My first post in this great site may sound weird but I have a problem. We have an Intek 18' round above ground pool that is located about 10' from a steel building,I decided to make a homemade solar heater useing black irrigation tubing and garden hoses with a 1/2 hp submersible pump. Everything was working fine for about 3 weeks when I noticed a film of oil in the pool one evening, my wife and her friend were in the pool alot that day so I assumed it was tanning oil or sun screen that was in the water. The next day my wife put the pump into the pool and plugged it in but it didn't start pumping,you probably see where I'm going here. The pump's motor was oil encased and it started to leak into the pool. I ran the filter all day and the film is gone and the sides of the pool don't feel oily but is my water ruined and how about the sand in the filter? I just ordered a TF-100 kit and it will be here next week. What should my next step be?
Oil in water
- Thread starter MK1985
- Start date
Welcome to the forum 
You should start shocking the pool - directions in Pool School.
An enzyme product, like Pool Perfect, could be used.
Also, the absorbant mats, can't remember the name of those things, would help pick up/remove some oil.
Post a full set of test results and we can help you get started with the shock process.
Keep an eye on your filter psi and backwash when needed - about a rise of 6 psi over the clean psi reading.
Pls add your pool and equipment info in your sig.
You can also google "motor oil" , bottom left of this page.
You should start shocking the pool - directions in Pool School.
An enzyme product, like Pool Perfect, could be used.
Also, the absorbant mats, can't remember the name of those things, would help pick up/remove some oil.
Post a full set of test results and we can help you get started with the shock process.
Keep an eye on your filter psi and backwash when needed - about a rise of 6 psi over the clean psi reading.
Pls add your pool and equipment info in your sig.
You can also google "motor oil" , bottom left of this page.
I'd try the enzyme product that BF listed and I'd probably plan on changing out the sand. At very least opening it up and inspecting it.
Check out http://www.mcmaster.com, in the search box enter 381 . this will bring you to page 381 of their catalog. Scroll down a little and you will see "Oil-Absorbent Polypropylene Microfiber Filter Bags". I have never used these particular bags but as an MRO http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maintenance,_repair,_and_operations I have purchased over $100,000 of products from this company over the last 6 years. They are a little expensive but a top notch company. If you purchase, make sure you select the correct flow rate. Cut off the ring and check out my post about the slimebag http://www.troublefreepool.com/slimebag-for-1-10-of-the-price-yes-you-can-t32951.html
Be warned, I learned the hard way, keep the bag on too long and the water becomes stagnent and bam, look at the nice green pool I created!
Be warned, I learned the hard way, keep the bag on too long and the water becomes stagnent and bam, look at the nice green pool I created!
Exactly what H warned about when we were researching a DIY solar system a few weeks ago. It's the first thing he checked on the model of submersibles we have around the house. Sigh... too bad. That sucks.
edit: just thought of asking you if you were pumping to a solar coil on the roof or not? I ask because when H sized a pump (he represents commercial/industrial/municipal pumps, 25y now) for us to get to the roof from our pool which is about 9' from the house, a 1/2hp pump would not do it. Add in the resistance of all that irrigation tubing and it was short on head by about 7'. We had roughly 20' to the roof. The motor might have been undersized for the application if you were doing something like this. FYI on the repair, size the head plus length of run including tubing resistance. We found all this information in the specs of the pumps and irrigation vendors.
edit: just thought of asking you if you were pumping to a solar coil on the roof or not? I ask because when H sized a pump (he represents commercial/industrial/municipal pumps, 25y now) for us to get to the roof from our pool which is about 9' from the house, a 1/2hp pump would not do it. Add in the resistance of all that irrigation tubing and it was short on head by about 7'. We had roughly 20' to the roof. The motor might have been undersized for the application if you were doing something like this. FYI on the repair, size the head plus length of run including tubing resistance. We found all this information in the specs of the pumps and irrigation vendors.
A little skim of oil on the surface is not a big deal. A couple of gallons of motor oil calls for a big production, but a few oz of oil normally only requires some extra chlorine and maybe a scum bug or scum ball.
Thanks for all the replys. Jason there seems to only be a light skim on the surface so hopfully I can get it cleaned up wihout a major tear down. When I get my test kit I will post the readings. Do you think I should aleast change the sand or backwash and watch the psi. I really don't think there was alot of oil that leaked out but alittle oil on the surface still dosen't look good.
Do watch the filter pressure. There is no point in changing the sand unless the filter pressure goes up and stays up after a backwash, which shouldn't happen here.
Chlorine will break down the oil, but not quickly. If it is only a little oil, it should be quickly enough. If you want it gone faster the first two things to try are a scum ball or scum bug to soak up oil in the skimmer and/or an enzyme treatment.
Chlorine will break down the oil, but not quickly. If it is only a little oil, it should be quickly enough. If you want it gone faster the first two things to try are a scum ball or scum bug to soak up oil in the skimmer and/or an enzyme treatment.