Just did my first test!

b3dw23

0
Aug 10, 2011
17
Ok guys, I ordered the test kit a while back and have been busy moving. I have just been dumping bleach in the pool everyday.

Ok my results:
Fc .5
Cc .5
Tc 1
Ta 290
Calcium is there for sure but with 85 drops I could not get the water to change to blue.
Cya 100 ppm (was actually pretty far below the line.

I purchased some chlorine yesterday because it was two gallons at 10% for $6 (seemed like a better deal.
I have a box of Borax and a bag of Arm & Hammer.

Please tell me what to do guys.

Thanks guys.
 
Hi b3dw23,

What test kit do you have?
You might want to retest the CYA with 50/pool water and 50/tap water and see how high you might be over 100 CYA level with doubling the test #. If your at or over 100 PPM I would suggest a partial draining, or a couple of partial draining's depending how high you are.
What is your PH testing at?
Have you read the Pool School link about what you need to know about pool chemistry?
If your needing to shock, get the PH down to 7.2 before starting the shocking process.
Have you learned to use the pool calculator? http://www.poolcalculator.com/
Can you post some pic's of you pool water now?
We would like to see a more complete set of test #'s as formatted in this title:
http://www.troublefreepool.com/what-we-need-to-know-to-answer-your-questions-t10341.html

Chuck
 
Welcome to TFP :wave:

Where are you located? If those results were derived using the TF100 or K2006, I hate to say this but your CYA and CH need to be lowered before attempting to shock. Besides drain and fill, you may be a candidate for reverse osmosis, if it is available in your area.
 
We live in Arizona and have EXTREMELY hard water. And Adding filtered water to the pool is not an option. As far as I can tell, the pool is also concrete which adds the the calcium levels.

I will try the test with 50% tap water as recomended but as I said, all of our water is extremely hard.

A friend of ours actually works in the city's water lab as a chemist. He told us that a glass of water from Phoenix's water supply provides as much calcium as a glass of milk!
 
Well, I didn't get anything better with half tap water. Still used 50 drops and there was no change in color.

I put half a quart of ph minus in the pool tonight and I'm going to leave the pool on circulate to see if that will help the ph which as I'm reading will help the bleach work better.
 
Reverse osmosis is not adding filtered water. Rather, it is a process in which the water that you currently have in the pool is processed in such a way that dissolved things in the pool such as CYA, calcium, and the like are pulled out of the water, leaving behind non alkaline water that is much like distilled water. These services are fairly available in the desert southwest and are good options to drain and refills.
 
Please tell me what to do guys.
A. Post your pH test result

1. Find the CH of your fill water......dilute by 1/3 of 1/4 if necessary. Post that result.

2. Dilute your CYA test by 1/2 (25% pool water, 75% R-0013) and post that result.

3. Tell us how your water looks now. Do you have any scale in the pool? What has been the history of your water clarity this summer? How about last?

4. Regardless of the answer to #3, you need to get chlorine in your pool....about 8ppm to "hold you over" until we can get some valid test results.

5. Plan on a partial drain and replace of your pool water.

6. Read and reread Pool School
 
For high CH, you may find the below helpful to save on testing reagent. Calsaway is a company in the AZ area providing r/o treatment for pools. A few hundred $'s to lower CH vs risking scale is money saved in the long run...plus you need to lower CYA to make things way easier.

Notes from : extended-test-kit-directions-t25081.html

Hold the dropper bottles vertically and squeeze gently, so that drops come out slowly and seem to hang on the tip of the dropper bottle for a moment before falling.
If you expect that your CH level is extremely high, you can do the test so that each drop is 25, instead of 10, to speed up the process and save on reagent usage. Use 10 ml of pool water, 10 drops of R-0010, 3 drops of R-0011L, and multiply the number of drops of R-0012 by 25 to get your CH level.
Measuring high CH levels is much easier and more precise if you use a magnetic stirrer.
The sample may turn purple during the test, or go to blue for a moment and then turn back to red/pink. This is called a "fading endpoint" and is caused by interference from metal ions. If this happens, do the test again, but this time add five drops of R-0012 before adding any R-0010 or R-0011L. Remember to count the initial five drops in the total.
In extreme cases, a fading endpoint may occur even when adding five drops of R-0012 at the start. If that happens, mix pool water with an equal quantity of distilled water, test that, and then multiply the result by two.
R-0010 is calcium buffer, a strong base which prevents interference from magnesium.
R-0011L is calcium indicator, an organic dye used to provide the red/blue color. It should be a deep blue color. If the dye stains the plastic bottle it is stored in, it has gone bad.
R-0012 is hardness reagent, used to titrate until the color changes.
The precision of the measurement is plus or minus one drop when up to 10 drops of titrant are used, or plus or minus 10% of the final reading, when more than 10 drops of titrant are used.
 
Thank you guys for the input I will attempt to test tonight.

As far as the pool history this summer... I don't know. I only moved in last Wednesday and don't know.

I have been having trouble managing the pool while painting and moving into the new house.

I have been adding 1/2 a quart of PH -minus to the pool for the last three days and this morning I dumped one gallon of 10% chlorine in the pool.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.