In a Pool Fight

jblizzle said:
The part we are struggling with is that you say you met the 3 shocking requirements (CC<0.5, OCLT<1, water clear), but then turn around and say the water is cloudy. Which is it?

Was the water clear and then you let the FC drop to 4 and now it is cloudy again?

It never got clear.. but the drop test is dead on...which mean i have no no need to keep shocking it.. I think thats what i learned here..If not some one let me know.. Kept shock up for 2 weeks before it tested less then 1 over night,,
 
The important part of the shocking process is to KEEP THE POOL AT SHOCK LEVEL OF CL the entire time until the three criteria are met. Not boost it up once or twice and then expect it to clear up. Keep adding over and over and over and over.... Keeping it elevated for as long as it takes. This can take a lot of chlorine but it's how it's done.

You have posted several times that FC was at 4. Are you then immediately adding enough bleach to bring it back up to your shock cl level?and then testing again in a cpl hours and adding more if it has declined? That is what should be happening. Over and over.....
 
Lershac said:
The important part of the shocking process is to KEEP THE POOL AT SHOCK LEVEL OF CL the entire time until the three criteria are met. Not boost it up once or twice and then expect it to clear up. Keep adding over and over and over and over.... Keeping it elevated for as long as it takes. This can take a lot of chlorine but it's how it's done.

You have posted several times that FC was at 4. Are you then immediately adding enough bleach to bring it back up to your shock cl level?and then testing again in a cpl hours and adding more if it has declined? That is what should be happening. Over and over.....


I kept it at over 20 for 2 weeks... lowest it got was 14.. It was green as green when i started.. killed every thing in it..
 
jck said:
I kept it at over 20 for 2 weeks... lowest it got was 14.. It was green as green when i started.. killed every thing in it..

Now we are getting more info...

So it has never gotten clear?

And you stopped?

Is that not one of the three criteria?

So why did you stop?

Have you cleaned the filter? Sounds to me that your filtration is poor. Check the sand to see if it's channelled and not filtering?
 
:wave: jck, not trying to jump on you here, we want to help you be done with this.
jck said:
I kept it at over 20 for 2 weeks... lowest it got was 14.. It was green as green when i started.. killed every thing in it..
This statement is not true. You did not keep it above 20 for 2 weeks as shown by your own numbers you shared previuosly. In fact you were down to 10 ppm FC then 4 ppm FC which just opened up the door for those algae to come back in. My experience is too much seesawing and much of your effort and chlorine in your pool is wasted.

How sure are you of the 30 ppm cya measurement, how are you testing?

For cya of 30 ppm your minimum shock level is 13 ppm per poolcalculator.com. Never go below 13 ppm until you pass all three criteria zea mentions:

zea3 said:
Measure the FC level
Add enough chlorine to bring FC up to shock level (or a little higher)
Repeat steps 1 and 2 as frequently as practical, but not more than once per hour, and not less than twice a day, until:
1. CC is 0.5 or lower;
2. An overnight FC loss test shows a loss of 1.0 ppm or less;
3. And the water is clear.
Brush the entire pool once a day
Backwash or clean the filter as needed

Okay...clean slate :) ...start the process again. I would suggest you report your test values to us daily and lets kick some algae butt :twisted:
 
Have a TF 100 test kit

check pool in the am an it was at FC 8 added 2.5 galls of chlorine 12% from ace..to bring it up to 20


Mid days test results..
fc 16.5
cc .5
tc 16.5
ph 7.8
ta 100
ch 100
cya 35

I know you are trying to help... Thanks

adding a gallon right now should bring it back up over 20.. will retest in about 4 are 5 hours
 
Plan sounds good, poolcalculator is giving me a minimum shocking FC of 14 ppm for 35 ppm cya, so I think you levels are fine. You should only need to test FC and CC right now during the shocking process. Let us know what your new FC and CC values are at your next dosing.
 
You need to take a final reading AFTER adding that last gallon of chlorine, so that you know exactly what the PM level is, to compare directly with the AM level tomorrow morning.

You could guess at the amount you've added with that last dose, but variances in chlorine strength, etc., can vary the true value.
 

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Ohm_Boy said:
You need to take a final reading AFTER adding that last gallon of chlorine, so that you know exactly what the PM level is, to compare directly with the AM level tomorrow morning.

You could guess at the amount you've added with that last dose, but variances in chlorine strength, etc., can vary the true value.


will do..
 
That sounds good. Pretty sure he meant morning with the 'm'.

That's GREAT as it indicates your algae are dead, and probably all white... Keep it there at the same level while your filter gets the algae remains out of the water for you.

You have a sand filter? Check your sand and make sure it's not developed channels that let the water flow through without having to be drawn THROUGH the sand and be filtered. How is your pressure on the filter!

Doing great, just sit back with a beverage and let the equipment do its work!
 
duraleigh said:
I don't know what "m #s" means but your test results indicate good things.

1. You lost no chlorine overnight

2. YOur CC's are zero


How does your water look?

Am #s sorry..

It is alot clearer this morning.. I vacuumed last night.. even got in the pool with just the hose an got the stuff the vaccum missed.. Think Im heading in the right direction now..

Thanks guys..
 
Lershac said:
That sounds good. Pretty sure he meant morning with the 'm'.

That's GREAT as it indicates your algae are dead, and probably all white... Keep it there at the same level while your filter gets the algae remains out of the water for you.

You have a sand filter? Check your sand and make sure it's not developed channels that let the water flow through without having to be drawn THROUGH the sand and be filtered. How is your pressure on the filter!

Doing great, just sit back with a beverage and let the equipment do its work!

pressure is at 12 ..... how do I check the sand?
 
Depends on the equipment. Can you post a pic. One of the whole pad and one of the label on your equipment? I will try to find you a manual.

Awesome that it is a lot clearer. Vacuuming helps a lot. What pressure do you normally backwash at?
 
Lershac said:
Depends on the equipment. Can you post a pic. One of the whole pad and one of the label on your equipment? I will try to find you a manual.

Awesome that it is a lot clearer. Vacuuming helps a lot. What pressure do you normally backwash at?


No camera Listen to jason an wait till it goes up about 10 think thats what i saw him post..

Ill dig around for the Manuel.. Changed sand last year.. also..
 

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