O-Ring leaking........

[Butterfly]

Our O-Ring is leaking. Pressure is normal. Does this mean that we need to replace the O-Ring?

Also, while I am at it, "when" are you suppose to use the "manual air relief cap"?

Joyce

 

[JohnT]

The O-ring on the pump strainer basket lid? Lubricating the O-ring can help prevent it from being distorted while tightening the lid.

 

[Butterfly]

.........based on the specs/pics*, the o-ring that looks like it fits between the filter tank head (top) and the filter tank botton. Just where the top and bottom are fastened together with lots and lots of screws/bolts.

*The specs/pics I am using as a guide are for the Hayward S200 High-Rate Sand Filter because I could not find the specs for the S240 that we have. According to the specs/pics of the S200, it is part #SX20027. Sorry, I am just now realizing that we have many o-rings on this thingie.

Joyce

 

[duraleigh]

Hi, Joyce,

Pretty sure you're talking about the Oring that connects the two halves of the filter. Mine doesn't have that but it would seem to me there's very little that could deteriorate there because it's not exposed to any sunlight or weather. My guess would be it's been pinched or kinked during installation.

Never changed one but it would be pretty simple (or it would seem so) to take the filter apart in halves and inspect that ring. By the time I got that far, I'm pretty sure I would put a new one in there. That a very popular filter so Hayward tech support should be able to tell you any tricks about putting it back together.......may even be instructions online.

Dave

 

[waste]

Hi Joyce

Have you tried tightening the bolts that hold the top and bottom together? The bolts they use for them are 'stolen' from the EC - DE filter line so the size should be 7/16" for nut and bolt (if it's older one is 7/16 and the nut is 3/8
) - do this with the filter off and see if it still leaks when the filter is fired up again. There is a little typo in the part # you gave it's SX200Z7 not SX20027, I'd say the cause of the typo was the source you got the # from (happens all the time, I've seen it on some of the parts we stock in our store ).

If just tightening the bolts doesn't work, let me know and I'll tell you how to properly take one apart, change the o-ring and put it back together - last time I read Hayward's suggestion on how to - they were wrong. (specifically on how to reassemble the unit and tighten the bolts)

Dave -- call Hayward tech support! :?: :?: :?: why mess with those wanks when she has access to TFP "Ted" support? hmmm :!: (see if I send you a birthday card this year )

 

[duraleigh]

Hey, Ted,

We needed the TFP Tech Guru (that's you) all afternoon. I was hoping you'd post to this one and there's a couple of more here today that your "hands-on" experience will be very helpful.

Okay, Okay, no more hayward tech support but you're gonna' have to quit your day job and hang out here all day like the rest of us ne'er-do-wells. :lol: :lol:

 

[waste]

Message (or is that ego massage) received! I actually worked for my pool co 9 hours today :thumbdown: (I'll tell y'all - 4 months of sitting at the computer is poor training for going back to physical labor ) Fortunately, I shouldn't be going back to full time for another 10 days

Kidding aside, Joyce - I'm here every day but in the 'heat of the season' it may take longer for me to respond

 

[Butterfly]

Hi Ted & Dave and THANKS!!! :-D


waste Posted: Thu Mar 13, 2008 7:29 pm Post subject:

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hi Joyce
Have you tried tightening the bolts that hold the top and bottom together?

Yes, used a 7/16" on the nut. Seemed to tighten. Still leaks. Are we suppose to use TWO wrenches when tightening?

The bolts they use for them are 'stolen' from the EC - DE filter line so the size should be 7/16" for nut and bolt (if it's older one is 7/16 and the nut is 3/8 ) - do this with the filter off and see if it still leaks when the filter is fired up again. There is a little typo in the part # you gave it's SX200Z7 not SX20027, I'd say the cause of the typo was the source you got the # from (happens all the time, I've seen it on some of the parts we stock in our store ).

Actually, it was MY typo (wasn't wearing my glasses) & we have a S-240 High Rate Sand, 300# &, after further searching I think the part # is SX240Z1. We think it is original w/pool, 1992. PB replaced sand 2 yrs ago & it has just started leaking.

If just tightening the bolts doesn't work, let me know and I'll tell you how to properly take one apart, change the o-ring and put it back together - last time I read Hayward's suggestion on how to - they were wrong. (specifically on how to reassemble the unit and tighten the bolts)

Tightening did not work. Awaiting instructions from tfp guru tech support!


