CONCERNED ABOUT ...

[SHADEZ]

a couple of weeks after starting the season first pool store results (havent got a taylor kit yet)
6\29 (ADMIRALS)
TC 0.2
FC 0
PH 6.4
TA 40
CH 150
CYA 0
7\10 (LESLIES)
TC 0
FC 0
PH 6
TA 70
CH 160
CYA 40
TDS 500
NITRATES 2
PHOSPHATES 200
2 days later (LESLIES)
TC 5
FC 5
PH 6.2
TA 60
CH 120
CYA (Ram Out of Tests (ROT))
TDS 500
PHOSPHATES 0
TODAY LESLIES\ADMIRALS
TC 5\4.6
FC 5\4.6
PH 7.2\7.2
TA 80\105
CH 130\75
CYA ROT\140
TDS 550

These varying differences make me uneasy and unsure how to proceed. I'd say drain 71 percent but it's not really my call since I'm not the owner per say. the pool was clear for about a month when the levels where below zero across the board didn't have enough chlorine now we do.
Uncle said keep feeder full and on full or all the way up, I didn't think that was right but he's taken care of the pool for ten years and the elder so i didn't touch it to avoid being wrong and yelled at.
Now the pool is light green has been for a week since we started brringing the levels up. Filters cleaned out, I'm hesitant to add more chlorine since the levels are so high and all the recommendations are for about 2 ppm. pool stores said the cya is fine. I'm pretty sure i have to shock since its green but that's alot of chlorine.

I bought pool shock bleach so i could avoid this cya hassle with the trichlor pucks people want me to use

 

[Richard320]

2 ppm FC is nowhere near high enough if any of those CYA tests are accurate.

Without your own kit, you're flying blind. You're going to need to shock, that much is for sure. But without reliable numbers, there's really no way to do it.

 

[SHADEZ]

i forgot to note my aunt set the trichlor feeder down to 2 .. and 2 ppm fc? .. it's at 5 from both stores

 

[Richard320]

i forgot to note my aunt set the trichlor feeder down to 2 .. and 2 ppm fc? .. it's at 5 from both stores

"I'm hesitant to add more chlorine since the levels are so high and all the recommendations are for about 2 ppm. pool stores said the cya is fine. I'm pretty sure i have to shock since its green but that's alot of chlorine."
That's where I got the 2 from. And I'm done here.

 

[SHADEZ]

Oh sorry i see i don't know what the 2 on the dial means it just says 1 through 10
sorry for my misunderstanding

i have hth test kit from walmart reagent kit and just got some strips from leslies
the hth cya kit i really don't know how to use i tried it before and it said it was over 100 but the store 2 days later said it was 0 .. and then 40 ...
test strip results i have bad eyes soo .. used 2 strips .. these strips dry out to quickly
first strip
total hardness between 0-100
second strip(SS) says above 100
TC above 5
SS 5
FC above 5
SS 5
PH 7
SS 7.2
TA less than 120
CYA greater than 150

 

[SHADEZ]

all these pool store pamphlets and stuff online says 1 to 3 ppm chlorine of course they don't say anything about cya in relation to a safe level

 

[frogabog]

Time to stop talking to pool stores.

Trust your HTH testing on CYA. Your pool is green because it has algae. You don't need a CC reading to tell you that you need to shock. The color alone (if not from copper) tells you plenty.

The CYA level you're getting on your test is what you should go by. Trust your readings over the pool store always.

If you can't drain and refill, you MUST shock at the level for the CYA your pool has in it now. Diluting the OTO test in your walmart 6-way can help you find shock level (use distilled water, or leave tap water out at least overnight) but it will not be accurate.

The pool recommendations from mainstream sources (pool store, mainstream online) are so willy nilly it's not funny. 1-3ppm is only when your CYA level is less than 23pm. 23ppm from tri-chlor pucks is about a month's worth of pucks. Apparently we are only supposed to use our pools for one month a year, drain and refill next year, if you believe those numbers.

Now you get to decide... take control of the pool and tell uncle everything is fine but you had to reduce cyanuric acid with a drain and refill (send him a text pic when the pool is fixed) or buy lots of bleach and battle with the pool for the next 9 weeks of swim season.

Here's the sweet part... all you need to complete the HTH kit that you have is the DPD powder kit and CYA kit. Add those two to your HTH kit and you're set.

Or buy the TF100. It's twice the price of those reagents, but a very good deal regardless. You won't find CYA and DPD any cheaper than TFTestkits btw. I already tried and failed locally with a fairly decent pool/spa store. Shipping is FAST as well. I can't recommend them more, prolly should alter my signature to say so. Good peeps.

 

[Bama Rambler]

I suggest you read Pool School several times until it sinks in. And stop listening to the pool store and those other places. You're just confusing yourself.

If you're interested in maintaining a clear and Trouble Free pool, you need to get a good test kit and learn to use it and understand that the rsults that you get from it are way better than strips or the pool store will ever be.