intellichlor power center transformer specs

[choproxy]

I was given an INtellichlor IC40 cell. It looks to be in good shape but to use it I need a Power Center. Looking at the PDF the power center is simply a transformer. Does any one know the specs for it. Volts, Amps would be enough to get going. Does the power center provide Dc or just raw AC

I have a 36000 inground pool that we use tablets to chlorinate. Going to SWG would be nice
Thanks for any help.

 

[Melt In The Sun]

Hate to break it to you, but the power center is a lot more than just a transformer. I don't think it's really possible to use the cell without it.

 

[choproxy]

I can see on the PDF there are connections to other products that are optional like pump control. Put it looks as though the power center just delivers DC to the IC40 module.

In a system with just a power center and the IC40 what elese would the power center be doing?

 

[JasonLion]

The power center provides DC. There isn't very much more than a transformer and DC rectifier in the power center, but there is a little more. Of course Pentair doesn't say what exactly nor do they provide any specifications. If you want to build your own substitute, you are on your own. Keep in mind that the safety rules for transformers used with swimming pools are much stricter than they are for household transformers.

 

[Melt In The Sun]

I was thinking in terms of reversing polarity, % time on, that sort of thing. Perhaps I misunderstood?

 

[JasonLion]

The IntelliChlor has control settings directly on the cell housing. It can also be connected to an automation system to give you more complete control from there. The power center doesn't do much, mostly just supply low voltage DC. This is very different from nearly every other unit out there, where the controls are all on the power center.

 

[choproxy]

The DC reversing is done in the IC40 itself. And Im not using any other devices to connect tot he system

I have built boxes for Pentair submersible low voltage lights using the correct safety transformer with the ground cage between the primary and secondary windings. Saved me hundreds of dollars for a very simple 12Vac power supply

I would do the same for the power center. I just hate to spend $300+ for a box with a transformer and rectifier. But to do it right I need to know the voltage the power center puts out and the approximate VA

 

[New2Me]

I think that when I put a meter on mine (connected to the dry IC40 to test it) I got 36VDC. The IC4o itself has regulators for its controls and relays, and will probably work with any DC voltage in the range specified on page 15 of the manual linked below, which you might find useful.
"Output: 22-39 VDC @ 6 AMPS maximum from the Power Center."

http://www.discountpoolmart.com/ima...lor_power_center_installation_users_guide.pdf

Good Luck and Best Wishes!

 

[choproxy]

Thanks for Voltage info
36V DC sounds sensible since as you say the manual says 22-39V at 6amps
I saw that the power center plug has 4 pins.
Im guessing the smaller pins marked DT+/- are for serial communictaions for other optional controllers and the heavier red and black wires are for ground and 36V Dc

 

[New2Me]

Well I was mistaken about the voltage - it should be 39. You are correct about the wiring, here are some pics that might help. You can see the rectifier board marked data, data, ground(black) and 39V(red.) Those 4 wires then go to the keyed connector- green, red, white, black in a circle with green in the front. In p4, the top of the picture is the front, so it goes green, black, white, red in a clockwise pattern, and the wide keyway is above green, black has a small keyway aligned with it, white has no keyways near, and red has one slightly offset. If you pull back the insulation on your cord you can see if they kept the color codes on the cell side. If all of the wires are the same color then you can mark them, cut off the plug and just use speed nuts to wire it up to your power supply.

 

[New2Me]

rest of the pics - looks like the order I wanted them in didn't stick.
Good Luck, and Best Wishes!

 

[choproxy]

Thanks NEW2Me. Pictures are worth a 1000 words and yours are sweet

 

[-=PEAKABOO=-]

Thanks NEW2Me. Pictures are worth a 1000 words and yours are sweet

Just curious choproxy, what ever came of your diy power supply plans?

 

[Clarkkent84]

FYI I have done this many times- you can purchase a 36v 10a power supply on eBay for under $40- use the red and black wires from the cell as described and voila- you just screwed pentair out of $400- the challenge is mounting the power supply somewhere weatherproof- I have found room for them inside the large pentair intellitouch power center and also mounted them inside a generic steel enclosure- mounted one inside a heater before too- kept the rain off of it but the power cord got melted lol

 

[tmobileguy]

FYI I have done this many times- you can purchase a 36v 10a power supply on eBay for under $40- use the red and black wires from the cell as described and voila- you just screwed pentair out of $400- the challenge is mounting the power supply somewhere weatherproof- I have found room for them inside the large pentair intellitouch power center and also mounted them inside a generic steel enclosure- mounted one inside a heater before too- kept the rain off of it but the power cord got melted lol

Thanks for the information.... I already bought the powercenter, but if mine ever fails, I am going to just buy a 36v 10amp power supply and cut their existing connections in the box and wire up the retro fit... I run 220v into mine so I guess I would have to find one that converts 220v AC to 36v DC... Are 220v power supplies common?

