Housewarming Party in 4 Days! - Milky Blue Water

Jul 11, 2011
9
Hello all,

I'm new to this forum and after browsing the Pool School information available, I decided to post since I'm running out of ideas and so are the people at the pool store.

My husband and I purchased a foreclosure property in November of last year that has a 18 x 36, 25,000 gallon inground pool with vinyl liner. The pool had been drained when the property was foreclosed so we had to replace the liner, the pump, the pool housing, and the O-ring and spider ring in the multiport. The sand in the filter was not replaced & we're not sure how long it's been since the previous homeowners replaced it, but the pool guy said the pool, aside from the liner, looked relatively new. This is our first time owning a pool, and even though I know a little bit about chemistry from when I was a lifeguard when I was a teenager back in the day, we're still learning.

We filled up the pool and had no problem for months. I added the first batch of Bioguard chemicals as directed and it stayed blue for quite some time. We kept up with brushing, manually vacuuming, backwashing, and cleaning the skimmer baskets. Ocassionally, we had a problem with the Georgia pollen but was quickly fixed with Skim Mors skimmer basket covers. Then summer time rolled around and we have been battling algae (green I think) ever since.

It turned pea soup green once or twice when we got some heavy rain and didn't shock it as regularly, but I was able to turn it blue in a matter of two days by using 6 lbs of the Omni Shock predissolved (as I was told to do by the lady at the pool store) and then we would just vacuum the dead spots.

Then, I broke my ankle and was unable to keep up the pool for about 3 weeks. My husband works all day and was unable to vacuum it at night. It turned dark green and was that way for about another week until I managed to get out there to clean the skimmer baskets and backwash it really good & add chlorine. I took a sample in and added the chemicals they sold me (ph Up, a couple bags of shock, alkalinity and algaecide).

The dark green turned to a lighter shade of green and I brushed it as well as I could. We also found frogs and tiny tadpoles in the skimmer basket.

Then we wanted to swim but didn't have the money to buy the chemicals from the pool store so my husband bought about 6 lbs of Xtra Blue shock from Walmart and added those in, predissolved. The next morning, it was a milky blue. I let it sit for a day or so to let the shock work, and brushed up any undissolved shock, but I couldn't see the bottom to see what I was brushing.
It remained milky blue.

We bought some more of the shock from Walmart and added 6 lbs more 2 days later. It remained milky blue and hasn't budged since. This was about 2 weeks ago. I added about 10 more lbs of shock and still, nothing. I took a sample in, and she said my free chlorine was practically non-existent and that my PH was low. I added 3 chlorine tablets and those dissolved within a day or so and upped the PH. I have a test kit that shows PH and CL and I test usually within 24 hours of adding the chemicals and every other day. She also sold me some Smart Shock from their store and I added 5 lbs of it and it's still cloudy.

Then it rained, and I added a bottle of 50% algaecide. It rained again so we added another bottle. It foamed and bubbled, and now there is a milky film over the deep end. I tried to fish them out as best as I could with a net and use a Skim Mor to try and catch some of it in the skimmer basket.

My husband got out there a couple days ago and brushed it for a good 2 hours. We were planning to vacuum blindly, but the bristles on the vacuum were bad and we were afraid of tearing the vinyl liner, so today we replaced them and I actually got in with my clothes on and vacuumed and brushed the whole pool to make sure we got to the hard to reach spots. Usually when I brush and there is algae present, it gets kicked up and the blue turns green again, but so far we didn't see anything.

To make a long story short, I've probably spent about $200-300 in the past two weeks on chemicals, trying to turn this milky blue pool, clear. I've taken in samples 4 or 5 times in the last two weeks, making sure that all the chemicals are balanced. At the clerk's advice, over the course of two weeks, we've added polysheen blue clarifier, turboshock, regular shock, algaecide alkalinity increaser, chlorine, Skim Mors skimmer basket covers, a filter aid, ph Up, and we've managed to get the chemicals the most balanced they've been since the ordeal started, this week. We have a housewarming party in 4 days that is also a pool party and I have about 10-15 people (including kids) coming expecting to swim, if it doesn't rain.

Every day I clean the skimmer basket twice a day, clear debris from the pool housing, replace the Skim Mor skimmer basket covers and if I need to add shock, I do so at night and have lately been broadcasting it. The lady at the pool store suggested we turn off the skimmer at night and let it pull from the main drain. We did that. Nothing changed. Normally, I backwash once a week and since we've had this problem, I backwash once every couple of days to avoid wasting the chemicals we had just added in.

