Just moved in and need Green Pool Help please?

I recently moved in a house that has a pool.
The pool water is like a swamp!
I am looking for the cheapest way to clean it up.
Could you all help me with some advice?

912d9f9.jpg
 
Hi, welcome to TFP! This is what you will need in order to clear your pool:
#1 is a high quality test kit. In order to complete the shock process you will need to test the free chlorine levels (FC) frequently for the first couple of days. We recommend a FAS-DPD test kit such as the Taylor K2006 or the TF 100.

#2 is liquid chlorine and lots of it! Liquid chlorine does not add stabilizer (CYA) or calcium (CA) the way dry chlorine does. Excessive CYA and/or CA levels make it difficult to keep the water balanced, so you don't want to add them if you don't need them. The test kit we recommend also tests these values. You can get liquid chlorine in 10-12% concentration from a pool store, or in 6% concentration from the grocery store. The 6% is also known as plain, unscented bleach found in the laundry aisle.

#3 is information. After testing the water, use The Pool Calculator
to determine how much chlorine you need to reach shock level for your pool. Test the water every couple of hours so you can add enough chlorine to maintain shock level until the process is completed. For more detailed information on the shock process read defeating algae and
how to shock your pool.

#4 is patience. The pool did not turn green overnight, it will not clear overnight. Every pool is different. The shock process may take a few days or in some cases a few weeks to complete. Also it is important not to stop when the water "looks" clear. You will have finished the shock process when you have met all of the following criteria: 1. the water is clear 2. you have .5 ppm or less combined chlorine (CC) 3. you have passed the overnight test with a loss of 1 ppm or less of FC.

Feel free to post any questions you may have. Even though this is our slow time of year, you will still likely get an answer within 24 hours.
 
Hi, James,

Welcome to the forum. :lol: Gaining a thorough understanding of why it's green and the process involved in getting it clear will be the cheapest.

I'm sure you will get suggestions from a pool store for miracle product "X" or magic bullet "Y" that will fix your pool but don't buy into it. You'll be squandering some good cash opting for haste.

Cheap will be to avail yourself of the FREE knowledge up in Pool School and then attacking your pool with the steps zea3 suggests.
 
Welcome! A few things you can do until your test kit arrives. Check your pump and filter to make sure you can properly circulate the water when we get to that point, Clear the top of the water with a skimmer net on a pole. See if you can determine what if anything may be on the bottom of the pool---leaves, sludge, etc.---- that you can fish out. Depending on a CYA test........you may need to drain a lot of water to make it easier to shock. You can get a rough idea from a pool store water sample-------but don't buy anything! Lastly, look for a sale on good old 6% plain jane clorox to pass the time. Edit your signature line in your profile to tell us am much about the pool size and equipment as you know. It will show up at the bottom of every post you make.
 
Thanks for the responses. I have no idea about the type of pool equipment or the size.
I will do some more investigation tomorrow looking for names, models and such.
I will also take more pictures to post in order to share what I find.
I did manage to find the power and turned the pump on.
The pump seemed to be working though there is a crack on the top of something that is spraying water.
Till tomorrow!
Thanks!
 
Yes, mine! Due to a death in the family in October I let my pool maitanance slide and I currently have a very green pool. I know there are a ton of leaves on the bottom. I started the shock process over the weekend but due to yesterday's excessive rains I have to start over. If I have time this evening I will start a new thread journaling the shock process.
 
Yeah, everyone here will help get that pool cleaned. You posted a nice pic of an open hole......is that in the filter?

Let us know when you are ready to start.....my FIRST step would be the purchase of a large leaf net to remove all (or most of) the solid debris that is at the bottom of the pool
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
It appears to be where the pool water runs out to head to the pump.
not very likely. Possibly an overflow opening but doesn't look like it.

Anyway, the important point here is to let us know when you are ready to clear up your pool. It will not be quick and it will not be particularly easy, but we can help you do it as cheaply as possible and you'll learn a lot along the way.
 
Ok here is a update.
I opened up the filter enclosure and removed the filter.
The filter is covered with green.
I am not sure if the filter will be able to be cleaned so I have been searching for the cheapest place to buy a replacement.
I am trying to identify the filter so I will know a part number or similar specs to look up.
The filter cover has a crack in it and when I started the pump up water was spraying out of the top of the cover from the crack.
I do not believe that the cover will be cheap to replace so I am going to try repairing the crack with some high strength epoxy and see if that holds.
As for the round hole in the ground I need to find an inexpensive place to buy a replacement. If I remember from other poold correctly there is also a plastic basket that is supposed to drop down inside of that hole in order to catch any leaves or debris that is floating. I believe I also need to replace that basket.

Lastnight I went to Dollar Tree and bought 10 gallons of bleach and poured all 10 into the pool and ran a brush around the sides and went to sleep.

Today I went out and netted everything that was floating on the surface of the water. I did notice that the water seems to be a much lighter color of green than it was the day before. The first picture that I had posted in this forum was before I had donee anything and here is a picture from today.

