Is ANY algae growth normal??

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captjohn

captjohn

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Nov 4, 2009
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MS Gulf Coast- Katrina Survivor - BP Hater!
Are small amounts of algae normal? I have a few small streaks and patches of algae on my pool walls and safety ledge daily. I brush them off daily and it takes about 10 mins to do all. Water is sparkling.

I had an algae problem a month or so ago. Shocked for over 2 1/2 weeks with several days (twice) at mustard algae levels. I'm passing the overnight test but can't get the CC to 0. My cc is always .5 to 1 even after shocking. Info here:
fighting-algae-t36335.html


fc-8
cc-1
ph-7.5
ta-110
ch-230
cya-50
borates-50
temp-87
 
In stagnant, untreated water, algae growth is normal. In a well-maintained swimming pool, no. :joker:

Somewhere, you've got some algae "starter" still working. Could be in the filter, behind the light, under or in ladder steps, pool cover, even on pool toys or vacuum hose. Throw anything that might go in the pool in the pool while shocking it again. You might even want to pull the light out of the niche and give that area some scrubbing.
 
I'll check the niche for sure. I went thru a thorough cleaning 2 months ago and even pulled the light and cord completely out and scrubbed and chlorine soaked for a week. All toys, hoses, covers, etc.... in the pool while at mustard shock level also.
Could I be introducing it in my well water? I may need to treat my tank and plumbing as well since it's not treated in any way.
 
captjohn said:
Could I be introducing it in my well water? I may need to treat my tank and plumbing as well since it's not treated in any way.
Click to expand...
Yes, though I think if you are just topping off, properly maintained FC levels should be able to handle it. Every few years I do a bleach treatment of my well, usually when the smell gets pretty strong.
 
I would consider any 1ppm CC result as an indicator of needing to shock. Especially if I saw it more than once.

It sounds like you have a bloom that isn't going freaky green because you're maintaining the pool with enough chlorine to keep it at bay.

Have you performed an OCLT on the pool since this started occurring?

Shocking the pool when it's like that won't take 2.5 weeks like last time but the longer you let it go, the more time it will take I'm sure. I'd do it now and get it over with so you can enjoy the rest of the swim season.
 
While you were away recently (for 10 days?), do you think the FC dropped below the min for the CYA level?
Did someone maintain/test the pool for you while you were away?

Basically, you have an indoor pool. I am wondering if the CYA needs to be closer to 20 to keep things happy.
Did Richard/Chem Geek mention anything about possibly lowering the CYA in prior posts?
Direct sunlight does not hit your pool - correct? Also, you mentioned adding more ventilation. Did that happen?

Yep, you gotta' shock that 1CC into submission :whip:
And with all the variables of your pool, it could take a while to get rid of it.

btw, no more citric acid has been added recently (within last month) - right? :wink:
 

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Actually, while I was away, my chlorine level rose. I left the pool at shock level and I was still learning to set my Stenner pump. I had it set too high and the pool was at Mustard shock level when I got home. So yes, I had some "thing" taking care of the pool

Chem Geek and Jason have spoke of difficulty in lowering CC due to the lower UV I receive with the clear lexan roof. Nothing of lowering the CYA.
I receive full sun on the roof but it filters the UV.
I haven't added any more ventilation. I have an exhaust fan and all doors are open but it's 100-105 degrees inside in the heat of the day, 95 today outside. The added fan will be a later project.

It's at 20ppm and holding tonight. I'll test again in the morning. I'm also checking the niche in the morning.

Ummm, citric acid???? yesss. :roll: But I never let the FC go below my target for my cya (against the instructions). I know what you said but I didn't think I'd get caught. :hammer: Is it still a problem if I keep the FC up?
I'm also using a phosphonic - polymaleic acid based sequestrant.
 
Ummm, citric acid???? yesss. :roll: But I never let the FC go below my target for my cya (against the instructions). I know what you said but I didn't think I'd get caught. :hammer:
Click to expand...
hehe, gotcha :mrgreen:

Well, Captain, my thoughts (from previous thread) still lean towards water replacement. Not just talking about the algae or the CC, but the overall problems.

Let's see what others say. :)
 
Morning Update:
OCLT 0-.5 ppm, CC-1ppm, Water-crystal, Tiny spots of visible algae on walls.

