two of shock in. It's a process, and if done correctly, will get your pool up and running fairly quickly with the best base for keeping your pool consistant the rest of the season.

 

[carlscan26]

Have you read http://www.troublefreepool.com/turning-your-green-swamp-back-into-a-sparkling-oasis-t4147.html? As joshs2000ss asked, having a good test kit is key to cleaning up your pool as quickly as possible and as efficiently as possible. Shocking is a process, you will need to measure every hour or as often as you can at first and keep adding chlorine to keep your FC at the shock level needed for your CYA level. Use http://thepoolcalculator.com/ to determine how much CL to add each time to get back to shock level.

You're getting there as green/black to cloudy blue is an improvement but there is a more efficient way to do this and you may actually digress if you don't stay on top of this.

Good luck and keep asking questions, we'll help you get it sparkling!

 

[JTuned]

I have been testing with a kit that came with the house. It is a Taylor k-2005. Not sure how old the chemicals are in the kit so I may need to replace them. Here are my lateest readings.
FC looks like 1ppm
PH started at 7.5 when i first tested but has droped to 7.2 now after shocking it for the last two days.
TA reads 100
CH reads 100
CYA was zero when I started and now reads 100!
water temp is at 58 its early in the year but has warmed up here early.
I am using Trichloro powder to shock the pool. I alos added an algaecide to kill off the algae.
I have read both of the posts and found them helpfull. I am learning as I go. Hope to not screew it up.

 

[carlscan26]

STOP USING THE TRICHLOR SHOCK! It's what has raised your CYA. At the level you're at now it's going to be very difficult to finish clearing up the pool without A LOT of CL. When did you last use that stuff? I ask because it can take up to a week for CYA to finish dissolving so your levels may still be climbing. Do you know how much you put in? We can use that to figure out how much CYA you added. Also what are the concentrations of that powder?

Your FC is way too low to be shocking. You should get the FAS-DPD test kit from TFTestkits - this will upgrade your K-2005 to a k-2006 and allow you to measure true CL shock levels.

 

[supertune]

Hi JTuned and welcome to TFP!
Order a new TF-100 with the XL option, this is the best tool you can have in your tool box! This kit will define exactly where your water is and will prevent other problems you don't want.
The main reasons to have a kit like this...you will save $$, you will learn what to add and what not to add, convenience to test anytime you need to, and best of all if you follow the science taught here you will have a Trouble Free Pool!
At this point you must have a test kit that can measure chlorine in 3 formats, FC-Free Chlorine, CC-Combined Chlorine and TC-Total Chlorine and be able to read FC levels up to 40-50ppm range.
A FAS-DPD kit will do this.
This is a must have if you don't want to do the guessing game and not be able get the results you need to fix and clear your water.
All of the info you need is in Pool School link at the top of the page.
With proper test #'s from your pool water using the TF-100, we can guide you to the same success we have with our pools that where in the same condition as yours!
P.S. Please don't add anything but liquid chlorine or 6% Clorox unscented plain bleach at this time. You can balance other things as needed after you properly shock and clear your pool.
This is all you need to clear your pool, with monitoring chlorine levels, adding chlorine, brushing and possibly vacuuming pool, cleaning and or back washing your filter. Run filter 24/7 until you pass your shock process tests stated here in 'Shocking Your Pool'.
pool-school/shocking_your_pool

Chuck

 

[JTuned]

So a week has gone by and I have made some progress. I have a new test kit the TF-100 XL on order and have switched to bleach.
I have been testing with the kit that came with the house. It is a Taylor k-2005. Here are my latest readings.
FC looks like it’s at 3 ppm
PH started at 7.5 when I first tested but has dropped to 7.0 When I add the test drops it takes 5 drops to get the PH into the 7.5 range.
TA reads 100
CH reads 100
CYA was reading wrong my tester had gunk in the bottom. Now it reads 60.
Water temp is at 58.
I have a few new questions. I have been adding bleach to keep the CL up and have been brushing and vacuuming twice a day. The water now looks great but I am fighting the damage I did with the TRICHLOR. I have had the discharge port pointed up to help aerate the water. Will this raise the PH at any pace that would help or should I go for the BORATE to raise it. Also I have drained and filled a bunch of times to lower the CYA that is a slow process. Really just waiting for the pool to warm up and my water to find a happy medium. Thanks for all the help.
Joe
[attachment=1:2vq53y5v]Poolstart.jpg[/attachment:2vq53y5v]
[attachment=0:2vq53y5v]poolnow.jpg[/attachment:2vq53y5v]

 

[duraleigh]

What damage did you do with trichlor and how are you fighting it?

