Slime Bag Reviews Needed

[Phree&Clear]

*BUMP*

I'm looking at solutions to my "cloudy" water problem and came across this product and decided to search reviews. No one has commented on This thread since 2007 and need 2011 reviews!

My story:

I bought my first home with my first pool back in April and have had a long uphill battle in trying to get my pool running properly and now clear. The pool 15 x 35 'Mt. Lake' shape, 3 -6 feet, 400 sq. ft area with 2 skimmers, was installed in 1987 running a 1.5 hp pump (there are actually 2 pumps with this setup and I'm not sure what the second one does), an Anthony Apollo DE filter, a 330 BTU heater, and an attached 30 sq. ft. spa with blower (thanks to original schematics).

My first thought was call a pool company and have them look over the equipment and get a hands on walk-thru of what I have acquired. My Dad's confidence in "he knew what he was doing," won out and we've learned the hard and expensive way that he didn't know what he was doing!

Problems with the outdated filter and parts, lack of knowledge of DE filters and media (play sand was added to the DE filter), push pull valves, and expensive replacement parts and non working heater-basically a rust box-the two units were removed. The filter was replaced with a Hayward 244S with multiport valve and plumbing re-worked to bypass the old route through the heater.

The filter works great but because of original addition of play sand, the pool water is definitely cloudy-especially noticeable when the pool light is on at night-I need to remove the fine sand particles/dust and vacuuming alone is just returning the same debris back into the pool.

I received my TFT test kit last Saturday and I've got all my levels in normal range!

I've read that I should just be vacuuming to waste and continue to add water but that is a lot of water and chemicals already invested into the pool that are being 'wasted' as well.

Any input on this product or any other recommendations to remove the sand is greatly appreciated.

Christine

 

[zea3]

Re: Slime Bag

Please post a complete set of test results. "Normal" is different for every pool and we need the results to help us advise you. Your new sand filter should not be returning anything to the pool. Have you tried holding a sock over a return with the pump running for a few minutes to see if you can catch any sand coming out of the filter?

Slime bags are very effective if your problem is fine dirt, silt, or pollen that is constantly blown into the pool, however most filters are able to capture very fine debris with sufficient filter run times. How many hours a day do you run the pump and filter?

 

[Phree&Clear]

Re: Slime Bag

I actually turned the pump off for the first time last night after running it a week straight just to see if the "particles" would settle. I couldn't get accurate readings from my testing since there had been no filtering going on through the night but will try again when I get home this evening.

The previous nights readings were:

CH 200
CHL 5 (I added around 50 oz. after this reading)
pH 7.2
TA 140 (I added a 4lb. box of borax before this reading)
CYA 100

As far as the sand in the pool, this is not new sand that we put into the Hayward. This is previous 'play' sand that was put into the old filter, "because it looked like sand was already in there when I took it apart to clean," with NO DE! Yikes...this is what happened when I left my Dad unattended to "fix" the pool. And to top it off when he removed the heater and re-plumbed, he got rid of the push-pull valve and plumbed the intake into the return and vise versa The cost to replace the push-pull valve would have run $500 so we decided to start with a new filter altogether for the same price.

I had also taken some pictures this morning but forgot my cord to upload them, DOH!

 

[Phree&Clear]

Re: Slime Bag

Ok so I ran the pump/filter all day, came home and backwashed/rinsed the filter, added 1 1/2 cups of DE through the main skimmer, and then attached knee high's to the skimmers to start catching some of the finer particles.

Next I took my water sample and my readings are as follows:

CH 200
CHL is through the roof! the drop test shows ORANGE...I tried the more in-depth test and stopped counting after 30 drops. Oops.
pH 7.5
TA 130
CYA 100

I have not added anything to the water tonight and I'll just wait to see what the water looks like in the morning.

Gonna go remove the knee-highs for the night and will replace tomorrow when I can check on them every hour.

