Can you stand another "green pool" post? I need help please

[Betsy]

I'm sure you all see a hundred threads like this every season, but here goes. We used to have a smaller Intex with a real pump attached, now we inherited a used regular 18x24. My pool is GREEN. And I mean full-on deep, visible only about 18" down nasty.
I've been fighting this thing for about a month! We had a crazy week and no one ran the pump back then for about three days and it started getting a green tinge to it. So I do the pH, shock it, etc. which usually does the trick sooner or later. About three weeks ago, hubby replaced the motor because it sounded like bearings were going bad. Then someone at our local shop, pretending to be more expert than us, told us the sand should be replaced several times a season so we did--to absolutely no benefit. My pH has been running high most of the month and has only come down below 7.8 in the last few days with me adding about 2 lbs. cheap Walmart pH reducer every other day. I'd been using liquid chlorine and the bags of hth super shock n swim weekly. I've been putting in the blue clarifier 2 oz. about once a week through this fiasco. I noticed about a week ago my CYA (on dipsticks) was zero, so bought some of the tabs for the floaters that are supposed to add stablilzer. I also added about 2# hth "conditioner and stabilizer" flakes twice in the last week. I should add that the hth stablizer didn't say anything about putting the flakes in a sock, as I'm seeing on the board, just to add to the skimmer. I'm finally getting what looks like about a 30 reading on the CYA (again, on dipsticks, I'm going to order a decent test kit this week). I actually got it un-green for about two days, but still very cloudy, then it went back to green. the pool has run 24/7 almost all month (in fact it feels a little hot today) I'm about to develop a drinking problem here.

The particulars: 10,000 gal AG 18x24x4. Hayward sand filter S166T , 1.5 hp pump (35 gal/min according to the site).
The psi on the filter is running 18, and when turned off only goes down to 9, not zero.

As of noon today, FC-5, pH-7.6, TA-120, CH-200, CYA-30 (I shocked again last night w/ one gal 10% chlorine)
Yesterday, FC-3, pH 7.6, TA-140 (that’s all I remember)--this was done with the cheap 4-way kit from the hardware store w liquids. It also said I needed to add 1.5 muriatic acid.
Two days ago, FC-3, pH 7.5, TA-200, CH-200 CYA-30

When hubby turned the filter to “recirculate” it got much more powerful than when set on “filter”.

This looks like a bubbling cauldron of gross, but couldn't get one without sky reflection, lol.

Here you see that it's only visible to about the second step (maybe 18" down)

Here, you can see that the little "window" on the side of the filter has a little sand in it, all the time. Don't remember this from years past--is this a problem?

Here's the pump/filter setup, I believe they're 1.5" hoses. Hubby was in process of re-leveling it when I took pics today.

 

[PoolGuyNJ]

Re: Can you stand another "green pool" post? I need help pl

Hit it with a few more jugs of Clorox, the big ones please. Then again at the end of the day, and circulate it for an hour. Brush the walls. Shut the systems for the night.

Then next morning, start the hose to it and vacuum to WASTE. Move briskly but not too fast and don't try to be perfect. The water level will drop fairly quickly. Stop just before you run out of water for the skimmer. Restart the filter in filter mode, get a new pressure gauge and some CYA. Refill the pool and repeat as needed. Rebalance when done.

If there is too much in suspension and it's too small for the filter to capture, you may need to floc it.

Scott

 

[Patrick_B]

Re: Can you stand another "green pool" post? I need help pl

Welcome Betsy,

This site is all about educating and helping people take control of their own pools by understanding what they are doing. Unfortunately most pool stores seem to care little about that. The best decision you have already made...ordering a good test kit. Get the K2006 from Taylor, or the TF-100. The latter is a better value and contains Taylor reagents. The next best thing you can do is spend a lot of time in Pool School here. WHen you get stuck, we will help you out. I assure you that if you follow advice from here, you will prevail and have a beautiful clear, safe pool to swim in with shockingly little effort once you get it in line. You are going to need to shock your pool, and you will find it is a process instead of an event. Knowing your CYA level is important, especially for shocking, and unfortunately strips are very unreliable. I would not add more stabilizer/conditioner until after you run your own CYA with your new kit. I would suggest you check out the pool calculator and add enough bleach to get you to shock level of 20 CYA to be safe. You can always bump this up if it isnt working well. Shocking will go faster if you stay on top of it until it is done completely. You will use a lot of chlorine/bleach as well so stock up on some. Dont add pucks or powdered shock either. Both can add CYA and you may not want to...not yet until you know for sure.