Thanks, Ted.

Joyce

 

[flintstone]

Did you recently remove the o-ring for service? I had a very small yet perceptible leak in my filter at the large o-ring when I last cleaned my cartridge filter. I re-installed with no change. After a week or so, it stopped leaking.

 

[Butterfly]

Did you recently remove the o-ring for service? I had a very small yet perceptible leak in my filter at the large o-ring when I last cleaned my cartridge filter. I re-installed with no change. After a week or so, it stopped leaking.

Hi Flintstone,

No, we have not touched the system except to tighten those nuts. PB removed it in Spring '06, to replace sand.

Also, "when" are you suppose to use the "manual air relief cap"? :?

So many questions, and yet so much help!! Thanks for chiming in.

Joyce

 

[duraleigh]

Hi, Joyce,

If it's what I think it is, (small screw valve near the top of the filter) it is simply to let the air out as the filter fills up with water. It's logical that it may help somewhat on priming and will keep from blowing so many bubbles in the pool each time you prime. Unless you lose prime or have to drain your filter, you will keep it closed.

As the filter fills, be ready to close it off quickly....it will spit water....lot's of it.

(Darn, I was counting stacks of $100's and this made me lose track! :lol: :lol: )

 

[waste]

I use 2 wrenches if the head of the bolt is slipping - I 'back up' the bolt with my finger which is usually enough to keep it from spinning as I tighten the nut, but if I feel it turn, I break out the other wrench

The process is easy;

Either kill the pump or turn the multi to 'recirc' (if you want to keep the pool running w/o filtration while you play with the filter)
Open the air relief valve and unscrew the drain plug - let filter drain (you'll never get the top off if it's full of water causing a vacuum)
Open the top dome to be sure that the sand is below the seam - you may have to scoop a little out to get it below the seam -- if it's ~ at the seam, scrape it away from the edge into the center.
While it's draining you can unscrew all the nuts and bolts (tip: reassemble the bolts and nuts with the 2 washers between them - just a couple of turns will do but it keeps those little parts from getting lost - and put them in a pail or cup for safekeeping * some of the washers may have 'bonded' to the bottom, pry them off with a screwdriver)
Remove the top of the unit.
Remove the offending gasket and wipe the seating area (top and bottom) to remove any debris and check the sealing surface for warpage or defects.
Take the new o-ring out of it's bag and lube it with a teflon or silicon based lubricant. (when lubing any o-ring BE SURE JUST TO RUB THE LUBE ONTO IT WITHOUT PULLING NOR STRETCHING IT!!)
Seat the o-ring on the bottom 1/2 of the filter and lower the top on keeping the top as horizontal as you can (before letting the top sit on the new o-ring - sight down the bolt holes so that they line up - the less turning of the top once it's on the o-ring will prevent pinching or buckling of it)


OK here's where Hayward and I differ in our approach:
The bolts- put them in from the bottom - it makes it a lot easier to to do and only tighten them a couple of turns
Once they are all in tighten the first 4 of them in pairs N & S, E&W. Then do the same with NE & SW and NW & SE. Once you establish those 8 points the lid is on with even pressure on the o-ring and the rest can just be tightened in any order

There you go, it's done!! 8)
The last thing to do is replug the bottom drain (a little lube on that gasket is a good idea) and refill the filter with water and smooth out any sand you had to move to get the top off.

As always: if I've been less than clear in my instructions or this has generated further questions, just ask and I'll be here to answer :-D

I hope the new o-ring stops the leak - (I'm ~ sure it will )!

 

[Butterfly]

Hi, Joyce,

If it's what I think it is, (small screw valve near the top of the filter) it is simply to let the air out as the filter fills up with water. It's logical that it may help somewhat on priming and will keep from blowing so many bubbles in the pool each time you prime. Unless you lose prime or have to drain your filter, you will keep it closed.

As the filter fills, be ready to close it off quickly....it will spit water....lot's of it.

Yep, that's what it is. A small screw valve at the top of the filter. Thanks for the info!

(Darn, I was counting stacks of $100's and this made me lose track! :lol: :lol: )

Huh? You got $100's? Are you playing monopoly?

