Need Help with Opening Pool
- Thread starter dbabz31
- Start date
Ok, so I just dont think that the filter is clearing the cloudiness in the water. we did wash the filter out, the pressure does not change. I would think all the shocking would increase the pressure if the filter is trapping the dead algae. I guess I will keep shocking.
no i have never done that, if we add it and it doesn't need it, will it hurt the filter? How long should I give my filter to clear the cloudiness. I cannot believe how much chlorine I have put in the pool and it is not clear yet. Earlier today I tested the water.
FC= 35
CC=0
ph= 7.0
I added "ph increase" and just now added some more chlorine because I know that the water needs to pass the three things to consider the shocking process done. Is it possible that the high levels of chlorine can cause cloudiness? And why is my ph low if high levels of FC are supposed to given false high readings? I am scared that my PH is lower than what I am getting when I test it.
FC= 35
CC=0
ph= 7.0
I added "ph increase" and just now added some more chlorine because I know that the water needs to pass the three things to consider the shocking process done. Is it possible that the high levels of chlorine can cause cloudiness? And why is my ph low if high levels of FC are supposed to given false high readings? I am scared that my PH is lower than what I am getting when I test it.
I did overnight test and it seems that I am not done with shocking. I did the morning test a little late
But I know that there could not be that much lost in the short time that it was light out. I have had shock levels that have been well over 30 at all times. Sometimes even 50's. so I am guessing my cya is high. I redid cya last night though and it was 80 to 90 ( did it three times). CC was o.5 this am so I will just keep shocking and brushing. Probably need to get some DE. Is that what it is called in the stores?
But I know that there could not be that much lost in the short time that it was light out. I have had shock levels that have been well over 30 at all times. Sometimes even 50's. so I am guessing my cya is high. I redid cya last night though and it was 80 to 90 ( did it three times). CC was o.5 this am so I will just keep shocking and brushing. Probably need to get some DE. Is that what it is called in the stores?
Well, at least you know you are still killing stuff and that will still be producing dean algae carcasses that will need to be filtered out.
DE= Diatomaceous Earth saying either should work, make sure it is for pools and not gardening DE.
DE= Diatomaceous Earth saying either should work, make sure it is for pools and not gardening DE.
FC last night which my husband did was 43.5
this morning
FC=44.5 (i am guessing the inconsistency is due to me doing the test today)
CC=1
and PH=7.0! it was higher last night. I am scared about the ph reading so low and thinking that it should be false high which means it is probably a lot lower than 7. I don't understand why my pool has not gotten any better yet. What can I do to keep my ph up? I will test TA but I have never really adjusted that. I will try to get DE today. I will read how to add it, but anyone have ideas as to what I need to have my TA at?
this morning
FC=44.5 (i am guessing the inconsistency is due to me doing the test today)
CC=1
and PH=7.0! it was higher last night. I am scared about the ph reading so low and thinking that it should be false high which means it is probably a lot lower than 7. I don't understand why my pool has not gotten any better yet. What can I do to keep my ph up? I will test TA but I have never really adjusted that. I will try to get DE today. I will read how to add it, but anyone have ideas as to what I need to have my TA at?
Per the extended-test-kit-directions-t25081.html
High FC levels will throw off the test results. The Taylor pH reagent is compensated up to an FC level of 10. When FC is beween 10 and 20 the test will read higher than actual, the reading will be off by more at higher the FC levels. At FC levels somewhat above 20 the phenol red converts to chlorphenol red and will read as 8.2 at any plausible pH level. Chlorphenol red is sometimes used to measure pH levels between 5.2 and 6.6. Some other brands start having problems at much lower FC levels.
I think you need to stop worrying about PH, as at your current shock levels you have no idea what it really is. Maybe i'm wrong, but i don't see how you can adjust it if you can't test it. Are you assuming the additional chlorine you are adding is driving down PH?
High FC levels will throw off the test results. The Taylor pH reagent is compensated up to an FC level of 10. When FC is beween 10 and 20 the test will read higher than actual, the reading will be off by more at higher the FC levels. At FC levels somewhat above 20 the phenol red converts to chlorphenol red and will read as 8.2 at any plausible pH level. Chlorphenol red is sometimes used to measure pH levels between 5.2 and 6.6. Some other brands start having problems at much lower FC levels.
I think you need to stop worrying about PH, as at your current shock levels you have no idea what it really is. Maybe i'm wrong, but i don't see how you can adjust it if you can't test it. Are you assuming the additional chlorine you are adding is driving down PH?
yes but i don't know if that is true. I f high FC levels cause false high ph then why is mine reading low? Isn't it possible that my ph could be much lower than what it is reading?
I believe you haven't done a drain/refill yet? The last cya test you had was ~100 ppm if I remember correctly?
