Hit a snag trying to replace Intermatic timers HELP!

[tezarc]

Hello everyone.

After 20+ years of flawless operation the Intermatic timer controlling my pool pump stopped working. The local pool supply guy first advised trying WD-40, and when that didn't work, sold me a new timer. I figured out how to wire the new timer (T104 240V) from the old timer (T103 120V), but there are two extra parts inside the sub-box that I've never seen before.

The first one is this yellow resistor(?) soldered between terminal 1 and terminal 3 of the old Intermatic timer.

The second is this black cylinder connected to terminal 1 of the timer and the neutral bus.

Below are pics inside the sub-box with the new timer and black cylinder still connected, and the printed sticker inside the sub-box door.

The local pool guy was of no help. Does anyone know what these do inside the box? Do I need them for proper operation of the pump?

Thanks in advance.

 

[JohnT]

Welcome to TFP!

The yellow thing looks like a capacitor. Probably to reduce arcing on the contacts.

 

[Bama Rambler]

The yellow thing is definitely a capacitor. It's a Mallory .56UF microfarad cap. It's used as a snubber to help protect the contacts when the pump starts and stops. The black thing is a MOV. It's used as transient protection from spikes and lightning. You don't absolutely need either but they help. I'd leave the MOV (black thing) as it is and add the cap back like it was.

 

[tezarc]

Thank you for the replies. Now that I know what these are supposed to do I can read up on them and put them back into the box. Thanks again!

 

[Ohm_Boy]

The yellow component appears to be a capacitor. A Metallized Polyester Film Capacitor, if I'm not mistaken. The black can is probably a surge suppressor.

 

[CraigMW]

This unit also has an X10 compatible switch that controls the GFCI socket that emerges from the side of the panel box. This would be for controlling the pool light(s) using an X10 control system through the power line. The .56 microfarad capacitor could indeed be for reducing contact arcing, but it also acts to tie the power line signals across each 120V leg of the sevice line. This is so that the X10 signals can function on both legs of the 220V line coming into the panel so that the switch will respond to the X10 regardless of which pole the X10 controller is plugged into. I would image that this panel was probably shipped with an X10 time clock or remote contol that would plug into a standard 120V outlet somewhere in the house. BTW, the switch is the box with the pushbutton on the lower right corner of the panel. Note that the panel provides a 20A 220V breaker to power the pump and a 15A breaker (with the blue paddle) to power the X10 switch and GFCI protected lighting outlet. You can get rid of the switch and wire the GFCI outlet directly from the 15A breaker by running the yellow wire coming out of the blue breaker direct to the line side of the GFCI outlet. Run a white neutral wire between the neutral bar just below the timer and the neutral terminal opposite the line wire on the GFCI outlet. Then you can control the light by plugging it into the outlet. If you wanted, you could replace the X10 switch with a standard 120V light switch (the kind with a paddle, not Decora style), and then be able to switch the light on and off at the panel.

If the old timer called for 120V and the new one requires 220V to operate, don't you have to wire the motor terminals to each of the 220V legs? This is probably specified in the directions for the timer. But, this wiring scheme would be different than for the 120V timer.

 

[CraigMW]

You should probably replace the 220V 20A breaker in the box with a GFCI protected one. They are relatively expensive (about $65 from Home Depot), but provide ground fault protection for the pump, a good idea to prevent electrocution of people in the pool if there is a fault in the pool motor. GFCI breakers are required by code for pool pumps these days and a good idea around water in general. The same would be true for a heater, SWCG, or any other device in contact with the water flow around a pool.

 

[geno_3245]

From what I can see, the old clock motor was 240Volts, and timer mechanism was T104M. (M stands for mechanism only)
This is because the power supply wires are connected to terminals 1 and 3 typically found with T104, and not terminals 1 and A typically found with T103M

Look at clock motor on back of old timer.
If clock motor is WG1570, then supply voltage for old clock is 120Volt
If clock motor is WG1573, then supply voltage for old clock is 240Volt

http://waterheatertimer.org/Intermatic- ... .html#T100

If timer dial is not rotating, and manual override lever still works and snaps crisp and clean, then order replacement clock motor, and that might repair timer.
Timer dial is connected to metal gears that can benefit from white grease. The clock motor gears are usually plastic, so clock motor gears tend to wear out before metal gears that rotate dial.
If dial is rotating, and keeping good time, but trippers are not clicking override lever back and forth, then order new 156T1978 trippers.
If override lever is sluggish and will not operate crisply, then try WD-40, otherwise timing mechanism needs replacement. Order T104M, or use mechanism fromT104 timer. Usually the whole timer sells for less than the mechanism.

 

[tezarc]

Thank you for everyone's suggestions. I've already installed the MOV and the capacitor back into the box, and the pump and new timer are operating normally.
I tried getting a GFI circuit breaker for the pump as CraigMW suggested, but looks like the local Home Depot and Lowes don't stock them. Any suggestions as to where I can source them online?