Bonding Clamps
- Thread starter mkdsk101
- Start date
Any of the big box home improvement stores will have them. Also any electrical supply house will have them too.
Bama Rambler said:
Thanks. Maybe you can help me out with something else. I am running my own electric and I know that I need to run the wire in conduit but do i use 2 #12 or #10 wires in the conduit? Does the convenience receptacle have to have a GFIC circuit breaker? Also. does the ground wire have to be a BARE copper wire or insulated? Thanks for your help.
I need to know a lot more than that to help with anything except the GFCI, it's a yep to that. 
What all are you running the wire for?
What all are you running the wire for?
The run will be less then 30 feet...
Here is what I know.
a. If a pump motor receptacle is located between 6’ – 10’ from the inside pool wall, the receptacle must be a single twist-lock outlet, grounded, and Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI) protected
b. Receptacle must have a weatherproof cover that can be closed when the cord is plugged in. (In-use type cover)
c. An Automatic Timer (Time Switch) must be installed on swimming pool pumps.
d. The circuit line for the pump motor must be a continuous line going directly to the panel box, and is to be isolated from all other receptacles.
e. Wire for the pump motor shall not be less than #12 AWG insulated copper grounded wire, and must be in conduit. (except when entering a building the wire can change to NM) (Cannot use UF wire in conduit)
f. Conduit
i. PVC – All PVC conduit* must be buried at least 18†deep
ii. Metal – All Rigid Metal Conduit* must be at least 6†deep
* Wires used in conduit must be single strand wires (ex: THHN, etc) NO UF CABLE
2) Convenience Receptacle (Outlet) and Wiring Method
a. At least one (1) convenience receptacle must be located not closer than 6’ but not further than 20’ from the inside pool wall (Can be existing and/or wired with any approved wiring method)
b. Convenience receptacle must be GFCI protected.
c. Must have a weatherproof cover where exposed to the weather (In-use type cover required on used, unattended, receptacles in wet locations)
d. Must be separate from the pool pump receptacle wiring.
e. Wiring
i. UF cable if buried must be at least 24†deep
ii. PVC – All PVC conduit* must be buried at least 18†deep
iii. Metal – All Rigid Metal Conduit* must be at least 6†deep
* Wires used in conduit must be single strand wires (ex: THWN, etc) NO UF CABLE
3) Bonding The Pool
a. All metal parts must be bonded together using a #8 (or larger) solid copper wire. (motor, ladder, lights, etc)
b. Must use non-corrosive clamps.
c. Conductive pool shells must be bonded in a minimum of four (4) equal spots uniformly spaced around the pool.
d. Nonconductive pool shells must have a #8 (or larger) solid copper wire 18"-24" from the inside pool wall under the perimeter surface 4"-6" below the final grade.
Here is what I know.
a. If a pump motor receptacle is located between 6’ – 10’ from the inside pool wall, the receptacle must be a single twist-lock outlet, grounded, and Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI) protected
b. Receptacle must have a weatherproof cover that can be closed when the cord is plugged in. (In-use type cover)
c. An Automatic Timer (Time Switch) must be installed on swimming pool pumps.
d. The circuit line for the pump motor must be a continuous line going directly to the panel box, and is to be isolated from all other receptacles.
e. Wire for the pump motor shall not be less than #12 AWG insulated copper grounded wire, and must be in conduit. (except when entering a building the wire can change to NM) (Cannot use UF wire in conduit)
f. Conduit
i. PVC – All PVC conduit* must be buried at least 18†deep
ii. Metal – All Rigid Metal Conduit* must be at least 6†deep
* Wires used in conduit must be single strand wires (ex: THHN, etc) NO UF CABLE
2) Convenience Receptacle (Outlet) and Wiring Method
a. At least one (1) convenience receptacle must be located not closer than 6’ but not further than 20’ from the inside pool wall (Can be existing and/or wired with any approved wiring method)
b. Convenience receptacle must be GFCI protected.
c. Must have a weatherproof cover where exposed to the weather (In-use type cover required on used, unattended, receptacles in wet locations)
d. Must be separate from the pool pump receptacle wiring.
e. Wiring
i. UF cable if buried must be at least 24†deep
ii. PVC – All PVC conduit* must be buried at least 18†deep
iii. Metal – All Rigid Metal Conduit* must be at least 6†deep
* Wires used in conduit must be single strand wires (ex: THWN, etc) NO UF CABLE
3) Bonding The Pool
a. All metal parts must be bonded together using a #8 (or larger) solid copper wire. (motor, ladder, lights, etc)
b. Must use non-corrosive clamps.
c. Conductive pool shells must be bonded in a minimum of four (4) equal spots uniformly spaced around the pool.
d. Nonconductive pool shells must have a #8 (or larger) solid copper wire 18"-24" from the inside pool wall under the perimeter surface 4"-6" below the final grade.
I think you misunderstood.
In order to figure wire size I need to know what size the pump is. volts, amps, hp etc.
In order to figure wire size I need to know what size the pump is. volts, amps, hp etc.
I run no less that #10..Has worked for me..Run's of a single 20 amp breaker that has a outside refrigerater on it..I have a GFC outlet ..Fixed it where it is plug'd in underneith house..Just a heavy duty reg plug..Then another GFC outlet at pool..Have not had a bit of problem The only down to #10 is wire is hard to get in box &hard to work with..I here all the bonding thing..I agree but never did it with mine& never had a prob...I'm running about 75 ft to pool..
If your run is no longer than 30 feet and you're only using a 1 hp pump, you can run #12 awg wires. You will need to put it on a gfci. You need to follow the requirements you posted a couple posts back also.
#10 is better, and more expensive and more difficult to work with. Based on what Bama said, you can go either way.
Does the two #12 wires have to be different colors that I rum through the conduit and does the ground wire have to be bare copper or can it be stranded?
Wire color depends on the voltage. For 120 they should be black, white, and green. For 240 they can be two the same (usually black or red) and a green (for ground).
The ground wire must be insulated, point 1e from your list above. It is bonding wires that need to be bare.
The ground wire must be insulated, point 1e from your list above. It is bonding wires that need to be bare.
JasonLion said:
I am only running 120. Why would I run 240 to a 1hp pool pump? Why do the wires have to be different colors?
They don't have to be black and white, but you do need to be able to tell them apart. 120 volt circuits have hot, neutral, and ground. You need to be able to tell hot apart from neutral.
Similar threads