I personally would have done a drain/refill before starting the shocking process, but now might be a good time for you to do it and get down below 50 ppm cya, and while your doing that, let your FC drop to 10 ppm to check your ph. Do you know what you fill water ph is?
As your doing the drain/refill, you could also manually vacuum the bottom to waste in case there is a lot of junk down there.
I personally would have done a drain/refill before starting the shocking process, but now might be a good time for you to do it and get down below 50 ppm cya, and while your doing that, let your FC drop to 10 ppm to check your ph. Do you know what you fill water ph is?
As your doing the drain/refill, you could also manually vacuum the bottom to waste in case there is a lot of junk down there.
the last time I checked cya the other day it was 80-90. last year it was around 80 also. We did drain the pool while vacuuming to waste over the weekend and we filled it with water from our hose (well water, and turned softner off while doing so.) so I don't know the ph of that water. I truly feel like our filter is not working because the psi has never increased even after with strting the process. I will retest everything today and post numbers.
Don't worry about the PH right now - focus on the FC and clearing the water. when you vac to waste are you seeing solids at the end of the hose? Just wondering since it's so cloudy if solids like leaves, etc are continuing to cause the cloudiness and the high CC. You are dividing by 2 when you count the drops, right? Try the DE.
When i vaccumed yesterday to waste i did see lots of worms and dead bugs that i could not see at the bottom with the naked eye. I did lose chlorine over night so i know that i am not done with the shock process. I wish I could get in the pool and take out the light under the diving board because I have found the last years that that has dead algae and sometimes a little algae behind it. but I cant reach the bottom screw to do it. I truly feel like the filter is not working properly. has anyone ever tried FLOC? just wondering if I should give it a try before I try to determine what could be wrong. I honestly feel like what i think is algae could be sand. I have noticed when I brush the pool that there are spots that keep accumulating the same stuff all the time (seems of liner and spots where the liner is a little wrinkled). The stuff is easily moved just by movin the water around it. It looks beige/grey when I do disrupt it. I can see the bottom drains better today, but it is really sunny too today. Also when I brush the pool, it seems like by the time I get around the pool, some stuff has settle back to the same spots. Just wondering if there is anything I can add to the pool that would increase the efficiency of the filter. And where do I start as far as trouble shooting the filter?
I really appreciate everyone's input. I am really hoping that after this year I will have mastered this whole thing. It does become very confusing when the pool guys tell you one thing and this website tells you other things. You would think that if a pool store and installation business has been around for so many years that they would have an idea as to the problems that may arise in certain areas. Thanks again. So should I try FLOC? OR DE? whats the difference?
I really appreciate everyone's input. I am really hoping that after this year I will have mastered this whole thing. It does become very confusing when the pool guys tell you one thing and this website tells you other things. You would think that if a pool store and installation business has been around for so many years that they would have an idea as to the problems that may arise in certain areas. Thanks again. So should I try FLOC? OR DE? whats the difference?
I don't recommend Floc. Try the DE first. DE coats the top of the sand with a layer of the finer substance that is DE so that it traps finer particles like dead algae that may be passing through your sand. Have you opened up the top of the filter to look at the sand and see if its channeled?
In the event you do go the Floc route - never, ever, ever use Floc if you haven't completed the shocking process with a confirmed test showing the FC is holding overnight. You will be wasting your money.
In the event you do go the Floc route - never, ever, ever use Floc if you haven't completed the shocking process with a confirmed test showing the FC is holding overnight. You will be wasting your money.
FPM, beat me...heres my take:
If stuff is sitting on the bottom, it needs to be stirred up for the filter to have a chance at it.
Until you are done with at least OCLT<1 ppm, and CC<0.5 ppm I would probably wait on the DE or floc. Once you pass those two tests, then I would try DE next, it can work wonders on a sand filter to clear the dead algae carcases. Lastly, if you want, you can try a floc at that point...realize the many flocs instruct to let the flocked debris fall to the bottom with the pump off for a number of hours, so if your not completely done killing the organics in your pool, you risk a comeback.
If stuff is sitting on the bottom, it needs to be stirred up for the filter to have a chance at it.
Until you are done with at least OCLT<1 ppm, and CC<0.5 ppm I would probably wait on the DE or floc. Once you pass those two tests, then I would try DE next, it can work wonders on a sand filter to clear the dead algae carcases. Lastly, if you want, you can try a floc at that point...realize the many flocs instruct to let the flocked debris fall to the bottom with the pump off for a number of hours, so if your not completely done killing the organics in your pool, you risk a comeback.
pool has looked great for a couple of weeks now. (hope I am not jinxing myself) I waited until I passed the over night test and added floc. I saw results fast and the pressure on my filter rose so I am now confident that that was the problem. Thanks again for all the suggestions and information. Amazing how when I go to the pool store I hear people talking about problems they are having. I told the one lady about this website. Hope she used you guys because you guys have sure helped me. Thanks again.