Here are the test results from this afternoon from the pool store:
CYA: 40
Total Chlorine: 4.5
Free Chlorine: 3.2
pH: 7.5
Adjusted Total Alkalinity: 70
Total Hardness: 203

The lady at the pool store suggested the following:
-Add 12 lbs of BioGuard Balance Pak 100 Total Alkalinity Increaser, since it was low.
-Add a 1 lb. bottle of filter aid, predissolved to the skimmer slowly.
-Finish off the bottle of Polysheen Blue Clarifier (which had less than 6 ounces in the bottle), since I've been adding 6 ounces daily for the past 3 days.
-Tonight, after the sun goes down: add 10 lbs of Turboshock, broadcasted.
-Turn off pump really late and turn it back on first thing in the morning after we vacuumed on filter in order to let the debris settle to the bottom.
-NOT backwash for at least 48 hours to let the filter aid take effect.

So this afternoon, my husband and I got out there and vacuumed the whole pool and brushed the whole pool. I got in with my clothes on and felt the bottom of the shallow end and walls with my feet and couldn't feel any debris along the bottom but we did it anyways. I made sure to brush the cover of the main drain in the deep end really good. I also cleaned the skimmer since I could see some algae growth on the walls inside the skimmer. We cleaned the skimmer basket and made sure the chlorine tablets were not dissolved. I backwashed and rinsed it for a few moments to clear the filter. Then I added the 12 lb pound bag of alkalinity increased, predissolved. Then I finished off the bottle of the Polysheen Blue clarifier (about 6 oz.) and slowly added the filter aid to the skimmer, predissolved. I replaced the Skim Mor. Tonight I plan to add about 5 lbs of the Turboshock and see how it does before adding the other 5 since our chlorine is up.

We normally run the pump continuously for 24 hours straight and have never shut it off overnight except when we were having repairs done to the pool or the water level was below the skimmer.

How can I get this milky blue to water to clear up before Friday? I'd like to be able to clear up in the next two or three days, so I can atleast see what I'm vacuuming. I have not used the original shock (Omni Total Balance) we used before this happened, only the Walmart brands and the Smart Shock they sold me at the pool store. Could this be a factor? The lady at the pool store told me that aside from the alkalinity being low, chemistry is not my problem. Should I buy a couple bags of the Omni Total Balance Shock, if it's not cleared up in a day or two? Should I take her advice and shut off the pump for the night? My husband noticed that one of the two jets were shooting out murky water, but I figured that, that's because the water in the pool is murky and it's part of the recirculation? Should I go ahead and add the full 10 lbs of Turboshock?

At this point, I'm desperate. I've also attached pictures of the pool at its worst and this afternoon.

Thanks in advance,
Christina


At it's worst before very little treatment of chemicals or cleaning:
IMG_20110706_151034.jpg



This afternoon - milky blue, can't see the bottom or more than a foot down.
IMG_20110711_192331.jpg
 
Since your FC is 3.2 and your TC is 4.5, you have over the .5 CC. So click on pool school in the upper right hand corner and read the article on how to shock your pool. By reading this article and following the info in there you will be well on your way. Not saying it will be ready in 4 days, but could be. Also if you have any questions about shocking just ask.
 
Use liquid bleach to shock it with. Forget the algaecide and pool store shock stuff. See the chlorine/cya chart in pool school to determine your shock value. It's ok to shoot a coupel of ppm higher too. HOLDING it there is the key. Welcome!
 
Thanks for your quick replies.
I read the article and don't have a FAS-DPD test kit. Just the PH and CL test kit with the red and yellow coloring to add drops to. Currently, my CYA is 40, and according to the chart, it needs to be at a target of 5, and 16 to shock. Should I add all 10 lbs tonight, or just 5 and see how it does?

Also, this may be a dumb question, but I've seen people do it both ways. Is it better to predissolve the shock in water and distribute it evenly around the pool or should I be broadcasting it?

@woodyp: The liquid bleach won't damage the vinyl liner? Do I just need to add it directly to the pool? Or dillute it with water? Until I can get a test kit, how much bottles of bleach should I add for a 25,000 gallon pool?
 
They are giving sound advice. Shock using good old household bleach. Read and re-read How To Shock Yoor Pool in Pool School. I had a green swamp, complete with tadpoles when I opened this year and within a few days it was clear and sparkling. You must be diligent with it and test and dose often. Shocking is a process not a one or two time dose (contrary to what the pool stores say). Raise your chlorine (bleach) to your shock level for your CYA, it is 16 or thereabouts, keep your filter running 24/7 during the process, test again in an hour and add the dosage to get you back up to shock level. Lather, rinse, repeat...lol...but seriously, if you follow the directions in Pool School it WILL clear =)

Bleach will not damage your liner, I use it daily to chlorinate. Add it directly to your pool in front of the return, it will disperse throughtout the pool this way.
 
