Switching from single speed pump to variable speed pump

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InvaderZim

InvaderZim

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Bronze Supporter
Apr 13, 2008
70
Austin, TX
The motor in my filter pump failed last week and I need to replace it. I figured this was a good time to switch from a single speed pump (a Jandy JHP 2.0) to a variable speed pump -- partially to save energy, and partially to reduce the noise, especially when the system goes into freeze mode for a few nights in the winter.

My equipment is all Jandy stuff, including the Aqualink RS OneTouch (the control panel says Model 8158 type RS-4 Combo Firmware L) with a SpaLink but no PDA. The pool is salt water, 26,000 gallons and has a Polaris 280 bottom feeder thingie with a separate booster pump.

I looked briefly at making this change in the past, but Jandy/Zodiac didn't offer a pump and I was told the Pentair (only pump available at the time) wasn't really compatible -- I'd have to program everything twice. Now that my hand is forced, I've been looking at the Jandy JEP 2.0 variable speed pump -- it's on the electric utility rebate list and appears to be compatible.

The main problem is that I can't seem to find anyone who has experience with the Jandy JEP pump. I have to use someone on the city's list of installers (the folks who maintain my pool are not on the list because they don't have the proper electrical license) and the companies on the list with decent BBB ratings (for whatever that's worth) that I've talked to on the phone don't seem to want to deal with the Jandy pump and seem to be pushing the Hayward (not the Pentair); at least one claimed it was much more efficient. Is there something I need to know about the Jandy pump, or is it just too new? I'm considering it mostly because everything else is Jandy and I figure it'll be the most compatible with the Aqualink RS.

I am getting a bid from one company, but the tech didn't inspire confidence when it came to hooking up the new pump, as they sell mostly Hayward. Some plumbing work is also required on the pad, as the current pump is up against the wall and pipes will have to be cut to get it out.

And backing up a bit, would it make sense to use a non-Jandy pump like the Hayward or Pentair -- will they now interface with my control panel? Or should I just spend the $200 now to replace the single-speed Jandy pump and wait for this all to shake out? It's been 5 days and my pool is not looking so good. :-(

Here's a list of the rebate-eligible pumps:
Code: 
Manufacturer        Model (Item Number)
HAYWARD             Eco–Star (SPECOST)
HAYWARD             Eco–Star SVRS (SPECOSVRS)
JANDY               JEP (1.5)
JANDY               JEP (2.0)
STA–RITE (PENTAIR)  Intellipro (VS-3050 & SVRS)
PENTAIR             Intelliflo (VF; VS-3050 & SVRS)
Finally, are my expectations too high about what a variable speed pump will do for me? Will it truly be quiet, and will be it be capable of moving enough water? Again, the local pool folks I talked to don't inspire confidence.

Any advice would be most welcome.
 
As an interested onlooker I'd go with the Jandy. It states on the site that it'll interface with the Aqualink. If you go with it you only have one mfg to deal with and you already know that when there's more than one mfg it's always the other guys stuff causing the problem.
 
I was thinking the same thing about sticking to one brand -- just wish I knew why dealers for the Jandy/Zodiac pump are so hard to find, and have such little experience with the pump. I found that I can buy it on the internet for $950-$1000 and work with my regular pool service company to get it installed (they're Jandy-authorized) -- between us, we should be able to figure it out. But I won't get the $300 utility rebate unless I buy it from someone on the approved list. It still might still turn out to be less expensive to go that route, even after factoring in the $300.
 
I have noticed that stipulation for the rebates in AZ too (although there are no rebates in Tucson :evil: ) The rebate in the rest of the state is $200 ... pretty sure you could save more than that buying online than at the local retail shops with the rebate.
 
Update: the only folks I could find on the utility company list to install the variable speed pump wanted $1700 ($1400 for a pump that's $950 on the internet), plus $300 to install it. Everybody else I called that has a halfway decent BBB rating only deal with Hayward or Pentair and were willing to try to install the Jandy pump but didn't know much about it when questioned. Either that, or they were pool builders that didn't want to deal with it during their "high season" (they'd probably just sub it out anyway).

Separately, I learned that my Aqualink/OneTouch is firmware revision "L" and revision "O" or higher is required to support the VS pump. You'd think that Jandy would have flashable firmware in the box but no -- I'd have to buy a new logic board for $600 and pay to have it installed. That is supremely irritating and now I'm looking at $2300 to replace the pump (the $300 rebate doesn't make that much better). So I asked my regular pool guy to replace the failed pump ($500 installed) and I'll revisit this at some point in the future -- I'd make some of that back with power savings but my pool is filling up with pollen and oak leaves, so I have to take action now.
 
Thanks for the tip -- actually, I'm still considering a two-speed motor -- my pool guy is checking to see if it that might be an option since he can't replace the motor until Wednesday because of scheduling; the old motor is right up against the wall so some plumbing work will be necessary, and with huge storms approaching this evening, that might get delayed further. Still, the additonal cost for a two-speed motor isn't that much but it's a different brand, so I want to make sure it's no louder when in "high speed" mode than the motor we have now.
 
Low speed will be less noisy than high speed and not much louder than a VS on low speed. Plus you will get close to the same economic benefit with a two speed.
 
Howdy!

An update: we went with a two-speed pump, and it is a lot quieter in low speed mode. It turned out that our Jandy controller did not have any extra positions for "low speed mode" (it's was an RS5) but our pool service company gave us a great deal on "adding a chip" to make it an RS9 because they felt like they should have checked first. So it all worked out. We run the pump in low speed from 8-12am and high speed from 12-5pm; the cleaner runs during part of that time and the chlorine generator is making plenty of chlorine at 50% (it's a salt water pool).

There was one question: when in low speed mode, the water level in the pump pot drops after a few minutes -- it's usually completely full with just a tiny air bubble at the top of the transparent plastic lid. But when in low speed mode, the level drops to the level of the inlet, and I can see a jet of water being drawn in. Water is definitely moving, as I can see the jets moving water in the pool. Also, at the junction where the pipes go in to the heater, there's a rattling sound, presumably trapped air.

So, is this normal or is it a sign that there's an air leak somewhere around the pump pot? There's no obvious leak -- the platform is always bone dry and in high speed mode, the pot is full of water to the top.

Thanks as always for the advice.
 
You probably have an air leak somewhere. Sometimes on low speed, the pump lid does not seal as well as when on high speed plus low speed does not have enough flow rate to push the air out so it tends to accumulate. So you could try some pool lube on the pump lid seal to see if that helps. Also, make sure the pump lid is fully seated.
 

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Thanks! The pump does start on high speed -- the control panel says something like a "safety delay" before it switches to low speed after a few minutes. So the pot is full of water when it starts (it primes in seconds at high speed), but gradually drains down after switching to low speed. I did replace the o-ring on the pump lid a few weeks ago (Jandy is proud of those babies -- $26!) and put some sillicone goop on it that the pool supply store sold me. I agree that's where the air leak could be as I can sometimes hear a soft whistling from that area when the pump shuts off. I'll redo that seal and see if it helps. I do like running the pump in low speed in the mornings, as my neighbors probably appreciate it. And hopefully I can run it in low speed next winter when it goes into freeze protection mode for a few nights each year.
 
You will always get some air in the pump strainer basket on low speed. It should never get to more than about half air unless there is a leak. As you and mas985 have concluded, you almost certainly have an air leak somewhere, but I just want to make sure you know that there will still be some air in the strainer basket after the pump has been running on low for a while even if you solve the leak issue.
 
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