Looking for a Type of PVC Fitting

[les_garten]

I'm looking for a "stub" of PVC

Let me explain. I'll use an example. I need to cut out a 2-way valve in a manifold of other 2-ways, T's etc. But in reality, I've been thinking about the need for this for a long time.

So, normally you cut out the fixture on both sides enough to put in Female-Female couplers and build back with pipe to get to your fitting. Well, what if you don't have room to do this, and you may have to through out a bunch of valves and rebuild everything from scratch?

I've always thought there should be a PVC stub-out coupler. This is a slip fit Female-Male that is real short. You cut out your valve and it gives you back the pipe you lost in the valve slip joint. Only about 3" long or so and you don't loose a ton of pipe.

Anybody seen anything like this. I can't believe it doesn't exist!

 

[frogabog]

I think I cut the female end off of exactly what you're looking for to couple a Summer Escapes hose to an Intex hose about two weeks ago.

Pretty sure H got it at either walmart or home depot. I might even have another in the garage. I needed it to work like a nipple and the larger end was too big.

 

[les_garten]

I think I cut the female end off of exactly what you're looking for to couple a Summer Escapes hose to an Intex hose about two weeks ago.

Pretty sure H got it at either walmart or home depot. I might even have another in the garage. I needed it to work like a nipple and the larger end was too big.

I'll go over to HD and think hacksaw.

I called a Pro Plumbing supply and they had nothing to suggest.

 

[frogabog]

It should be sold under something like:

x size by x size pvc adapter but the label on mine only has a number.

 

[linen]

I think they are called repair couplings:

http://www.amazon.com/Genova-70122-...f=sr_1_21?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1314390719&sr=1-21

I have not used one, but basically they do not have the internal stop and you have to prime with the coupling pulled onto one side.

 

[les_garten]

Thanx, both of those look interesting.

 

[stev32k]

It's called a slip reducer. There is also a compression type reducer. Reducers with threads are usually called bell reducers.

 

[les_garten]

This pic is an example of what I'm looking at.

I have to replace the center valve, but the other two would be worse.

http://www.turbonet.biz/misc/Pool/P1010789.JPG

 

[linen]

So the center valve was you culprit? Did you find that out using Bama method?

That center valve is going to be tricky. You have very little room to T and to the ground for that matter. The quick way (but I am not sure if it willwork) is to cut right at the top of that valve, then put a valve extendedEDIT: oops mean a pipe extender on what is left of the upper pipe. Below the valve dig out the pipe a little and make a cut on the lower pipe long enough that you can put a short pipe stub in the lower inlet to the new valve and use the coupling I pointed to above, having that coupling all the way down on the pipe in ground and slidding it up over the stubby pipe on the valve to make the joint. That is the easy way, though I might consider a more drastic approach where you use some unions, etc.

By the way, what is that blacked cupped thingy with electrical running to it?

 

[les_garten]

So the center valve was you culprit? Did you find that out using Bama method?

That center valve is going to be tricky. You have very little room to T and to the ground for that matter. The quick way (but I am not sure if it willwork) is to cut right at the top of that valve, then put a valve extended on what is left of the upper pipe. Below the valve dig out the pipe a little and make a cut on the lower pipe long enough that you can put a short pipe stub in the lower inlet to the new valve and use the coupling I pointed to above, having that coupling all the way down on the pipe in ground and slidding it up over the stubby pipe on the valve to make the joint. That is the easy way, though I might consider a more drastic approach where you use some unions, etc.

By the way, what is that blacked cupped thingy with electrical running to it?

Haven't found out for sure yet, going to do that water test tomorrow when the wife can help with the hose and what not. But as you can see, I'm getting ready for it.

The cupped thing you are referring to is the electrical junction for the Transformer to the pool light.

 

[Lershac]

Time to visit the "gee thanks mr pool builder/plumber" thread and add your pic. That's just silly to leave that little of pipe between joints to work with.

Is the leak at the weld or in the body? One of the reasons to go with relatively expensive valves like that is the ability to rebuild them in place, if the welds and valve body are ok, you should look at replacing just the valve internals if that would fix for you.

