Stever's Pool Build

That's what I meant. Keep your autovalve for switching between pool mode and spa mode but add a manual bypass valve for spillover.
 
Ok -- you like pictures? Here's a bunch of pictures from today's shotcreteing:

just starting off -- they started to build up areas that would be thicker.
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Hole though spa wall to lay down concrete in spa -- this was filled later.
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first 'blob' of concrete for entry steps:
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finishing edges:
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steps closer to being done:
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steps pretty much done:
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spa:
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one of 2 benches in deep end:
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spraying for steps in spa:
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A few overall views:
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And this evening after they were all done:
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Spa has step and three seating heights:
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I hope you likes the slide-show. That's all the progress for a while now. I must pick coping out, get deck and fencing subs in line, etc.

Thanks for watching!
 
landmark218 said:
Keep posting. I learn a lot from watching the progress of other builds. Sorry if I missed it but how deep is your pool?

I know the feeling -- I loved looking at other's builds and learned a lot also. It prepared me for mine. It did, however, go much faster than I anticipated. Two weeks from no hole to a gunited pool. Now it'll slow down as it's in my hands more and I am not as fast to make decisions (I have a job.... and it's not pool building).

The pool is 3'6" in the shallow end and 8'-0" at the diving board. Somewhere about 115 linear feet around and 650 or so SF. I estimate about 20,000 gal -- but I haven't run real numbers on it yet. One of these days I'll figure out how to get the capacity accurately!

Steve
 
Update:

Not much going on now, but this week the gas and electric was put in from the house to the equipment pad. The equipment enclosure will start soon (4'x8' x 5' high split-faced CMU). I had an extra 15 amp circuit pulled out to the pool area for the ceiling fan/light and floods (and outlet for the blender) in the future gazebo (I know I won't regret the extra $50 later).

Steve
 

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I believe that it will control two valves standard and can optionally be expanded to control up to five valves (each valve counts against your 7 circuits).

Low voltage lighting can be controlled by any aux circuit.
 
Thanks.

I don't know what comes with it. There seems to be a 'load center' and a 'power center' -- don't know what's standard (if anything). I like automation, but don't quite know what the 7+3 will do for me until I get it in my hands. I don't know what the possible options all are, so don't know what to buy. I saw somewhere that the solar kit is an extra...?

I'll have the following automatic valves:
- pool / spa drain
- pool / spa return
- spa jets
- solar
- heater bypass
- suction side cleaner / skimmer

Other controls:
- pool light control
- spa light control
Also I'd like to controll some low voltage lights.
etc etc etc

I overheard the electrician saying that he has space for 2 breakers totalling 30 amps in the 'box'. Is this the load center or power center? He's using one of the 15 amp breakers for the pool and spa lights and the other is the extra line he pulled for the gazebo lights/fan/outlets.

Is there any optional items I'll need to buy?

Thanks!
 
The only difference between a power center and a load center is that the load center includes an electrical sub-panel and the power center doesn't. If you have breakers in the box you presumably have a load center.

An Aux circuit switches AC power. A Valve circuit controls low voltage valve actuators. I was wrong before, the optional valve circuits don't share relays with the aux circuits.

There are many optional features on the Intellitouch. It gets kind of complicated to keep track of all the possible combinations.
 
Thanks for the info. It perplexes me a bit why the pool company would put in the more expensive solution without being asked.... not that I don't trust them and they have been great to me on this build, but in the spitit of doing business and earning money.... hmmm. Either way, I have been told of the 15 amp pool light circuit and the other 15 amp extra.

How are the pool lights breakered if there is not a load center? Is there a small sub-panel at the pool equipment? If so, maybe this sub-panel is the same $$ as the load center, so they just took care of it all in the automation center....
 
Nice!

Awesome build photos! :lol:
I did have a question regarding your lot - there looked like there was a lot of room in your back yard? Was it not possible for the PB to build the retaining wall further out and then cut the grade down behind it and install the pool flush with your ground level so that you would have full view of your pool? The pool looks fantastic so far! Keep the photos coming.
- John
 
Re: Nice!

newfool said:
Awesome build photos! :lol:
I did have a question regarding your lot - there looked like there was a lot of room in your back yard? Was it not possible for the PB to build the retaining wall further out and then cut the grade down behind it and install the pool flush with your ground level so that you would have full view of your pool? The pool looks fantastic so far! Keep the photos coming.
- John

A mighty good question. The lot is 2/3 acre -- certainly not what most would call small. We are, unfortunately, on septic. Not that I have anything against septic (really keeps the sewer fees down) but it uses up a lot of the lot. I have to have 430 feet (or so) of septic leach field line (chamber system in my case if anybody is interested). Also I must allow for (unbuilt) the same amount of line again for when the main system fails and I must replace in in the 'reserve' area. These lines must be seperated by 10 feet, so that's about 8600 square feet -- if it laid out lice and evenly. It must run perpendicular to the slope (each line level) -- in my case diagonal in the yard -- and have setbacks to the propery line, structure, retaining walls, etc. The septic (or reserve) must be kept 5 times the height of the cut or retaining wall back. In this case that would be 30-35 feet back from the wall if the wall were on the back side. No can do.

I played with different schemes for a few years before I found a way to get a pool in. For the family it was 'pool or move' -- so i found a way. There will be a pad of grass at half the height of the pool at the shallow end of the pool. Steps up to the grass and then a few up to the pool. Not ideal, as it's hard to see the pool from the house -- but it'll work. I will only put a 36" rail on the retaining wall (60" fence required in San Diego) because the wall counts as the barrier.

Steve
 
Progress Report:

Not too much happening. They have put in the electric, gas and stubbed in the solar piping. The equipment enclusure is done and most of the trenches backfilled. I have finished my week of watering the shotcrete and am now going to meet with the pool co to pick a coping and tile. Yes, I know... a little late (my fault).

Pics:

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The pool equip will be partially burried (retaining wall at the back once backfilled). This will be great, except I will not be able to use the CMU as the pool barrier (you could jumb down into the pool equip area) and I will need to somehow fence above the equipment or around it higher on the hill.

Steve
 

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