Joyce

 

[Butterfly]

I use 2 wrenches if the head of the bolt is slipping - I 'back up' the bolt with my finger which is usually enough to keep it from spinning as I tighten the nut, but if I feel it turn, I break out the other wrench

Yep, that's what DH did.

The process is easy;

Either kill the pump or turn the multi to 'recirc' (if you want to keep the pool running w/o filtration while you play with the filter)
Open the air relief valve and unscrew the drain plug - let filter drain (you'll never get the top off if it's full of water causing a vacuum)
Open the top dome to be sure that the sand is below the seam - you may have to scoop a little out to get it below the seam -- if it's ~ at the seam, scrape it away from the edge into the center.
While it's draining you can unscrew all the nuts and bolts (tip: reassemble the bolts and nuts with the 2 washers between them - just a couple of turns will do but it keeps those little parts from getting lost - and put them in a pail or cup for safekeeping * some of the washers may have 'bonded' to the bottom, pry them off with a screwdriver)
Remove the top of the unit.
Remove the offending gasket and wipe the seating area (top and bottom) to remove any debris and check the sealing surface for warpage or defects.
Take the new o-ring out of it's bag and lube it with a teflon or silicon based lubricant. (when lubing any o-ring BE SURE JUST TO RUB THE LUBE ONTO IT WITHOUT PULLING NOR STRETCHING IT!!)
Seat the o-ring on the bottom 1/2 of the filter and lower the top on keeping the top as horizontal as you can (before letting the top sit on the new o-ring - sight down the bolt holes so that they line up - the less turning of the top once it's on the o-ring will prevent pinching or buckling of it)


OK here's where Hayward and I differ in our approach:
The bolts- put them in from the bottom - it makes it a lot easier to to do and only tighten them a couple of turns
Once they are all in tighten the first 4 of them in pairs N & S, E&W. Then do the same with NE & SW and NW & SE. Once you establish those 8 points the lid is on with even pressure on the o-ring and the rest can just be tightened in any order

There you go, it's done!! 8)
The last thing to do is replug the bottom drain (a little lube on that gasket is a good idea) and refill the filter with water and smooth out any sand you had to move to get the top off.

As always: if I've been less than clear in my instructions or this has generated further questions, just ask and I'll be here to answer :-D

I hope the new o-ring stops the leak - (I'm ~ sure it will )!

Wow, all that sounds so simple.....we'll see! I will print this off for DH & I to try within the next few days. Gotta' get the o-ring & lube stuff. If we should run into any trouble we'll give a shout.

Thanks so much for your help, Ted :-D

Joyce.

 

[duraleigh]

"$1,000,000, $1,000,100, $1,000,200, $1,000,300..............."

:lol: :lol: :lol:

 

[Butterfly]

"$1,000,000, $1,000,100, $1,000,200, $1,000,300..............."

:lol: :lol: :lol:

Well, since the kits don't cost that much, you MUST be playing monopoly :-D ...or did pay-pal give you some kind of crazy refund on all those $.01 'test test kits'?

Joyce

 

[Butterfly]

Waste , Ted, TFP Guru Tech

I printed your instructions last night and left on kitchen table for DH. First thing he said this morning was:

"Those are the best written instructions I have ever read and I appreciate the time he took to write it. Please THANK HIM for me."

Thank you, Ted! :-D :-D :-D


Joyce

 

[waste]

"De nada"

I just hope he still feels that way after trying to follow them!

I'm about to head out to do a little shopping, I should be back in a couple of hours if you run into any questions while doing the changeout.

 

[Butterfly]

"De nada"

I just hope he still feels that way after trying to follow them!

hahaha

I'm about to head out to do a little shopping, I should be back in a couple of hours if you run into any questions while doing the changeout.

It will be early next week before we have a chance to do the changeout. Currently under tornado watch and took several hours to stow all the outdoor stuff that could become flying missles! Reading about that glass table top in the pool made us take extra precautions with ours.

Thanks again, will be in touch.

Joyce

 

[cliff_s]

Note: ALL O-Rings large and small need a coating of silicon lube(Magic Lube or etc)
when installed. The reason the O-Ring must move very slightly to provide a good seal,
without lube it sticks and won't fill the small holes and then it leaks.

If the O-Ring isn't damaged it probably does not need replacing, a good coat of
lube should make it seal.

Cliff s