Pump Leak

May 8, 2007
174
El Paso, Texas
I have a pentair whisperflo pump, its 2 yrs old, PB installed, I have developed a leak between the pump and motor, I was wondering if this is kinda soon for a seal to go bad?, I m in El Paso TX I do not close my pool for the winter and I do have a freeze guard so the pump kicks on at 32, I was reading in the instruction manual that running the pump dry will make it leak, I haven't ran it dry, now when I do clean the basket the water lowers a little bit then when I start it back up it does run dry for about 1 minute until the water fill the basket area, I have tried to fill the water up in the basket but in comes out the jets there is now way to "top off" the basket with water.

I have already purchased a complete seal kit for the pump, I just want to prevent it from leaking again

Thanks

Rob
 
Replace all seals????

Repair guy,

I already have the complete seal kit, was wondering should I replace every seal or just the one that is leaking, the pump/motor is only 2 yrs old, and referring to the original post am I starting the pump right after cleaning the strainer, it primes by itself but runs dry for about 1 min

thanks
 
I have the a Whipserflo also. Mine is 3 years old and I just replaced the seal a few weeks ago for the second time. I don't know what the normal life expectancy of a seal is but this is my filter pump, used 3 hours a day in the winter and 10 - 12 hours a day in the summer. I'm in Northern CA and I don't close either so this pump is used everyday. So for me it seems 1 - 1.5 years is what I get out of it. I don't know if that is normal or not, but seems like a lot of hours.

The first time I changed the seal, there was also leaking from the housing also. Housing bolts were loose and the factory had mis-installed the rubber housing seal, it was not seated completely in the groove and had been pinched a little. I made sure the new one was seated correctly. However both times I could tell the seal had been leaking because the metal parts of the seal had rust and water stains on it.

Mine never loses prime after a clean out either. Takes maybe 10 - 15 seconds to completely fill the basket but I don't believe that is dry as water is coming in a little at first then more until the basket area is filled.

The seal is made out of a ceramic material (not rubber), which seems tough to me and I think only a little water is needed to keep it cool and undamaged. Early last year a friend's pump lost prime (due to air leaks) and the small amount of water left in the basket area got so hot the basket got soft and warped, but his seal doesn't leak.

In the seal there is a spring that pushes the ceramic parts together, in the old ones I took off I noticed the spring seemed weak, it may have been my imagination but I think it was easier to compress a little on one side than the other, but I don't know if for sure. So maybe the spring gets weak and causes the leakage??

PS It is not that big deal to change it yourself if you have a few hand tools and a bit of time. The seal itself is around $12, but then you need to source the other o-rings, seals and lube. I would change all the rubber o-rings and gaskets at this time too, I noticed on mine all the rubber was deteriorating - all left a black oily marks on my fingers. Why not do the complete job while you have it out of service? I found a kit that includes everything needed: Pac Fab Whisperflo O-Ring Kit Go-Kit 32 for $30US +shipping.

Do it before the water gets into the motor bearings and causes some real expensive damage.
 
Changed out pump seal Sucess

Grabbed the tools and went to change the seal that connects the motor to the pump, and as repair guy stated, the six bolts were lose, not finger lose, but lose, so I think I could of just tightned them up and it would of been good, but I had the seal kit already and went ahead a changed out 2 of the seals, as you said rocker, I got a black film from the seals as well, I though I was going to have a rough time when installing the big seal that mounts between the motor and pump, as the seal really didnt want to stay in the groove around the top two bolt holes but when I slowly tightened it I fell into place, I used the supplied lube, sparingly, about 1 hours worth of work, and no leaks, anyone with basic mechanical skills can do this, and besides it probally said me about a $100 bucks in labor, I put the rest of the seals, looks like a motor shaft seal and a small o ring in a ziplock bag for later.

Roseville CA, back in 1997-2000 I was an Army Recruiter in Yuba City, I loved northern CA. good 4 wheelin area

This gokit is only $23.00 +shipping

http://www.poolcenter.com/go_kits_by_aladdin.htm
 
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Good glad u got it fixed. The housing gasket takes a bit, I started at the top, got the seal in the groove around the bolt holes first. The rest was somewhat easier.

As long as you didn't notice anything wrong with the shaft seal then sounds like ur good to go. For future - you have to undo the motor casing bolts (very long bolts) and take the back motor plate off so as to hold the motor shaft so you can unscrew the impellor to get to the motor seal. When re-assembling, put some anti-seize on the threads of those bolts, as they sometimes rust.


Yup No. CA is great!...use to 4 wheel a bit myself, then my truck turned into a boulevard queen and the price of gas turned my 4X4 into a 2WD mini pickup!

Looks like they had a price drop on the go-kit 32...Good for you!
 
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