Aeration at this point is not relevant to clearing your pool. Niether is pH nor Borates.

CYA of 60 is a little high but manageable

You should still be shocking your pool according to pool school, or if the shock process is complete, you should let the FC levels return to the suggest levels found in the CYA/FC relationship chart.

Have you completed the shock process?

 

[JTuned]

I feel like. I am done shocking, the water is very clear? How will I know when to be done. Based on the FC levels to CYA levels i need to add bleach but I was also trying to raise my PH back up to 7.4 using airation vice borates is this not effective?

 

[duraleigh]

From the article in Pool School....

CC is 0.5 or lower;
An overnight FC loss test shows a loss of 1.0 ppm or less;
And the water is clear.

Does your pool and test results pass all three of those? If so, you're done.

 

[JTuned]

I need the new test kit that is on order to get my accurate results. Should be here soon. Not really 100% sure on what all mu levels are at. Have just berm checking PH and Clorine levels. My water looks great now. No more alge or grime.

 

[JTuned]

Well I am back with a new question. I got my new TF-100 yesterday, what great company came in less than two days! My test results are a little confusing.
I have been using my old kit until I got my new one and had started off with the TRICHLOR. My pool was dark green and had no CL in it.
I was using the TRI to shock the pool until I was told not to anymore because it was raising my CYA levels which it did.
So I switched to bleach and continued until my water was clear. My issue now is that my levels in the water seem off.
I tested last night and got a FC level of 35 this morning it is 33.
The CC last night was 3 today it is 0
My PH is 7.2 but have read that it may not be accurate because of the high CL levels.
My CYA levels are 65
So do I continue to shock it sense I had a loss of FC over night?
FC of 33 just seems really high for the amount of CL I have put in. I stopped adding the TRI five days ago and then added 96oz of bleach two days ago to bring the pool back to shock levels. Is the high CYA making the pool not loose CL at a fast rate? My pool only gets direct sunlight for a few hours a day right now not sure if this is a factor.
Thanks for the help never thought I would get the nasty dark green thing clear.
r/
Joe

 

[duraleigh]

Well I am back with a new question. I got my new TF-100 yesterday, what great company came in less than two days! My test results are a little confusing.
I have been using my old kit until I got my new one and had started off with the TRICHLOR. My pool was dark green and had no CL in it.
I was using the TRI to shock the pool until I was told not to anymore because it was raising my CYA levels which it did.
So I switched to bleach and continued until my water was clear. My issue now is that my levels in the water seem off.
I tested last night and got a FC level of 35 this morning it is 33.
The CC last night was 3 today it is 0
My PH is 7.2 but have read that it may not be accurate because of the high CL levels.
My CYA levels are 65
So do I continue to shock it sense I had a loss of FC over night?
FC of 33 just seems really high for the amount of CL I have put in. I stopped adding the TRI five days ago and then added 96oz of bleach two days ago to bring the pool back to shock levels. Is the high CYA making the pool not loose CL at a fast rate? My pool only gets direct sunlight for a few hours a day right now not sure if this is a factor.
Thanks for the help never thought I would get the nasty dark green thing clear.
r/
Joe

Disregard your pH test. It is only valid with FC below 10ppm

So do I continue to shock it sense I had a loss of FC over night?

Well, yes, but you are close to being finished.

The shock process is complete when...
1. YOur water is clear - yes

2. Your CC's test is .5ppm or less - yes

3. Your FC loses 1ppm or less in the OCLT - almost, but not quite.

Now, since your FC is a little too high for shock value (should be about 26ppm or so), do not add anymore FC to the pool. Then, this evening, after the sun is off the pool perform the OCLT (learn how in Pool School, but I think you already know)

If your OCLT returns a result of losing 1ppm or less, you're done and can let the FC drift down to around5-8ppm and keep it there the rest of the summer

PS - both the CYA of 65 and the lack of direct sun contribute greatly to the fact you are holding FC so well.

 

[JTuned]

Thanks Dave you rock.
Felt like I was headed in the right direction.
Again this site has been a great help.
R/
Joe

 

[carlscan26]

Joe - you're on your way! A good test kit and knowing how to use it are the first steps to having a Trouble Free Pool. Understanding those results and then knowing what actions to take is what the great people on this board are here to help you with. Soon enough you'll be answering these same questions for new folks too.