Confused on CC/FC

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thadius65

LifeTime Supporter
Jul 30, 2011
440
Bloomsburg, PA
Hello,

As I wait for my test kit, I am using test strips I have that measure TA, CH, FC, CC, PH, CYA. When I first opened (but still covered), the chlorine levels where low and was to cold for SWG to work. Per SimplePool, it indicated to add nearly 3 jugs of chlorox to get to proper levels. Since then, I have added salt to get to 3400PPM as well as enough boric acid to get to 50ppm. From then (nearly two weeks ago), til now... my CC and FC are off the charts. I think my test strip stops at 10PPM for each but even uncovered this whole week, they still are that high.

CYA = 50
TA = 90
PH = 7.6

I have my wife taking to pool store today just for their computer readings. Just curios why both CC and FC are pegged so high for so long.

(Sorry noob)

Ted
 
Do your test strips measure FC and CC, or TC (total chlorine) and FC?

If it is TC and FC and they both read the same, then your pool is probably in good shape and the levels will come down as the pool warms up and gets more sun.
 
Wait for your kit. The strips are very unreliable. The pool store "computer readouts" are usually nothing more than a digital readout from strips that are invalid to begin with.

Post up your kit results when you get them and tell us how your water looks. We'll get you to crystal clear (if you're not there yet) in no time. :-D
 
Okay.... I am concerned. Here are my numbers from K2006, K1766 and Lamatte Borate test strips:

CYA = 50
PH = 7.6
FC = 123 (CRAZY)
CC = 1
TA = 110
CH = 0
Borates = 50 (test strip)
Salt =3400

Thanks for your help! FYI - pool is mostly clear and free of debris. backwashed several days ago and have been running pump for 2 weeks. Turned SWG off when I saw the cheaper test strips read both CC and FC off the charts. SWG is at 0% (off). I did add my borates obviously. Also initial reading two weeks ago called for nearly 4 96oz jugs of chlorax.

Thanks!

** Let me add that my wife had the sample in her car all day (sealed), so not sure if that did anything.
 
I filled water to 25ml. I then added 2 dippers of R-0870. Then added R-0871 and counted 41 drops til it went colorless. 41x3=123 FC. Did I do something wrong?

Will be getting sample back from pool store in the morning hopefully.
 
thadius65 said:
I filled water to 25ml. I then added 2 dippers of R-0870. Then added R-0871 and counted 41 drops til it went colorless. 41x3=123 FC. Did I do something wrong?

Will be getting sample back from pool store in the morning hopefully.
Click to expand...

Wait, that is not right. For a 25ml sample, each drop is 0.2ppm FC ... so you multiply 41*0.2 (or 41/5) = FC 8.2

I am not sure where the x3 came from unless you miss read the instructions ( Multiply drops in Step 3 by drop equivalence (Step 1).)
 
I feel like an idiot. Disposable contacts need replaced. I did misread step for to be multiply by 3 as opposed to multiply drops in step 3.... Sorry guys.

So here are my real numbers then:

CYA = 50
PH = 7.6
FC = 8.2
CC = 1
TA = 110
CH = 0
Borates = 50 (test strip)
Salt =3400

So now we are past the DUH moment. Help me plan course of action. I will continue to read and check simplepool with TFP parms.

Thanks!
 

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Reading it looks like I need to add 349oz of 6% bleach - or turn SWG on to what %? Super Chlorinate? I have a 19k gallon IGP with a Hayward SWG system with a T-Cell-15.

CYA needs 63oz of stabalizer. CH needs 494oz of calcium Chloride. Should I just leave TA/PH alone since I already messed up and put boric acid in?
 
OK, shock your pool but do so EXACTLY as the article in Pool School tells you. That means bring the FC up to about 24ppm and HOLDING IT THERE until your pool water is crystal clear, your CC's test is .5 or less and you lose less than 1ppm when you do the OCLT. Read Pool School.

In your case, I think you will get there very quickly if you follow the directions.

Ignore pH and TA for now

What is Simplepool?
 
OK so they're at least registering some CH.

Here are the test directions for CH, try running it again with these steps:

TA - Total Alkalinity


Rinse the sample tube with pool water.
Fill the sample tube with pool water to the 25 ml mark. The top of the sample will be curved. This curve is called a meniscus. The bottom of the meniscus should be level with the 25 ml mark.
Add 2 drops of R-0007 and swirl to mix.
Add 5 drops of R-0008 and swirl to mix. The solution should turn green or blue. If the sample turns red, pink, or yellow, you are done, your TA is zero, and your PH is very very low.
Counting the number of drops as you go, add R-0009 one drop at a time, swirling to mix after each drop.
Continue adding drops until the color changes to something more or less red, pink, yellow, or clear. The sample may switch between green, blue, and gray while you are adding drops. That is not the color change you are waiting for.

Continue adding drops as long as the color continues changing. The final drop, that does not change the color any further, does not count.

Multiply the number of drops by 10 to get your TA level. Remember that the final drop, which didn't cause any further color change, doesn't count.
Dispose of the sample safely. It is best to pour it down the drain with the water running. Do not add it back to the pool.
Rinse the sample tube with tap water and store for next time.

Notes

Sometimes a static electric charge can build up on the R-0009 dropper bottle tip, causing the drops to be smaller than usual and making the test read higher than actual. You can prevent this by wipping the tip of the dropper bottle with a damp cloth or tissue before you start and after each drop.
Hold the dropper bottles vertically and squeeze gently, so that drops come out slowly and seem to hang on the tip of the dropper bottle for a moment before falling.
If you expect that your TA level is extremely high, you can do the test so that each drop is 25, instead of 10, to speed up the process and save on reagent usage. Use 10 ml of pool water, 1 drop of R-0007, 3 drops of R-0008, and multiply the number of drops of R-0009 by 25 to get your TA level.
R-0007 is thiosulfate, used to neutralize chlorine so it won't interfere with the test. Extra R-0007 can be added when the FC level is very high to help prevent the dye from bleaching out.
R-0008 is total alkalinity indicator, an organic dye used to provide the green/red color. It should be a dark green color. If the dye stains the plastic bottle it is stored in, it has gone bad.
R-0009 is sulfuric acid, used to titrate until the color changes.
The precision of the measurement is plus or minus one drop when up to 10 drops of titrant are used, or plus or minus 10% of the final reading, when more than 10 drops of titrant are used.

These are available in this thread: extended-test-kit-directions-t25081.html
 

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