The calculator is very easy to use, and very accurate. Just plug in all your numbers, and be sure to double check they are right...like volume and what strength of bleach you are using etc. Read about shocking your pool, and defeating Algae, in pool school. These will help I promise. Everything there is good and very helpful.

Sounds like your pressure gauge is bad, but these are cheap and easy to replace. Install it, watch your pressure and the flow from your filter, and backwash as needed. You were told wrong on the sand. Most filters dont need new sand for at least several years, and some people go longer without changing. Welcome again, and let us know when we can help.

 

[zea3]

Re: Can you stand another "green pool" post? I need help pl

Hi Betsy, welcome to TFP! If your pressure gauge on the filter doesn't go to 0 when the pump is off it needs to be replaced. That is a simple and inexpensive fix. You can remove the site glass and wash out the sand. See if the sand comes back after it is re-installed. If it does we can trouble shoot that issue later.

If you have read this site for very long, you may have an inkling of what the problem is with the pool. Insufficient chlorine. Please re-read defeating algae and
how to shock your pool. Also, the TF 100 test kit is the best value for your money, based on the amount of testing supplies included. You may have a hard time finding a FAS-DPD test kit in retail stores. Usually they will try to sell you a DPD test kit which does not test chlorine levels high enough to be useful to complete the shock process.

You can start the shock process with the test results you have, but you will want to get a better test kit as soon as possible. Use The Pool Calculator to determine how much chlorine you will need to clear your pool. Shocking a pool is a process and not a 1-time application of something labeled "shock". You will know the shock process is complete when your pool passes the overnight test.

Feel free to ask any questions you may have. Good luck!

 

[Lershac]

Re: Can you stand another "green pool" post? I need help pl

Wow.

#1- We LOOOVE posts like this. They are an opportunity to "convert" someone. Bring you to the light as they say.

#2 - Sand should not be changed several times per season. I know people operating on the same sand for YEARS.

#3 - You are already on the right track with ordering a test kit.

Gonna stop numbering for a minute and preach. Watch out. The philosophy here at TFP is to quantify (put numbers to) what you need to put into your pool, based on practical experience and a healthy handful of science. So the first step is to test your pool and see where you are at.

You definitely need to shock your pool. Shocking is a process, not a one time addition of chemicals. It involves raising the FC to "shock levels" for your pool depending on your CYA level, AND KEEPING IT THERE by testing and adding additional chlorine as often as you can. Hourly if possible during the early stages. The closer you keep the pool at continuously high chlorine levels through adding more as it gets used up by the organics in your pool, the faster the shock process goes.

You keep your pool at high shock levels of chlorine until all 3 of the following conditions are met:

1. You pass an "overnight chlorine loss test" (hereafter oclt") with no loss of FC,
2. Your CCs (combined chlorine, or chlorine that has been used to kill something but is still in your pool) are .5 or less
3. Your pool looks clear and sparkly.

During the shock process you run the pump continuously on filter, except when the pressure rises and indicates its time to backwash, then right back to filter.

While you are waiting on your test kit to arrive you can do as Scott says, and add a non-specific (lots) of chlorine to try to get a handle on things, but once it arrives and you get reliable test results, you want to compare your FC level to the suggested shock levels for your CYA level and add the appropriate amount of chlorine as calculated using the pool calculator (hit the big "pool school" button in the upper right, links to everything you need are in there).

Report back as you make progress, and WE LOVE PICS of things as they clear up.

Thanks and welcome to TFP!