 

[Clarkkent84]

No that's where you might have a problem- I run 120v to the power supply units that I pick up on eBay- they are manufactured in 240v configurations but not split phase- so you would have to run 120v to the unit- I bought another power supply and ordered 24v by mistake im going to try hooking this up to an intellichlor cell and see how it does since the range of voltage was posted earlier here as between 22 and 39 vdc

 

[flpoolgeek]

Hi Guys!

I just ordered a T cell 15 for the Aquarite Salt System. I want to order a power supply to power it but I'm not sure which power supply to order. I would love your input on this.

According to inyopools.com (http://www.inyopools.com/HowToPage/how-to-read-and-adjust-the-hayward-aqua-rite-scg-operational-values.aspx):

"...CELL VOLTAGE - The Cell Voltage is typically 22.0 to 25.0 Volts when chlorine is being generated, otherwise it is 30 to 35 Volts."

and

"...CELL AMPERAGE - The cell's average amperage when chlorine is being generated varies with the size of cell installed: T-15 is 3.1 to 8.0 amps; T-9 is 2.3 to 6.7 amps; T-5 is 1.9 to 5.7 amps; and t-3 is 1.3 to 4.5 amps. When the cell is not generating chlorine the amperage is 0"

What power supply should do the trick? The same as the one you guys mentioned for the Pentair IC40?

I do realize that without a controller, the salt cell will always be generating but I intend to use a different controller with a relay to handle the powering on/off of the salt cell.

I really do appreciate any direction you could give me on this. Thanks!

 

[keithpreston]

This post inspired me to DIY the power supply, so I'd thought I'd post some tips. I bought a house with an easy touch system, but no chlorinator. The power center has a space for 3 parts, transformer, Rectifier Board, and Cable. The replacement parts for these are almost $500. Instead, I bought just the IC40 and a cheap power supply ($26 shipped) off eBay (AC 110V-220V to DC 36V 400W 11A Switch Power Supply). After installing the chlorinator in the plumbing, I ran the existing wire into the power center. I cut off the connector from the Chlorinator to find 4 wires. Black Ground, Red 36v, White Data+, Green Data-. You can also verify these by testing the cutoff connector and the post above (the plug is mirror of the connector described above) I wired the power supply to the relay for my pump and then Red (36v) and Black (Ground) to the power supply. At this point the chlorinator will light up and work normally. Then I connected the White and Green to the COM port of my easy touch. The com port had existing data+ (Yellow) and data- (Green) wires in them from the pump. I wired in White (Data+) matched with Yellow (data+) on the com port, then green (data-) with green(data-). Now I could see the easy touch communicating with the chlorinator. I can see the salt level and control the output %. Success! Easier then I expected.

 

[mknauss]

Be sure you have wired the SWCG transformer through the LOAD side of the Filter/pump relay. That ensure there is no power to the SWCG when the system is not in Pool or Spa mode (depending on what ET you have).

 

[vsman]

This post inspired me to DIY the power supply, so I'd thought I'd post some tips. I bought a house with an easy touch system, but no chlorinator. The power center has a space for 3 parts, transformer, Rectifier Board, and Cable. The replacement parts for these are almost $500. Instead, I bought just the IC40 and a cheap power supply ($26 shipped) off eBay (AC 110V-220V to DC 36V 400W 11A Switch Power Supply). After installing the chlorinator in the plumbing, I ran the existing wire into the power center. I cut off the connector from the Chlorinator to find 4 wires. Black Ground, Red 36v, White Data+, Green Data-. You can also verify these by testing the cutoff connector and the post above (the plug is mirror of the connector described above) I wired the power supply to the relay for my pump and then Red (36v) and Black (Ground) to the power supply. At this point the chlorinator will light up and work normally. Then I connected the White and Green to the COM port of my easy touch. The com port had existing data+ (Yellow) and data- (Green) wires in them from the pump. I wired in White (Data+) matched with Yellow (data+) on the com port, then green (data-) with green(data-). Now I could see the easy touch communicating with the chlorinator. I can see the salt level and control the output %. Success! Easier then I expected.

Quick question- You connected the ebay power supply to 220v correct? Or to 110v