Bleach damaging vinyl liners is another of those great pool store myths! Just pour it slowly into the stream of water in front of the return (angle it towards the top some) with pump running. The pool calculator in pool school will tell you how much bleach to add for your volume. I gallon of 6% bleach will get you about 2 ppm for your pool or 8 to 10 gallons. You have to maintain it though or it's a waste of bleach. Just REACHING shock level will not work. It could drop off in an hour or two.
 
Add bleach directly to the pool by pouring it slowly in front of the return jet. Shocking will take lots of bleach... when you get your water to your shock level, you must keep it there, no letting the level drift back down. A good test kit is a must... it will give you control of your pool and you can avoid being what we affectionately refer to as being "Pool Stored". If you start the process right away, you may make some really good progress for your party, but each pool is different.
 
If you really want to maintain a clear and sparkly pool, you really should invest in a good test kit. The TF-Test kit sold on this site is excellent. It may seem a little pricey at first, but the reagents last a long time. And when you run out of something you can just order what you need, not the whole kit over again. It also ships very fast.
 
DON'T use the "shock."

The bleach is actually better for the liner than granules because the granules can settle on the bottom and fade the liner. Pour the bleach slowly in front of the return.

The bad news is you've wasted a lot of money on chemicals you don't need. The good news is you've come to the right place for help and your monthly cost will be amazingly low after you conquer the current problem. You will need gallons worth of bleach to properly shock. Without a FAS-DPD test it is tough to maintain shock level. You need to bite the bullet and spend the money for the good test kit, although it won't be there for Friday. Occasionally you can find a FAD-DPD at a local store but it is rare.

Read Pool School but start with How to Shock (think you alread read?) and this article: turning-your-green-swamp-back-into-a-sparkling-oasis-t4147.html
 
I'm just going to pile on here and say that starting from where you are now, it is not going to be too hard to get this clean. Might have been easier in fact without all the junk they have had you put into the pool but chlorine and filtration can fix even that.

Please do get a good test kit. The first step in recovery is to stop going to the pool store. I have the TF100, best value out there, order online only, fast shipping clear directions, lots of help here on the forum for any questions.

The second step is to read Pool School, get familiar with the Pool Calculator and the CYA/Chlorine Chart. Bookmark them.

Now, much as I hate to suggest it, we really need a new test of pool water since you added so much stuff afterwards so yo need to stop by the pool store. Again, FC, CC, TC, pH, TA, CH, CYA. Hopefully they use drop based tests and not just a stupid test strip run though a computer/box to make it look precise. When they try to sell you more stuff, just say that you are not yet done with the last batch of stuff and needed to see how it looked. Or just say nothing, thanks, bye.

You may need some help with the sand filter, I have no experience there. Someone can help with advice about backwashing frequency and possible things to look for there. Maybe the sand needs settling or a touch of DE, I can't say.
 

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As per the filter, I had DE, and switched over to a pentair sand so I could run zeo. Not too impressed with the Zeo, but adding some fiberclear helped a lot. (Pool plaster dust from new plaster.) Enough to raise your filter pressure by 1 pound is the usual recommendation for your sand filter. A small bag of fiberclear for a few dollars is more than enough. Sand filters work best when they have some dirt in them; you don't want to backwash too often. (My backwash indicator is set at 20 PSI; my starting pressure is about 10 PSI.) The fiberclear or DE helps jump start the process. Good luck.
 
Hi, you have gotten great advice from our members.

My suggestions are that you should follow the directions in Pool School for How To Shock Your Pool,
and order one of the recommended test kits. The fav around here is the TF100. Great service and best bang for the buck.
This is the best investment you can make in your pool.

xwildatheart said:
Normally, I backwash once a week and since we've had this problem, I backwash once every couple of days to avoid wasting the chemicals we had just added in.
Not meaning to sound harsh, but this is the wrong thing to do. You should backwash the filter every time the psi increases about 6 psi over the clean psi reading. During shocking and clearing dead algae and other organics, more frequent backwashing is needed. What does your gauge read? If you don't have a gauge, you need to get one! We can help you do any rebalancing that might be needed after the pool is cleared.

The only chemical you need is bleach/liquid chlorine. I suggest you go to WallyWorld and get a lot of jugs of bleach. WalMart store brand/Great Value bleach is very popular around here. You would need about six (6) gallons to take your pool from zero FC to about 16 FC, which is shock level for your CYA.

So, I suggest you get about 20 jugs to start with and have some on hand. Don't worry, you will use it and it will not go to waste. Use the PoolCalculator.Com to determine the correct doses.

