Pool-light won't turn on --- HELP!!

Test results --

Bulb IN (@ 2000):

BLK/GRN: nothing
WHT/GRN: nothing
BLK/WHT: 010-011

Bulb OUT (@ 20,000):


All NOTHING.

This was testing the light fixture's wires, correct? As in, black wire from light fixture to green ground from light fixture.
 
Yes. Try the bulb out resistance tests one more time, this time at 200K on the ohmeter. So far, so good. Also, check to see if disconnecting the green wires from the PLJB and connecting them directly does anything.

Remind me: Does the GFCI breaker pop if you take the light bulb out of the fixture?

At this point, it looks like there isn't any significant leakage, but again, the breaker would pop if it detected only 5mA difference between the line and the neutral fed to the light circuit, which is why I'm suggesting the 200K tests. I think you should try replacing the CFCI breaker. If that doesn't fix it, you will need to call in an electrician.
 
I will do those tests asap. I'm pretty sure the GF does pop when the light bulb is out.

How's this for a crazy idea...

If I wire that (stupid/ghetto) extension cord male-end directly onto the light fixture's wires... then connect that to a GFCI outlet I have in the house, that I know works... And the light stays on, no GF trip... wouldn't that be a possible way to see if the the new GFCI Breaker is malfunctioning?
 
BTW... I'm reluctant to return GFCI without being 100% sure its faulty because its an hour + round trip to a shady part of downtown Phoenix.. and this place was basically run out of a large storage garage in an industrial park. The type of place with bikini girl posters behind the register. Not that I don't love me some bikini girls. I'm just sayin, this place aint exactly Lowes.... I couldn't even pay with my debit card, cash only. ;)
 
OK -- So whacky test result news:

I went ahead and wired the light fixture's green/white/black wires to the extension cord piece... and connected that to my bathroom's GFCI outlet. Bingo. It works!

I actually tested on my outdoor outlet first, because I know that's tied into my indoor GFCI outlet... as I've tripped it a few times being dumb/lazy and letting the extension cord drop into the pool while I was trimming hedges. Both the outdoor outlet (that I know is tied to my indoor gfci) and the indoor GFCI outlet itself both worked with the light bulb in.
 
Hooking up with the outdoor GFCI has same problem as before... it gets tripped.

Although with this outdoor outlet, it takes 3-4 seconds and then trips, as opposed to instantaneously with the GFCI Breaker.

---

Just tested again via extension cord to my indoor GFCI outlet. It stays on longer then the outdoor ones, but it does in fact shut off as well. WTF??
 
Okay, these are interesting behaviors, but the fact that a completely different GFCI also detected a ground fault makes me concerned. I think you should either a) replace the fixture or b) call in an electrician, or c) both. There is something about that light fixture that seems to be developing a ground fault. Even if it is a slight one, this is 120V that could be transmitted to the pool water. I think we've done all we can do. Your panel is in much cleaner shape now, so that's a good thing. You can also tell the electrician what you found, and that will take up less of his time. But I think ultimately there is a slight short somewhere in that light fixture or in its cord. I hope that the conduit between the light fixture and the PLJB is intact. If you pull harder on that cord, you should be able to get some movement unless the conduit is rusted out and crushing against the cord.

So, I'd say it's close but the rule is that if the GFCI breaker goes off, you need to repair the circuit. I would disconnect the circuit from the panel as was done before until you can get a replacement fixture. I'm sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but I think it's better to be safe than sorry.
 
Yeah, exactly... what a bummer. At least I'm a master electrician now! ;)

I'll put a call in to get a light fixture... any tips to DIY that? (especially as far as getting the new wires thru the conduit (?) from the pool)
 
Yeah, you are indeed a master electrician now! That should come in handy down the road. As for a new light fixture, you can purchase an Amerlite 120V for about $150-200. I would suggest a 12V one though, and these run about the same. The reason is that 12V is much less dangerous than a 120V one. But, you would need to get a 120V-12V transformer, and then run this on the wall to the pool. It's a bit more expensive to go this way, but you won't run into any GFCI tripping anymore!

There are plenty of tips around about getting a new light installed. You want to use the current cord to pull the new cord through the conduit. This could be a pain, but give it a shot. Also, check ebay for best prices on light fixtures.

Gotta run, but I'll check in later.

Craig
 

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Yeah, the trick will be to get that light cord to budge. Make sure to wrap a wire or conduit pulling string round the cord before you pull the light fixture out. Add a bit of conduit lube inside the PLJB side to help make pulling easier. You should check on here and other places on the web for detailed info on pulling the cord through the conduit.

Best..

Craig
 
I've been following this thread closely because I have been having the exact same problem. I realized today that the bonding wire clamped onto the PLJB riser simply went into the ground about 6" and wasn't connected to anything. Could this be the problem, and what should it be connected to?
 
Gravy -

I don't think the issue would be with the lack of a bonding grid connection. The GFCI breaker measures for current differences between the line and the neutral. If the difference exceeds around 5 mV, it will pop. Now, if there was some current leakage between the water and either the neutral or line wires, and this was from another source that the bonding grid might normally dissipate, then maybe. A very unlikely scenario.

I've read several reports in which incandescent 120V fixtures that get wet inside (due to gaskets getting old, or improper installation of the gasket) leads to tripping the GFCI. I have Pentair SAm fixtures that are 120V, and have gotten a little wet inside due to gasket issues, but these have never popped the GFCI. I think this may be because they have an internal transformer that reduces the voltage to 12V, and this isolates them from the GFCI breaker. Nevertheless, I plan to replace these with 12V Intellibrite fixtures in the future because 12V fixtures are far safer, even if they are less prone to tripping of the GFCI.
 
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