Wiring of two speed pump?

[EricD]

Hey all,

Thanks in advance for any help you can give me. This is my first time on here, also first time owning a pool. My pump went out, and I bought a new two speed pump. The pump I was replacing was single speed, but at some point prior to me buying this house there must of been a two speed pump on it because I do have a relay that activates when I push the "low speed" button (verified this with volt meter). The pump was out for quite some time, so my primary focus was to get it working to get my pool cleaning. Because I don't know exactly how to hook up the two speed since the previous pump only had wiring for a single speed, this is what I did:..... The pump has four wires coming from it labeled as follows, 1 (common), 2 high speed, 3-4 low speed, and ground wire. The pump is currently wired for 220v, and the wires I currently have in the conduit from the electrical box was the two legs of the 220v (110v each) and a ground. Both legs come from the "filter pump" relay. I connected one to the common (slot 1), and the other to "high speed" (slot 2), and the ground to ground. I then ran another wire through the conduit and connected it to "low speed" (3-4) and have it dead in my electrical box so I would have it when I figured out where to put it. I figured by doing this, at least I would have high speed working and be able to clean my pool as if I had a single speed pump. Did all this, and it works......but I feel like it is running slow which brings me to my question. Do I have to have the wire for low speed hooked up to get high speed out of my pump? Sounds like a stupid question, but I feel like it is currently running at low speed, even though the only terminal I have connected is the one marked high speed. If I do need it hooked up, can anyone tell me how to wire it to the relay, because currently, the only wire going to that relay right now is my heater, and it is connected to the NC (normally close) terminal. What should I do, please help, THANKS :?:

 

[jblizzle]

Welcome

I am pretty sure you do NOT have to have the low speed wire hooked to anything. In fact, may people just put a SPDT toggle switch on the high and low wire and use that switch to decide what speed the pump is running.

I am unclear what "relay" you are referring to and where the "low speed" button is.

Please post a list of your equipment as that may help with suggestions.

Also, what pump did you remove and what did you replace it will?
Did you replace the entire pump or just the motor?

Is there a chance that this new pump is just quieter than your old one so you think it is running slower? Is the flow comparable (we could figure that out know the tails of both pumps)?

 

[JasonLion]

jblizzle is correct, the low speed wire can be left disconnected, just put on a wire nut or wrap electrical tape around it so it doesn't short to anything. The pump will be just fine, though it will only run on high speed (obviously).

 

[George N]

Welcome to the forum EricD!

 

[scooperhsd]

If you want remote control of 2 speeds - you need 4 wires from controller to pump - 1 High speed hot, 1 low speed hot, 1 ground, and 1 common hot (for 240V) or common Neutral (for 120V). If you only have 3 conductors out to your pump, you will need to put your speed control out at the pump (could be as simple as that SPDT switch). If you aren't going to have a speed control, then I would hook up just the high speed and cap off the low speed, as was previously suggested.

 

[EricD]

Thanks everyone. I did replace the entire pump, not just motor, and it is quieter then the old one, but the little waterfall from the spa to the pool when I have pump on doesn't seem to flow very fast (in comparison to the old one). Yes, I do want the speeds to be controlled by the remote and/or program, and not a manual switch. In my control box, I have eight function buttons, I.e. filter pump, low speed, air blower, rayvac, and 4 extras to add personal feature. It also has a service button, pool mode, spa mode, auto mode run by the program. Next problem...... Because my pump was out so long, my pool looks like a swamp......frogs and all!!! After getting my pump working, I ran it straight for 2 days, the brout a sample of the water to by tested at pool supply store. They said add 1/2 gallon acid, brush, wait an hour, add 3 lbs shock ("colorguard" or something like that, because it is a saltwater pool), brush, wait an hour and pour in "banish" (an algae killer), and wait 24 hours, with pump running the entire time through all previously mentioned steps. It should be blueish by then and not green, the clean the four filter cartridges. Then bring sample to check acid and salt levels to adjust those. Did all steps and it has been 36 hours, and pool is as green as it was before i started, now what?

 

[ROB N]

First off we need to see your test results to give you accurate instructions. Second, liquid Chlorine and lots of it. But without test results we can not really give you much instruction. You should most definitely invest in a proper test kit like the TF-100 or the Taylor k2006.

 

[jblizzle]

You have to decide if you are going to pay the pool store for their recommendations or listen to the recommendations you get here. Odds are focusing on the methods described here will save you money in the long run. We believe in understanding your pool water and only putting in what it NEEDS based on knowledge gained from frequent testing (with your own kit to keep consistent).

Start reading Pool School and decide if this is the route you want to go.

Regarding your pump wiring ... you still have not detailed your equipment. What old pump? What new pump? What automation system? There is no way for use to help without more information.