I've been thinking, after spending some time on this site, I am having doubts of the actual gallons of water in the pool. Based on the rough estimate of 15x35x4.5=2,362.50*7.5= 17,718.75. That's almost half of the 32k the previous owner told me...any thoughts?

 

[Phree&Clear]

Re: Slime Bag

Some night time pics and the "debris/sand"

I have also noticed that blue specks are being caught up as well. It looks like the pool wall is chipping away too...

 

[frogabog]

Re: Slime Bag

I can't comment on many of your issues, someone else will do that I'm sure.

I did want to point out that with your CYA level of 100, your minimum chlorine should never be less than 8ppm, and you'll want to aim for 13ppm to start the day with to make sure you don't fall below 8ppm by the end of the day. So, this means you won't be able to yse the OTO (yellow/red block) test for your pool, it will/should always show bright yellow and orange if your pool has enough chlorine.

Additionally, are you positive the CYA is only 100? Have you performed a diluted CYA test to double check? The CYA test is not able to accurately measure past 100, so that might also be something to check again.

Since you stopped the FAS-DPD test you haven't completed it, and thus we don't have a Total Chlorine (TC) value for your pool which would tell us if you have Combined Chlorine (CC) or not. The cloudiness may or may not only be particulates, and you'll need to complete that test (regardless of how many drops it takes) so that those here can help diagnose what's going on and help you fix it.

If you can post a complete set of results, perhaps with a new diluted CYA test (dilute by 50% with tap water) it would be very helpful.

I also would point out that CYA of 100 will mean that your pool will remain difficult to manage and a 50% drain and refill would benefit you greatly as it'll reduce the amount of chlorine you have to add to the pool every day. If you are using any kind of granulated chlorine or tablets, it's time to stop so you don't increase CYA any further. Shocking with a CYA of 100 requires 25ppm, and having to keep the pool at 8ppm as a minimum, dosing to 13 every night... takes a lot of chlorine. I wouldn't want to deal with that personally.

 

[Bama Rambler]

Maybe I'm not reading this correctly, but do you have regular filter sand in your filter now or the play sand? If you still have some play sand in there, you're going to continue to have sand wash into the pool and out the backwash until all the fine particles are gotten out. The slime bag would be a good way of catching them.

I agree that your volume is way off. It would have been nice to have finished the FC test, not only for the number but to see what the change was.

Besides the sand you have another problem. You're going to need to shock the pool, and as Frog said, with a CYA of 100+ that's going to be hard to do. I suggest draining half the pool water and refilling and then run all the test again. We'll go from there.

 

[Phree&Clear]

Thanks for taking the time to respond. It started off as a great morning-the pool looked amazingly better. The PSI had increased significantly overnight since adding the DE and all the additional cleaning it did so I wanted to backwash before I left for work and add more DE. Then my hose decided to split open and scare the heck out of my dogs! So needless to say the little time I had was spent fixing backwash issues instead of taking readings =/

We then decided to drain the spa so we could get as much of the sand out so my husband got that done before I got home. When I got home and into the spa to clean, I had been in there no more than 5 minutes and the attached light decided to burn out. After removing the fixture we couldn't get 2 of the 6 screws undone and started to strip them. New project for tomorrow. Yay.

We also learned that there are patches of paint that are now debris and will eventually need to be repainted.

Once we got the spa cleaned out and refilled it, got the plumbing lines primed, pump/filter running smoothly, and added DE, a midnight swim was necessary to help stir up all the stuff on the bottom that settled from the pump being off for several hours.

Since water was added to the pool I will attempt to do my reading in the AM (if my backwashing is successful) and post those asap. I know its no where near "half" the pool water but its a start, and I'll have the weekend to do nothing but focus on the pool!

 

[Phree&Clear]

Oh and as for the filter/sand issue, the play sand was put in to the old DE and was pushed into the pool at that time. The new filter had pool grade sand purchased together with the filter and that is currently in the Hayward.

