Bonding Wire Question

[Sprocket]

When changing out my pump, I realized the booster motor did not have a bonding wire.

There is a solid wire bonded to the pump motor, but the casing has so much paint and is so old it will not fit through the fitting to continue on to the booster. Can I connect another piece of wire to finish the run to the booster? If so, would I use a wire nut and some liquid electrical tape? As an alternative, since the wire is long enough, can I strip the existing wire about 2'? This would cause it to be exposed from about an inch before the pump motor all the way to the booster.

 

[JasonLion]

Bonding wire is supposed to be bare copper wire, no insulation. If your current bonding wire has insulation you can certainly remove some of that insulation (ideally replace the wire, but that isn't always practical).

There are special connectors rated for connecting two bonding wires together. Don't use standard wire nuts. The special connectors are widely available. Some of them require sealing against corrosion, but they do not get insulated in the sense that AC wiring gets insulated.

 

[Dalandlord]

Just curious, is it ok braze two pieces of bonding wire together basically forming a "y" so there can be an end for each motor? The way mine is it's a pita to work on the booster pump as well.

 

[Sprocket]

Bonding wire is supposed to be bare copper wire, no insulation. If your current bonding wire has insulation you can certainly remove some of that insulation (ideally replace the wire, but that isn't always practical).

There are special connectors rated for connecting two bonding wires together. Don't use standard wire nuts. The special connectors are widely available. Some of them require sealing against corrosion, but they do not get insulated in the sense that AC wiring gets insulated.

So no problem for the entire run from the new pump motor to the booster to be bare?

 

[Dalandlord]

Bonding wire is supposed to be bare copper wire, no insulation. If your current bonding wire has insulation you can certainly remove some of that insulation (ideally replace the wire, but that isn't always practical).

There are special connectors rated for connecting two bonding wires together. Don't use standard wire nuts. The special connectors are widely available. Some of them require sealing against corrosion, but they do not get insulated in the sense that AC wiring gets insulated.

So no problem for the entire run from the new pump motor to the booster to be bare?

They are always bare, in the picture it looks like someone painted yours. There is no problem with that run being bare.

 

[Sprocket]

It's pretty brittle so it will be a pain to strip. The pool is probably 25 years old. The wire has the insulation plus at least a couple of coats of paint.

 

[Ohm_Boy]

You can use a split-bolt connector to extend your bonding wire with a new piece of bare copper wire. Here's an image...

[attachment=0:x64zbwzx]split-bolt_connector.jpg[/attachment:x64zbwzx]

 

[Sprocket]

You can use a split-bolt connector to extend your bonding wire with a new piece of bare copper wire. Here's an image...

[attachment=0:1g71tybu]split-bolt_connector.jpg[/attachment:1g71tybu]

Now we're talking! By the way - I'm in Maitland.

 

[Ohm_Boy]

By the way - I'm in Maitland.

Then you should be able to get everything you need at the Home Depot on Lee Rd., or the Lowe's or Home Depot over on 434.

I used to work in Maitland, before the company packed up and moved to Boston and tossed everyone out. I do still have a client there with an occasional job.

 

[Ohm_Boy]

is it ok braze two pieces of bonding wire together basically forming a "y" so there can be an end for each motor?

Just to lay this to rest, this is not an approved method of connecting bonding conductors, and I would expect an inspector to fail it.
Exothermic welding is approved, but brazing is endothermic.

 

[Dalandlord]

is it ok braze two pieces of bonding wire together basically forming a "y" so there can be an end for each motor?

Just to lay this to rest, this is not an approved method of connecting bonding conductors, and I would expect an inspector to fail it.
Exothermic welding is approved, but brazing is endothermic.

Since you might as well be talking Greek to me, what would be exothermic welding? I have never seen anything but one continuous wire so I was thinking any kind of welding or connector might not be approved. Thanks

 

[Lershac]

In my area the split nut connector would pass. I specifically asked this of the head of electrical.

 

[Ohm_Boy]

It's essentially a casting-in-place-by-explosives method. See: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u_BnAbqq5BE

The split nut passes because it is a listed connector/listed compression fastener. 'listed' means UL listed for the purpose.

250.8 Connection of Grounding and Bonding Equipment.
(A)Permitted Methods.Grounding conductors and bonding jumpers shall be connected by one of the following means:
(1) listed pressure connectors
(2) terminal bars
(3) pressure connectors listed as grounding and bonding equipment
(4) the exothermic welding process
(5) machine screw-type fasteners that engage not less than two threads or are secured with a nut
(6) thread-forming machine screws that engage not less than two threads in the enclosure
(7) Connections that are part of a listed assembly
(8) Other listed means
(B)Methods Not Permitted.Connection devices or fittings that depend solely on solder shall not be used.

I've seen relay racks failed because there was no label indicating that they were listed equipment. Not the panels in the rack, but the actual racks themselves. The contractor had to provide documentation (and affix it to the installation) or remove it all and replace it with equipment which 'prominently' displayed that the equipment was approved and who the listing authority was (UL). The AHJ was very strict on that particular contract, but he was well within his rights and responsibilities.

 

[Sprocket]

Thanks for the split post connector tip. Made it very easy.