Removed the light from niche and found dead (white) algae on the light fixture. Last time it was black (2 months ago). At that time I installed a T and 90 degree ell in the conduit near the floor below the transformer and occasionally pour a bleach solution into the conduit that feeds into the niche. I'm guessing that's why the algae was dead. I soaked the light in a bucket of strong bleach water for a week last time so now I've dismantled the light assy. The gasket had a flaky substance around the outside and a couple of drops of moisture behind the lens. Either algae or decomposition on the gasket. I've ordered a new one and soaking the parts, except the light housing, in bleach. I'll wipe the outside of the housing with a strong bleach solution a few times while apart. After I reassemble, I'll put it in a bucket of bleach for a while for insurance.

What am I missing on the cleaning process? If it's clean, algae shouldn't return, right? Could this be my source of CC? I know it's the algae injector! Any other suggestions? I was going to replace the entire light until I saw the $450+ price tag.

Thanks for everyones help!
 
If your pool is not exposed to UV, then it would be better to not have the CYA be so high. Usually for indoor pools we recommend more like 20 ppm or no more than 30 ppm. That should somewhat help keep the CC lower though many people find they need to use supplemental oxidation such as a UV system or use of non-chlorine shock (MPS). It will also be easier for you to shock the pool (if needed) using less chlorine.

It does seem that you have yellow/mustard algae that prefers shade and may have been hiding out in the light niche so was likely the source or reintroduction of the algae into the pool. If you have removable ladders, be sure to check under them as well.
 
Thanks Richard. I'll lower the cya which won't be very hard since kids and slide = frequent top offs. Here's a quote from GE's Lexan tech sheet: "LEXAN Corrugated sheet transmits a high portion of visible light. It is essentially opaque to ultraviolet light at wavelengths below 385 nanometers". I receive some direct sunlight in morning and evening thru the screen where the glass doors are open but I'm sure it's filtered by the atmosphere.

No steps, ladders etc. in the pool. Molded stairs and the hand rail isn't in the water. The light is the only thing in water except for multiple return jets. I have all valves open so shocked water is flowing everywhere. The light is the repeat offender and there was no algae in the niche itself. Hopefully replacing the rubber gasket will help as all other parts are SS or glass. I've had all toys, tools, cover, etc. in the pool multiple times while as mustard shock levels also. Today I aimed 1 return, 10' away, directly at the niche to try and increase flow around it.

Wish me luck! :shaking2:
 
captjohn said:
Morning Update:
OCLT 0-.5 ppm, CC-1ppm, Water-crystal, Tiny spots of visible algae on walls.

Removed the light from niche and found dead (white) algae on the light fixture. Last time it was black (2 months ago). At that time I installed a T and 90 degree ell in the conduit near the floor below the transformer and occasionally pour a bleach solution into the conduit that feeds into the niche. I'm guessing that's why the algae was dead. I soaked the light in a bucket of strong bleach water for a week last time so now I've dismantled the light assy. The gasket had a flaky substance around the outside and a couple of drops of moisture behind the lens. Either algae or decomposition on the gasket. I've ordered a new one and soaking the parts, except the light housing, in bleach. I'll wipe the outside of the housing with a strong bleach solution a few times while apart. After I reassemble, I'll put it in a bucket of bleach for a while for insurance.

What am I missing on the cleaning process? If it's clean, algae shouldn't return, right? Could this be my source of CC? I know it's the algae injector! Any other suggestions? I was going to replace the entire light until I saw the $450+ price tag.

Thanks for everyones help!
Click to expand...
A hypothetical:

If we completely sterilize our pool, introduce sterile water, I mean there are NO organics in the pool and we do not add any chlorine, how long till we are overrun with algae? I don't think it will take very long, algae is being introduced to the water all the time, can't be avoided.
 
Sun and temperature is the biggest factor in algae growth. If the sun shines on the water, I'd give it a week maximum and then it'll go major green with a quickness. A more realistic time frame would be 3-4 days.

When I fill my pool in the sun, the water turns green at about 4" (roughly half hour into filling). By green I mean a tint of green, not a swamp of course but still it's growing algae THAT fast.
 
Under ideal conditions with plenty of sunlight, nutrients and warm temperature algae can double in population every 3 to 8 hours. If it becomes visible in less than 1-2 days, it was already there just below the visible threshold. As for water color when filling, the water probably already had that tint but isn't seen until it gets to sufficient depth.
 

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