 

[bobodaclown]

how about a coupling.

 

[linen]

valve extendedEDIT: oops mean a pipe extender

Sorry about my poor flow of consciousness in my post above, I meant a "pipe extender" not a "valve extended"...not sure what that would be

Lershac has a good point, it the leak is in the valve, fix it in place.

 

[les_garten]

Time to visit the "gee thanks mr pool builder/plumber" thread and add your pic. That's just silly to leave that little of pipe between joints to work with.

Is the leak at the weld or in the body? One of the reasons to go with relatively expensive valves like that is the ability to rebuild them in place, if the welds and valve body are ok, you should look at replacing just the valve internals if that would fix for you.

I'm going to investigate that today. I rebuilt the valve. I heard a leak around the lower pipe juncture. Tried sealing it with epoxy and not sure it got sealed there. Also seems like I hear a leak possibly in the body. Looks like the valve is gonna go away, perhaps. I still have some more troubleshooting to do.

The Pool builders obviously want to save every freakin' penny. The thing is, most people don't ever see them again, so there is no incentive to make an easy to repair and maintain system. Pretty sad, an extra $150 or so on a $40-$50,000 would save a lot of grief in the long run.

If I replace the valve, what would you guys suggest I use. The current valve is a Pentair.

 

[les_garten]

how about a coupling.

Yeah, I looked at the repair coupling mentioned above.

 

[les_garten]

valve extendedEDIT: oops mean a pipe extender

Sorry about my poor flow of consciousness in my post above, I meant a "pipe extender" not a "valve extended"...not sure what that would be

Lershac has a good point, it the leak is in the valve, fix it in place.

I just found a pool builder supply this morning and he had these! He would only sell to pool builders, but soldme 3 anyhow. So I just snagged a few of these.

 

[Lershac]

If you are hearing a leak and not seeing water or feeling wetness, it ain't leakin. Water flow through a valve makes noise.

 

[les_garten]

If you are hearing a leak and not seeing water or feeling wetness, it ain't leakin. Water flow through a valve makes noise.

OK,

But as I mentioned in my tests above. I have 3 valves as shown in the picture above. That valve is the only one that sounds like a vacuum leak and blows a ton of air into the basket when you crack it partially closed. The other two are quiet at any setting up to closed and flow no air bubbles into the basket.

Riddle me that?

I have about 30 years of using a stethoscope everyday all day in the medical field, so I kinda have a trained ear in that respect.

I want the problem to be above ground I might add. I really do. But I can't imagine a problem below ground that would get worse as the valve was cracked close. The flow and venturi effect would decrease as the valve was closed if you were a little gay in the line taking pressures I would think.

 

[jongig]

If I were you I'd replace the plumbing on all three valves at the same time and it would be so much easier. The valves look like 2 inch/2.5 inch valves. Cut the three off and cap the three pipes coming out of the ground with schedule 80 male threaded adapters. you can use threaded pvc niples between the valves and then they can be reused by cutting the threaded niples and replacing the niples which costs very little.

 

[Lershac]

If you are hearing a leak and not seeing water or feeling wetness, it ain't leakin. Water flow through a valve makes noise.

OK,

But as I mentioned in my tests above. I have 3 valves as shown in the picture above. That valve is the only one that sounds like a vacuum leak and blows a ton of air into the basket when you crack it partially closed. The other two are quiet at any setting up to closed and flow no air bubbles into the basket.

Riddle me that?

I have about 30 years of using a stethoscope everyday all day in the medical field, so I kinda have a trained ear in that respect.

I want the problem to be above ground I might add. I really do. But I can't imagine a problem below ground that would get worse as the valve was cracked close. The flow and venturi effect would decrease as the valve was closed if you were a little gay in the line taking pressures I would think.

Yeah there's a leak there then. If you run a heavy flow of water over the valve when it's gushing air does the air decrease or stop? Another trick is to tape plastic around the valve in question to let it suck out all the air and let the plastic seal up the leak. If that works it's def the valve.

If the welds are good and the body isn't cracked I would def rebuild. They are good valves. Try taking it apart and seeing if any mating surfaces look nicked or cut? Some petro gel might help there.