Polaris Booster Pump 220v to 120v problem

rowdy93

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LifeTime Supporter
Jul 3, 2011
53
Bonaire, GA
So I finally got my new pool pump in, pool is clearing up pretty quick from the dark green swamp. The old pump was 220v and therefore the booster was 220v, my new pump is 120v so I changed the polaris booster to 120v. Before I started, I verified it was in fact set to 220v and it was. 1. Yel/Blk =line 2. N/A 3. Brown 4. Black 5. Org/Wht 6. Yell=Line, I changed this to the 120v diagram 1.Yel/Blk=Line 2. N/A 3. N/A 4. Blk 5. Org/Bwn and 6. Wht/Yell =Line.

I turned it on yesterday and it very briefly kicked on and then tripped the breaker. When I wired it the diagram never had a polarity, just line on 1 and 6. I know a decent amount about motors and that the polarity will make in run in FWD and REV. I wired the hot to the #1 Yel/Blk and the Common to #6 Wht/Yell and of course the ground to the GRND screw is this correct? Is the polarity incorrect and pushing against the pressure of the pool pump and tripping the breaker?

I'd appreciate the input
 
[attachment=0:3bg628di]Booster.jpg[/attachment:3bg628di]

Last night when I got home from work I rechecked my work and it was correct according to the diagram. I also swapped my hot and common, put common to #1 term and hot to #6 term. Got the same results. No terminals were touching each other, so no shorts. I removed my presssure hose from the booster and turned on my main pump on low, I got flow out of the pressure port. I then turned on the booster and got a major current draw, all lights dimmed and main pump bogged down. Yes the lights and such have their own breakers. I was suprised when no breakers tripped with that amount of current draw. I checked the booster motor shaft and it was not moving, I then turned it off and went to bed.

The booster has not been used since my main pump went out on me, July 4th. The pump has sat on the pad since then and the only change was going from 220v to 120v. It's not likely that the pump/motor seized up just sittting there for that time, but it is possible.

What do you guys/gals think.


By the way, I woke up this afternoon to a clear pool :cheers: :lol: . I have been looking at a swamp for a month! It took 2.5 days to clear
 

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Bama Rambler said:
Yel/blk is L1 and wht & Yel is neutral. Looks like that's the way you have it.

What size is the breaker? Even if it's a 15 amp it could trip under starting load.

Yep that's how it was wired, I tried it both ways.

The breaker is 20amp, which feeds my dual intermatic timers. I could pull a diagram if needed but I can describe it to you. The 20 amp breaker feeds the first timer, the output on #1 timer feeds the main pool pump, stenner pump and feeds timer #2, when timer #2 kicks on it feeds the booster pump. My main pump is a whisperflow wfds-24, full load amps on high is 14.6/low 4.7.

I don't think I was overloading the breaker when I had the pump on low and turned the booster on, the breaker did not trip however the booster never turned over and everything else bogged down.

I'm not objective to putting booster on it's own breaker, just not sure how to do it with the timer set up. I want timer #1 to control main pump and timer #2, that way booster can't be on without the main pump.
 
rowdy93 said:
I'm not objective to putting booster on it's own breaker, just not sure how to do it with the timer set up. I want timer #1 to control main pump and timer #2, that way booster can't be on without the main pump.

Nevermind on this, I pulled the diagram up and fiqured it out. I can use either a 15 or 20amp breaker for the booster. A 15amp should work, it's 20% over the max draw of 13amps.





I still have the problem of in not running when switched to 120v
 

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Yes, thankyou. My control/timer/breaker box, was a disaster. I don't know who had wired it up, but it was a nest of wires going everywhere. My dad had taught me how to wire boxes when I was about 10 or 11yrs old. I will quit rambling about people doing Crud work, but yes everything is cut to lenght, has right angles of wires going where there going, looks pretty and is correct.

Thanks for throwing it out there
 

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Ok since your willing to entertain my imagination ... what if number 1 you rewire it and confirm that it still works as advertised on 220v. If so could you not just drop 1 of the 115 lines on the new pump? I've googled mixing 220 and 115 on the same circuit and it seems possible but perhaps not code. I'm an ex car mechanic and not an electrician so please take that into consideration ... I think code is there for a good reason...but you seem to know what your doing.
 
Durhamhouses said:
Ok since your willing to entertain my imagination ... .

I don't ever remember saying that I was willint to entertain you imagination, :lol: I'm just messing with you.

Durhamhouses said:
I'm an ex car mechanic

I'm also a mechanic, ACFT fulltime and autos on the side.

Anyways, the pump is working as advertised. I planned on removing it from the pad, so I can get a better look on my workbench and so I didn't have to rewire again for 220v. I was also going to steal my welder's 220v plug, so I could entertain Durham. I removed the motor shaft seal on the back and shaft wouldn't turn my hand. I turned it with a wrench to hear a nice grinding/graveling sound. Was coming from the center of the motor, so fiqured it was the brushes, rather than bearings. Grinding got lighter and smoother as I turned. Grapped a couple pieces of wire and a plug, wired it in and booster worked fine.

Took it back out, wired it back in and plumbed the way it was the first time and had no more problems. I'm fiquring that it may of been possible for the brushes and armeture to have gotten alittle bit of corrosion on it and it freed and cleaned itself up when I turned it by wrench.

I may in the future put the booster on it's own breaker as drawn up on the above attachment. Although it's within the 20amp breakers limit, I don't want to be running all 3 pumps off it.

Thanks for all the input
 
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