Closing newly-installed, newly-filled above-ground pool

Oct 29, 2011
2
We just had an above-ground pool installed (money just became available and we wanted pool, decking, etc. finished and ready to go in spring). I have searched online for guidelines for closing a new pool that contains new water, but can't find anything that addresses our seemingly unique situation.

Everything I read says to make sure that the pH, Total Alkalinity, and Calcium Hardness levels are all balanced when winterizing. But I assume that advice is directed toward those whose pools have been used all summer. Our dealer advised us to fill it, add algaecide, and put the cover on it until spring. He made no mention of the pH, Alkalinity, or Calcium Harness levels.

In order to avoid starting the clock on the pump warranty, he advised us to keep it sealed in the box until spring and then have it installed in the spring. Would the pump have needed to run if we had attempted to adjust the chemical levels? Not really wanting to remove the cover and add chemicals if I don't really have to, and REALLY don't want to have them come back and install the filtration system if not absolutely necessary.

Thanks in advance for any help.
 
Welcome to TFP!
Most warranties start on the date of purchase, not the date of installation. You may want to check with the manufacturer on that one. How and when to close the pool depends on the area where you live. If the water in the pool is above 60 degrees you will very likely develop an algae bloom. Algae grows more slowly in cold water, but it still grows. Algaecide will help some, but it will not keep a pool 100% algae free all by itself. Plus you have to mix it into the water to get the full benefit of the algaecide. Without the pump and filter installed you will need to mix the water by brushing the pool.

My next question, were the skimmer and return fittings installed or do they plan to do that in the spring?
 
George N said:
Hi and welcome :)

I'm new to the BBB method but this really helped get me going. http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-school/temporary_pool_guide

Thanks for the welcome and the link. :-D It's a permanent installation, though, so until I read it, I'm not sure how much it will apply to my situation.

zea3 said:
Welcome to TFP!
Most warranties start on the date of purchase, not the date of installation. You may want to check with the manufacturer on that one. How and when to close the pool depends on the area where you live. If the water in the pool is above 60 degrees you will very likely develop an algae bloom. Algae grows more slowly in cold water, but it still grows. Algaecide will help some, but it will not keep a pool 100% algae free all by itself. Plus you have to mix it into the water to get the full benefit of the algaecide. Without the pump and filter installed you will need to mix the water by brushing the pool.

My next question, were the skimmer and return fittings installed or do they plan to do that in the spring?

Thanks for the welcome. This appears to be "the" site of its type on the Web.

The dealer assured me he'd stand behind the filtration system through next summer's swim season, so I don't know means he would plan to use in the event there were problems. Either way, we've known each other a long time and he has a solid reputation locally, so I trust him on that.

We live in extreme northern Tennessee, so temps possibly won't reach the 60s much longer. They will certainly get that high (and higher) in the spring before we open it in early to mid May, though. I did mix the algaecide pretty thoroughly when I applied it, going around the pool twice with the brush and swishing it around pretty hard.

Potential algae problems aside, is there any risk of damage to the liner between now and May, due to chemicals not being in balance? My only previous experience has been with a seasonal metal frame pool, and the chemicals were set as soon as the water went in, of course. So I'm new to the winterizing thing.

As for the fittings, I'm new to permanent pools so I may not be able to answer your question accurately, but a white plastic square fitting was installed with the skimmer tank/basket (?), and also the return fitting was installed into the wall. No hoses were attached to either one and the water level has been kept below both of those devices.
 
I would check the pH. As long as you keep it between 7.2 and 7.8 you should be fine. pH below 7.0 or above 9 may shorten the life of the liner by making it more brittle, but not cause immediate damage.
 
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