Balanced, clear water but it's green, HELP!

Oct 21, 2011
11
We bought a new home that had a 30'x15' gunnite pool. It was left unused for the summer and covered and was very green when we opened it. We hired a pool company who spent $400 worth of effort on it over a four week period where we saw our green and cloudy pool go to a swamp with stuff living in it. It got waayyy worse under the pool care of the company. We fired them and took a test into Leslies. They had us use about 12 lbs of shock in it over a period of a couple of days. They also had us use green clear product and muratiac acid. The instructions were step by step and included cleaning the filter about three times as well.

We retested after three days of this and they had us put in another 2lbs of shock based on the how fast the pool was eating the chlorine. After about five days the pool was clearer than it'd ever been but VERY green still. The previous pool company had dumped in some $200 worth of metal free stuff already.

They tested phosphates which were off the charts at +2500 and had us put in $100 worth of chemicals to lower it.

Our last test showed our alkalinity, phosphates, ph, disolved solids all to be within normal. We let our chlorine levels drop to less than 1 so we could use the stain treatment chemical (asorbic acid) and dumped in 3.5 of the 2lb bottles of this stuff into our pool over a week. 4lbs were dumped in the last time. The pool is less green and is VERY clear and for the first time we can see the entire bottom, drain, etc. and YET ITS STILL GREEN! :(

So now we have very clear, very balanced pool with a slightly light green tint to it. Given the metal free, the asorbic acid, the incredible amount of chlorine and the fact we are now at about $1000 just trying to get the pool water normal I am just unsure where to go from here. Given the low chlorine use it's now showing I wouldn't think it is algea. Leslies tested for copper and iron and said the levels were ZERO.

Leslies has offered up a chemist to look at the water and we plan to do this but I was hoping someone might have some idea of what would cause this issue.
 
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You can do this for much, much less than you've already spent. First step: your own test kit. http://tftestkits.net I recommend the XL option because you're clearing a green pool. I also like my speedstir. I don't think anyone who has one thinks they wasted their money on it.

Then head over to Pool School. Read til it hurts. :wink:
 
Okay so I am planning to try and order the big test kit on here and I have been reading. :)

Because we don't have our test kit I took a sample into Leslies to get it tested; here are my latest results:

FC - 1.5
CC - No results given
pH - 7.3
TA - 120
CH - 280
CYA - 60
Copper - 0
Iron - 0
TDS - 1000
Phosphates - 300

Our chlorine is low because we let it go down immediatly after shocking it so we could use the asorbic acid in the pool to remove the green. They had us put in 7 lbs of it over a few days and it really only slightly lightened the green tint.

We can see the bottom of the pool; it's clear but it's green. :(

They actually GAVE us two bottles of stuff; one was a bottle of the Leslies Ultra Bright Water Clarifier and a bottle of the Pool First Aid stuff. The guy seemed at a loss as to why it was still green and this was about $35 worth of chemicals but unless you guys think I should try them I am just going to hold on to them. It's not cloudy... it's just GREEN.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
 
Crystal clear transparent green water is usually caused by metals in the water and usually fixed by adding a startup dose of sequestrant. But if the water is even somewhat hazy then it is almost certainly algae. Your levels are more suggestive of algae problems than metals turning green problems, though there is some ambiguity. With CYA at 60 you want your FC level to be between 5 and 9, and never below 5. Since your FC level is well below that, it is quite possible you are just starting to get algae and there is enough to tint the water without making it totally murky (yet).
 
JasonLion said:
Crystal clear transparent green water is usually caused by metals in the water and usually fixed by adding a startup dose of sequestrant. But if the water is even somewhat hazy then it is almost certainly algae. Your levels are more suggestive of algae problems than metals turning green problems, though there is some ambiguity. With CYA at 60 you want your FC level to be between 5 and 9, and never below 5. Since your FC level is well below that, it is quite possible you are just starting to get algae and there is enough to tint the water without making it totally murky (yet).

It may be metals but it's not iron or copper. Are there other metals we should or could test for? The previous pool service dumped in three bottles of metal free two weeks ago and currently it's testing at 0 copper or iron. In the last week we have dumped in now 16lbs of shock and cleaned the filters four times now. We also replaced the filters yesterday.

They thought the staining was from the metals they may have removed with the metal free. We let the chlorine levels get down to (it took 3 days for the FC to drop from 5 to 1) so we could use the asorbic acid (per instructions) which is the only reason I think it's low. We stopped putting in chorine to get to 1 or below per instructions and haven't yet raised it up again.

It's VERY clear water; we can now see the bottom drain and every little item on the bottom of the pool and before we couldn't even see the drain. It's weird because it honestly looks like someone dumped light green food coloring into it.

So should I just raise the chlorine level back to normal and retest and repost?
 
One word of caution; just because the metals tests didn't show metals, doesn't mean they're not in there. Especially if sequestrant has been added. Metal Free doesn't remove the metals it just binds them and holds them in suspension.
 
Bama Rambler said:
One word of caution; just because the metals tests didn't show metals, doesn't mean they're not in there. Especially if sequestrant has been added. Metal Free doesn't remove the metals it just binds them and holds them in suspension.

Ahhh... So what do we do to get rid of them then?

Last night we used the calculator to bring the FC up to normal levels and I'll test again today.

If metal free doesn't work then what does? :( The pool service put, oh, $150 worth of that stuff in our pool.
 
I don't recommend using Metal Free. Sequestrants based on HEDP, phosphonic acid, or phosphonic acid derivatives are the most effective. ProTeam's Metal Magic and Jack's Magic the Pink Stuff (regular), the Blue Stuff (fresh plaster), and the Purple Stuff (SWG) are some of the top sequestrants. You can also find many other brands with similar products, some of which are noticeably less expensive.

If the sequestrant is going to help it will remove the tint within a few hours.

Getting rid of metals permanently is tricky. There are some procedures that get rid of some of the metals some of the time, but the only reliable approach is to either replace the water with metal free water or to add sequestrant reguarly.
 

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Bama Rambler said:
One word of caution; just because the metals tests didn't show metals, doesn't mean they're not in there.

This is very true. I've had iron problems on and off and i can tell you that the pool water can be iron tinged and not show up on a pool store iron test. They are generally not that sensitive. Even an iron level of 0.5 ppm can show up as green water in some cases under the right conditions.
But Jason is correct here. You chlorine is very low for your CYA level. You need to verify that you do not have an algea problem. An overight chlorine loss test is what you need to perform as soon as you get a test kit.
 
So at this point would you recommend I order the Metal Magic? I'm at a loss as to what to do next? Shock again or just bring the FC and PH up to normal for a few days?

Do we have to drain the pool then to get rid of the metals if this doesn't work? I heard draining an in ground pool can cause all sorts of problems; is that true?

Thank you SO much for taking the time to give me advice.
 
I would try the overnight test first and rule out algae. If you order your kit from tftestkits.net it will ship quickly and usually arrives in a week or less, usually less. Not only will the kit help you perform this test correctly but it will be invaluable for testing your water for the next couple of swim seasons.
 
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