TF100 vs Pool Store

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Bart

LifeTime Supporter
Jan 24, 2010
309
Northern Virginia
I used my TF100 test kit for the first time the other day, and then took a sample to the pool store for some type of sanity check. My results are below and as you can see, there is a problem with (at least) the calcium hardness number when I did the test. Not sure what I did or how I arrived at this number. Here are my results:


........ TF100 .........Pool Store
FC ---- .14 ---------- 0.5
CC ----- None -------- -
TC------ .14 -------- -
pH ------ 7.8--------- 7.8
CH-------.1 ------------250
CYA------65-----------55-60

My salt reading is 3.2 and the SWG is set to 50%.

From my newbie analysis, it seems like my chlorine level is too low on either test and my CYA is too low too. Also, do I need to bring the calcium hardness level up a bit?

Is my chlorine level too low? If so, how should I raise it? Should I shock the pool with bleach or just bump up the SWG setting? Also, if my CYA needs to go up to 70-80, how much should I add?
 
There are a couple of numbers that don't make sense. If you have the columns correct, Your's first then the PS next.
You shouldn't be able to get .14 with the TF-100. I suspect you have them reversed. You also can't get a CH number of .1

Let us know if the columns are correct and we'll go from there.
 
I'd go ahead and run the FC test and the CH tests again. When done correctly the FC test is going to be accurate only to a ".5" number - so .14 isn't possible. For example if the pink clears in 7 drops you divide 7 by 2 = 3.5ppm FC

Same with the CH test - the closest number will be a multiple of 10 - as each drop counts as 10 points. So 10 drops till color change = 100ppm CH
 
Thanks folks!

Yes, the columns are correct (or at least as I intended them to be). My reading is first, the pool store's is second.

I don't know what I did to get those numbers. If I remember correctly the FC number was based on 2 drops times 7, which equals .14. But I might be mixing the memories of 2 different tests. Speaking of the tests, one of them had me add drops until the water turned red. I was swhishing the tube around to try to mix the water after every drop. Is that the correct way to do it?

Back to the chlorine number, assuming the pool store is correct, what's the best way to get it up to a more acceptable level?

Thanks again,
Bart
 
You should run the tests again.
2 drops x .5 = 1ppm FC
Each drop on the CH test = 10 ppm.

Swirling while dropping is the preferred way to do the tests.

The best way to get your FC up is bleach. The Pool Calc will help you figure out how much you need.
 
Thanks again folks!!

Regarding the low free chlorine numbers and getting them up, once I figure out how much bleach to add, will that amount be "self sustaining" with the SWG? In other words, will I have to keep adding bleach or am I just trying to get it up to the proper level and then let the SWG take over in producing the chlorine?
 
It should keep it correct, but you may need to work with it for a while to get it fine tuned. I have a question about your salt reading though, you shouldn't have a reading of 3.2, it should be in the thousands, like 3200. Have you added salt to the pool?

Also, you don't shock by cranking up your cell. You should use bleach to shock.
 
Robbie -
The SWG reads "3.2" but the actual number is 3200.....the display is not large enough to show all the numbers. Yes, I did add salt (well the pool guys did when they opened the pool this spring). The salt level was 2800 a few weeks ago and I added 80 more pounds of salt to bring it up to 3200.

Thanks for the info on the shock too!
 

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