For my CYA levels to have gotten that high, what chemicals have I added too much of? Before finding this site and wanting to go the BBB route, I did use plenty of 1lb. bags of shock over the months, 3" chlorine tabs in a floater, pH +, alkalinity +, some arm & hammer balanced in the form of 3" tabs...I was also relying on 6-way test strips for my readings!

Live and learn, and plenty of research/reading I guess

 

[frogabog]

For my CYA levels to have gotten that high, what chemicals have I added too much of? Before finding this site and wanting to go the BBB route, I did use plenty of 1lb. bags of shock over the months, 3" chlorine tabs in a floater, pH +, alkalinity +, some arm & hammer balanced in the form of 3" tabs...I was also relying on 6-way test strips for my readings!

Live and learn, and plenty of research/reading I guess

Yep... all that did it ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^_{(well except the alk up and ph up)}

You're not the first, and one of MANY in this situation. At least you know how to find out how to fix it now. Think of all the poor saps out there still battling with their pools. You are WAY COOLER than they are and you know it. Give yourself a hug and a smooch.

 

[Phree&Clear]

You are WAY COOLER than they are and you know it. Give yourself a hug and a smooch.

I knew it wasn't going to be easy, but c'mon!

So I did my readings this morning and they're staggering:

CHL - 54 drops x .5 = 31.97 the CC's stayed a "dirty" clear. Did not turn pink at all.
pH - 7.5
TA - 140
CYA - 140 (I did the diluted test, 1/2 pool water 1/2 tap water, and the black dot disappeared at the 70 ppm line)
CH - 16 drops x 10 = 160 (this dropped from the 200 level from the other day)

CSI - -0.13

We started draining the pool this afternoon but only got it down a little less than a foot. Will continue in the AM. I guess I'll stop my readings until I get more of the water drained/then refilled.

I will be diving down with the hose while draining tomorrow, might as well use the motorized suction to get up more of that sand!

 

[JasonLion]

54 drops * .5 is 27, not 31.97. Just double checking, are you sure you are only using a 10 ml sample size when doing the FC/CC test? If you were using the 25 ml sample size your FC level would be 54 * .2 or 10.8.

Other than that, you need to lower CYA, which is your primary problem. Longer term, raising CH is a good idea, but wait for everything else to stabilize before worrying about CH.

 

[Phree&Clear]

Oh wow. I guess since the other tests used 25 ml samples I must have "seen" 25 and not 10. Thanks for looking out!

Back to draining.

 

[Phree&Clear]

Pools been drained and refilled.

This mornings readings:

FC - 5 (10 drops, using 10ml sample this time :-D )
CC - 0
pH - 7.2
TA - 120
CYA - 70
CH - 140

Will continue to vacuum the sand little by little using the DE in the filter to trap most of it.

Also, based on the picture of the whole pool posted above and the dimensions of 16x35 am I wrong to assume the number "32,000 gallons" that was originally told to me is VERY high? Because it is a custom shape, I would think it would be less gallons than a 'rectangle' pool (used the estimating pool volume: 16 x 35 x 4.5 = 17,700)

And, any reason why the previous owner would have put Diamond Crystal Solar Salt (extra course) in the pool if there is no SWG?
There is an unopened bag of it left in our shed along with various pool chemicals/supplies...

Thanks!

 

[frogabog]

Some people add salt to the pool without a SWG because it can apparently improve the feel of the water.

You could buy a salt test strip kit and check the level if you wanted to see if the previous owner added it or just bought it in case they installed a SWG in the future. Ya never know...

It could also have been purchased with the intent to melt ice.

 

[linen]

apparently improve the feel of the water.

Could be Algae salt
Ooops...sorry about going of topic like that

 

[frogabog]

Just my luck... first algae tap water... then algae salt...

What's next? Algae bleach? Algae kids? They're after me, I know it!