Testing Questions...

msujohn

0
LifeTime Supporter
Jun 10, 2011
70
Frisco, Texas
I finally will complete my build tomorrow and will start to put water into the pool. We can't wait. But, I have a few questions. I already bought the TF-100 test kit.

For these chlorine tests? Do I test them all? How often do I test each of them? Do I just focus on my FC?
- FAS - DPD (FC/CC)
- OTO (Total Chlorine)
- DPD Chlorine Test (FC/TC)
- K1000 Chorine Test


All the other tests (below) seem straight forward - I just don't know how often?

- PH - I'm assuming I will do this on a regular basis daily in the beginning. So I only use the R14 bottle (came with K1000 kit). The extended directions also mention the option of a R4 drop - I didn't get that with my test kit?

- TA - How often?
- CH - How often?
- CYA - How often?
- Salt - How often?

I have been reading the extended directions for these tests as well and have them all printed out ready to go.
 
msujohn said:
I finally will complete my build tomorrow and will start to put water into the pool. We can't wait. But, I have a few questions. I already bought the TF-100 test kit.

For these chlorine tests? Do I test them all? How often do I test each of them? Do I just focus on my FC?
- FAS - DPD (FC/CC)
- OTO (Total Chlorine)
- DPD Chlorine Test (FC/TC)
- K1000 Chorine Test


All the other tests (below) seem straight forward - I just don't know how often?

- PH - I'm assuming I will do this on a regular basis daily in the beginning. So I only use the R14 bottle (came with K1000 kit). The extended directions also mention the option of a R4 drop - I didn't get that with my test kit?

- TA - How often?
- CH - How often?
- CYA - How often?
- Salt - How often?

I have been reading the extended directions for these tests as well and have them all printed out ready to go.

Here is how I do it during pool season:
FAS - DPD (FC/CC) Weekly
- OTO (Total Chlorine)Daily
- DPD Chlorine Test (FC/TC)Weekly
- K1000 Chorine Test same as OTO I do PH daily.

What I do, for the others:

- TA - How often? Weekly
- CH - How often?Quarterly
- CYA - How often?Quarterly
- Salt - How often?Quarterly

This assumes I had them where I wanted them the week or quarter before. If I make adjustments, I usually check to see if I hit my target.

You might try searching the forums for forms or instructions, I think I saw a few that might be of use to you. Other members did some (IMO) fine work on these and have helped me stay on track.

A lot depends on your situation, if you use pucks, then you might test cya more frequently. IF you have a vinyl liner, you may test CH less frequently. Others will be along with suggestions.
 
Buford beat me to it...but I will post my take anyways...
msujohn said:
For these chlorine tests? Do I test them all? How often do I test each of them? Do I just focus on my FC?
- FAS - DPD (FC/CC)
- OTO (Total Chlorine)
- DPD Chlorine Test (FC/TC)
- K1000 Chorine Test
Start with for fine tuning your chlorine additions use the FAS-DPD (it is most accurate). Test daily until you have it under control. How are you planning on chlorinating? Once you have figured out your dosing and schedule, you can probably primarily test with OTO and use FAS-DPD once a week and when you have problems.

msujohn said:
All the other tests (below) seem straight forward - I just don't know how often?

- PH - I'm assuming I will do this on a regular basis daily in the beginning. So I only use the R14 bottle (came with K1000 kit). The extended directions also mention the option of a R4 drop - I didn't get that with my test kit?
Test daily until you have it under control. Then decide how often you need it (I test every couple of days).

msujohn said:
- TA - How often?
- CH - How often?
- CYA - How often?
- Salt - How often?
These can be tested less often. TA and CH can be tested soon after fill. CYA should be tested about a week after adding since it takes awhile to desolve. Salt should be tested a day two after adding. See: http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-school/basic_pool_care_schedule
 
Thanks Linen, I missed the "ramp up", which is very important.

I also missed this question:
The R-0004 is for a different kit (or comparator "block") and is a different strength. It is made by Taylor and used for the same purpose, which is probably why it was mentioned in the instructions you read. Unless you have the comparator, I would just use R-0014.
 
msujohn said:
I plan to use my rainbow 320 to chlorinate for the first 30 days and then switch to my SWCG (Aquapure 1400). Once I do the switch and I have all my numbers aligned I will add borax.
What is your pool surface? EDIT: I see the pebble sheen in your sig now... then that makes sense (the Trichlor). It might be best to separate only the pucks you need to get to your desired CYA level...just so you don't overdo it :wink: Remember Trichlor lowers ph and TA, so keep an eye on those.
 
msu john,

Test your fill water for CH, pH and TA as it's going in. You will have no CYA, salt or Chlorine until you put it in there so no need to test.

Use the pool calculator to calc the dosages required to bring your salt up to the level for your SWG and then test to see how accurate you are. Repeat same for CYA bringing it up to 60 for now.

Chlorine and pH will be biggest variables. Other parameters will remain fairly stable.
 
Thanks for all the responses. I think I understand what i need to do in the short term now. Would it be better for me just to use liquid bleach until I get my SWCG going? I was thinking the pucks would help me with CYA as well and it will only be for 30 days.
 
msujohn said:
Thanks for all the responses. I think I understand what i need to do in the short term now. Would it be better for me just to use liquid bleach until I get my SWCG going? I was thinking the pucks would help me with CYA as well and it will only be for 30 days.
You're going to need CYA anyway, use the pucks. I would. Somewhere on Pool Calculator it will tell you the effects of adding so much Trichlor, based on your volume. So don't buy a 100 pound drum if 30 pounds of pucks will get you where you want to be. It might not hurt to keep a few gallons of chlorine around, in case the pucks don't dissolve as fast as you need. Not too much, though, it does have a shelf life.

CYA can get tested when you're about 3/4 of the way through your calculated Trichlor. No point wasting reagent until you have something to see.

I suspect you'll end up testing everything else every day, just like the rest of us did when we got our new toy! :testkit:

Keep a log. As you see the effects and changes and the pattern, you'll get to know your pool's personality. By then, much of the novelty will have worn off, and you'll have a feel for how often you'll need to test.

The OTO test is pretty much a waste of time when you're using the FAS-DPD test. I use it just to burn up reagent and see if I'm getting any better at color matching. Usually I'm within 1 ppm, which isn't close enough for my tastes.
 
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