High chlorine level

[Acadian]

A few weeks ago i got my water tested at a pool store and they told me to add stabilizer. So i did. Now i can't seem to get my chlorine level down to normal. I have a Digital Auto Pilot which WAS set to Power Level 2 at about 25%. I have since dropped it to Power Lever 1 at about 13%. My chlorine seems to still be high.

This year, i also have a solar blanket, which i did not last summer.

I am using the drops in the water technique (with the plastic thingy that has one red side and one yellow). The PH seems to be around 7.4, but the yellow side for chlorine is off the chart. Is it possible that the drops are no longer good, i bought them last summer?

Is there something i'm missing or do i just shut off the salt machine for a day or so to let it lower by itself?

Thanks!

 

[Bama Rambler]

The OTO drops are good for a go/no-go test but not much use for telling what the FC really is. You need FAS-DPD test for that.
The FC level is determined from your CYA so unless you know that you really don't know if your FC is too high or not.
You really need a good test kit.
What's the highest your kit will read?

 

[JasonLion]

In addition to what Bama already mentioned, the solar blanket greatly reduces the amount of chlorine required.

 

[Acadian]

I think the highest it goes is 3.0 for the chlorine, if that makes sense. And the "good" level is around 1.0?

Last summer, i never added stabilizer nor did i have a blanket...but the chlorine test results (form the OTO drops) was always pretty decent.

My mom said the other day she thought she could smell the chlorine, but we never did last summer.

I should mention, i always circulate my water 24 hours a day (pump, filter and SWG).

Where can i buy a good kit in Canada?

 

[frogabog]

Since your test does not go above 3ppm, your assumption that your chlorine is too high could be in error. That test shows "off the charts" high at anything above 3ppm.

How much, and what kind of stabilizer did you add? See... since if you added even 30ppm worth of stabilizer (total 30ppm), your minimum chlorine level is 3ppm, and your target is 7. With SWG it's supposed to be a little lower (@cya 70 --> SWG CL = 3ppm constantly), plus you won't be dosing to target daily. But w/o a number for CYA we can't begin to assess the situation.

For now, you can dilute the OTO test by 50% or 75% and get a better idea of your true FC level. Use distilled water, or tap water set out overnight (to clear chlorine) for the dilution, and multiply the result by either 2, or 3 depending on your dilution method.

I do not know where to get a test kit in Canada, although I know many have been able to buy the Taylor K-2006 there. If you search the forum, for "canada" and "kit" I think you will find the sources in some of the thread results. Use the google search at the bottom left of this page for more comprehensive results with words less than 4 letters ("kit" might be ignored with the regular search function here).

The reason behind your SWG being set low, yet FC is slow to drop is because you have added CYA. This is good, your cell will last longer and you can relax and set it at a lower setting now. This was all supposed to happen. I am no SWG expert, but with you running it 24/7 perhaps it would be better to run it a few hours a day (5-10 maybe?) and see how that works. I do believe they are not intended to be run 24/7 although I could be wrong about that. (I'm still waiting for my SWG/sand filter bundle to decide to arrive since it mysteriously got "delayed" on the way to the west coast and now I have to wait till the 30th. I know someone out there has my bundle all happily installed in their pool... and I want it back!)

If you prefer to run the SWG 24/7, then maybe dial it wayyy down and see how that works. Personally I run my pumps 24/7 but they're crappy Intex style w/paper crummy filters and I need/want the 100% filtering. I would not recommend running an Intex pool on any other filtering schedule but SWG is not a filter and can be timed with good results.