Example: If your present(now) FC level is 10 and your target is 16, you would need to add about 2 gals. + 2 cups plain 6% bleach to reach shock level. Then you would test as often as possible and maintain shock level until you are done shocking . See red lines in my sig.

To give you an idea of how to maintain your pool with bleach/liquid chlorine after the shock process is completed, assuming your present CYA of 40 and normal/2.5ppm FC daily loss, you would need to add about one (1) gallon of 6% bleach each day.

Welcome to the forum :wave:
 
Thank you guys for all your help! It's a lot to take in, but I'm trying to get the hang of it.

anonapersona said:
Now, much as I hate to suggest it, we really need a new test of pool water since you added so much stuff afterwards so yo need to stop by the pool store. Again, FC, CC, TC, pH, TA, CH, CYA. Hopefully they use drop based tests and not just a stupid test strip run though a computer/box to make it look precise. When they try to sell you more stuff, just say that you are not yet done with the last batch of stuff and needed to see how it looked. Or just say nothing, thanks, bye.

You may need some help with the sand filter, I have no experience there. Someone can help with advice about backwashing frequency and possible things to look for there. Maybe the sand needs settling or a touch of DE, I can't say.

Last night, following everyone's advice, I used the Bleach calculator and added 4 (182 oz, 1.42 gal) jugs of bleach. Today, I wanted to see how it did, and it's extremely cloudy & can't see the bottom, so I dropped by the pool store on the way home to get my updated test results. Since I don't have a test kit, and one I ordered won't be here by the pool, I'm guessing I have to kind of do it by eye and use the test results the pool store gave me.

The lady at the pool store suggested I use Floc and move multiport to recirculate for 2 hours to drop the particles to the bottom to vacuum it up after shutting off the pump for 24 hours, but I've heard from various people that floc can make it even more cloudy.

Here are my numbers. My chlorine is high and my PH is low, so I'm planning to add (haven't added it yet) some PH up.

CYA: 55
Total Chlorine: 10
Free Chlorine: 8.8
pH: 7
Total Alkalinity: 119
Adjusted Total Alkalinity: 102
Total Hardness: 213
 
Leave the pH alone for now. Not bad enough to worry about I think. pH tests can be off when FC is above 10 and this is right on the margin. Anyhow, your TA is high and that will tend to drive pH up not down. I think it will be self correcting. Save the chems.

Ah, see that, the difference between Total and Free Chlorine? That is CC, Combined Chlorine = 1.2 ppm. That is used up chlorine, what makes that chlorine-y pool smell that people hate. That tells us you need to shock more. Organics in the pool using up chlorine. CC will go away with sun and wind, but high levels like 1.0+ is like a fever, tells us you have an infection, so to speak.

Chlorine at 10 has me just a bit troubled. I'd like to know that their test did not top out at 10. Can you call them to ask? Given that FC was 8.8 perhaps that is a valid number, but still, to know if they top out at 10 is important.

And the CYA at 55? That tells us that your shock level is 17, assuming it is correct. So more bleach is needed to go from 10 to 17+ (plus since it probably has fallen a little since that test, I'll guess that you should add 5, so 22) So, add bleach to 22 pm. Next time you go to the pool store, dilute your pool water with 50% dilstilled water, in case their test tops out at 10. This could be important, for if this is right, then the last attempt to shock was not enough to overcome the problem. Press on!
 
Forget the floc and bump up your chlorine to stay at your shock level. Actually, you have a higher CYA reading today so in theory, that would elevate your shock level as well. This is one example of why having your own test kit is so important, can't wait for you to get yours.
 
Since you have received two pieces of info that seem to contradict, I just want to point out that they are both right :)

Shock level for CYA of 55 is between 17 and 22.

17 is from the PoolCalculator.Com and the 22 is from the CYA/Chlorine Chart in Pool School.

Both shock levels will work, but one is more aggressive than the other.
 
anonapersona said:
And the CYA at 55? That tells us that your shock level is 17, assuming it is correct.

Where did you get that number? I have been using the chlorine/CYA chart here: http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-school/chlorine_cya_chart_shock Is there a different chart somewhere else? Or now that I think about it, it seems like the pool calculator gave different numbers than the chart. So, which one should be used?
 
Butterfly said:
Since you have received two pieces of info that seem to contradict, I just want to point out that they are both right :)

Shock level for CYA of 55 is between 17 and 22.

17 is from the PoolCalculator.Com and the 22 is from the CYA/Chlorine Chart in Pool School.

Both shock levels will work, but one is more aggressive than the other.


Thanks. I was just asking that question.
 

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