7fc09d3.jpg


Here is a picture of the top of the filter
I am searching now for the filter by this part number: American Products Company 59054300

I believe that I found the filter, now to find the cheapest place to buy a replacement

http://www.poolfilters.biz/ak-8004.html

b7f5fc8.jpg


Here is a picture of the filter

cbfd3e1.jpg


Here are 2 pictures of the label on the top of the filter housing

06ab8b0.jpg


06ab8b0.jpg


And here is a closer picture of the hole next to the pool

527f345.jpg


I hope that from these pictures you all might be able to help me identify the filter and also find the cover and basket for the hole.

Also, how about my idea to repair the crack in the filter housing with epoxy?
 
It is unlikely that a patch on the filter housing will hold. You can give it a try, but I would go ahead and start shopping for a new filter. If you replace it with the same model filter then your current plumbing should line up, however changes in design sometimes alter the position of the intake and discharge outlets. Your cartridge is shot not because it is dirty but because the bands that hold it together are broken. I would gently hose it off to remove most of the gunk and try not to disturb the bands too much. Use that filter until you determine if your patch is going to hold or not. If your patch does hold, it probably will only hold for up to a month or so of use. Most of our members who try to patch a filter housing have not been successful.

Your current filter is a Pac Fab Clean and Clear CC150 cartridge filter. It is made by Pentair. If you shop around you can get the same model filter for around $400-500. Since you will likely be replacing this filter I urge you to add unions at the inlet and discharge connections for the filter, and to consider adding a ball valve and a T fitting so that you can add a waste line between the pump and filter. Then if you ever need to drain the pool or vacuum to waste it will make things easier.

As for the skimmer, measure the diameter and the depth of the inside of the skimmer. Take those measurements to a pool store and see if they can match you up with a basket and lid. I can see some raised printing around the lip of the skimmer but I can't read any of it. It may contain info about the brand or size of the skimmer if you can read what it says.
 
What you are referring to as the filter I am calling the housing. I will not be replacing the complete housing. Maybe only the top part that has the crack in it if needed or possible but not the whole housing.

As for the actual filter, I will try and clean it and see if it is possible to use it on a temporary basis in order to see if everything else is working.

The letters that you see on the lip of the skimmer only say something to the effect to keep the lid secured with the included screws. No manufacturer name.

I braved it with hand sanatizer in hand and reached down into the hold and found that the basket was there. I removed the basket and will use that as a reference to try and identify the lid needed.

I will post more pictures as I move along with this.

Thank You all who are helping this far.





zea3 said:
It is unlikely that a patch on the filter housing will hold. You can give it a try, but I would go ahead and start shopping for a new filter. If you replace it with the same model filter then your current plumbing should line up, however changes in design sometimes alter the position of the intake and discharge outlets. Your cartridge is shot not because it is dirty but because the bands that hold it together are broken. I would gently hose it off to remove most of the gunk and try not to disturb the bands too much. Use that filter until you determine if your patch is going to hold or not. If your patch does hold, it probably will only hold for up to a month or so of use. Most of our members who try to patch a filter housing have not been successful.

Your current filter is a Pac Fab Clean and Clear CC150 cartridge filter. It is made by Pentair. If you shop around you can get the same model filter for around $400-500. Since you will likely be replacing this filter I urge you to add unions at the inlet and discharge connections for the filter, and to consider adding a ball valve and a T fitting so that you can add a waste line between the pump and filter. Then if you ever need to drain the pool or vacuum to waste it will make things easier.

As for the skimmer, measure the diameter and the depth of the inside of the skimmer. Take those measurements to a pool store and see if they can match you up with a basket and lid. I can see some raised printing around the lip of the skimmer but I can't read any of it. It may contain info about the brand or size of the skimmer if you can read what it says.
 
You will likely find that buying a new filter top is almost as expensive as buying a whole new filter, in which case you might as well just do that.

You should be able to get a skimmer lid at any pool store; just measure the hole and ask them. As is, it's a broken ankle waiting to happen.
 
Welcom to TFP!

I would definitely not try to repair the housing - it's a band aid on a serious problem and there is only one correct way to fix it (replace it). Pressure side filters can have a tremendous amount of force placed on them; a known crack will only get bigger and could be very dangerous. But it sounds like you're already considering a replacement of at least the top. Unfortunately what MITS mentioned is true as replacement parts (especially for older models) like that can be almost as expensive as a completely new filter.
 
Watch craigslist with searchtempest for a good used filter. I've gotten an entire above ground pool with pump & filter just for removing it. I've also gotten another sand filter for free, it does need a seal kit but otherwise looks good.
 
Even though it's been a couple weeks since the last post I'll add my .02.

A new cartridge and lid are gonna cost you half of a whole new filter. The CC150 hasn't changed other than the label, and it has unions made into the inlet and outlet. It should take 10 minutes and a big pair of channel locks to change out. Find a price on the net and take it to the local pool store and ask them to match it. If they have good service and the price isn't outrageously low they should do it. You have a clean, simple equipment pad. Don't turn it into a junk pile by buying someone else's used pool equipment.

While you're at the pool store getting them to match the price, buy some of their liquid chlorine and some type of chlorine enhancer. Things will go much quicker. Just make sure you're testing along every step of the way. Chlorine is used up quickly in a situation like that.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.