test results in - could use some help - thanks

[20GT]

FC = .5 ,TC = .5 ,pH = 8 ,TA = 140 ,CH = 180 ,CYA = 40 (7/7/11)

I know we need some chlorine. but after that whats a good algaecide that will work with our numbers.
From pinch-a-penny or Leslie pools?

thank you

5,061 gallons of water at 90% capacity <Orlando, Florida>
Intex 16' X 48" AG Metal Frame Above Ground Pool (Intex A 16 X 48 F B02 11 01)
Sand, SandPro 75 – 3/4 HP, 45GPM/2700GPH flow rate. GAM-4511 (Just days old 7/5/11)
Neon green colored water, 6 weeks.
FC = .5 ,TC = .5 ,pH = 8 ,TA = 140 ,CH = 180 ,CYA = 40 (7-7-11)

 

[woodyp]

You don't need algaecide. Chlorine works just fine. You should lower your PH to 7.2-7.4 though.

 

[zea3]

Also you do not have near enough chlorine. Is the water cloudy green or clear green? Has it been tested for metals? If the water is metal free all you need to clear it is liquid chlorine. Please review defeating algae and how to shock your pool for more information.

 

[anonapersona]

Use the Pool Calculator to find how much bleach you need to add to get to the top our the recommended range. Be sure to add pool size at the top and vinyl surface at the bottom, also select TFP goals. Not sure yet if you just need chlorine or if you need to shock for algae.

 

[20GT]

i'll check it out bringing down ph now. got some stuff from pinch a penny

 

[BadOleRoss]

Make sure to make use of the Pool Calculator to assist you in adding chemical to you pool. Muriatic acid is great for lowering PH if you are comfortable with handling it.

 

[20GT]

Thank thats what we have. my wife bought some stuff from pinchAPenny
Mur acid added half gall, 2 hours later 1 1/2 gal on chlorine, today some stop yellow(sodium bromide), i believe tomorrow 1 1/2 of chlorine. brush brush brush

 

[20GT]

:grrrr: Grrrr... called p-a-p to ask them a question they told me she was supposed to add the algeacide last night along with the chlorine. I understand about adding it at night (Chlorine). now we have wasted one whole day and 1 1/2 gal of chlorine. well the chlorine might not have been wasted .
what do you guys think should i abandon p-a-p? should i just go ahead and add the chlorine right now at 11am?
I'm going to go brush.....

 

[Bama Rambler]

You should have abandoned the pool store a long time ago. You don't need algaecide at all. What you need is a good test kit.

 

[20GT]

hi bama
lots of test kits out there since the important stuff is:
FC - Free Chlorine
CC or TC - Combined Chlorine or Total Chlorine
pH -
TA - Total Alkalinity
CH - Calcium Hardness
CYA - Cyanuric Acid (stabilizer/conditioner)
which one do i get off your site, one where i dont go broke.
i guess my pool is official swamped out.
i lose site of the brush after 2.5 feet and just saw a 2" water bug swim by.
going to get water tested now from L's till i get a better test kit will update on ph and chlor.

PS what do you guys think of the electronic test kits

The unique, multi-test ColorQ pool and spa hand-held photometer reads SEVEN test factors (Free Chlorine (DPD), Total Chlorine (DPD), Bromine (DPD), pH, Alkalinity, Calcium Hardness, and Cyanuric Acid) directly on a digital display. Featuring an innovative dual-optic design the ColorQ provides more accuracy and more test factors. The ColorQ eliminates the need to visually determine slight color variations or use look-up tables, thus taking the guesswork out of pool side water analysis. The user-friendly photometer, testing reagents and photo-diagrammatic trilingual instructions (English, Spanish, French) are packaged in a convenient carrying case. $138.00

 

[JasonLion]

I recommend the TF100 from TFTestKits.net. The Taylor K-2006 is also good.

 

[Bama Rambler]

I recommend nothing but the TF-100 but if you get the K-2006 or equal we're fine with that too. Just don't be fooled by the pool store telling you the K-2005 is the same. It has to have the FAS-DPD test not just the DPD test.

 

[Sportsman]

if you search the board you'll find threads on the electronics but I believe the gouge is they aren't as accurate as FAS-DPD.

Hang in there, I've used nothing but BBB in the year I've had my pool and had zero problems. Nothing has ever been in my pool but bleach, liquid chlorine, and muriatic acid. NOw, I've trained the whole family and have my kids test like crazy while we're in triple digit temps. A little paranoia a day keeps the green away.

 

[Sportsman]

an added note, I keep my CYA at 40 so I can use the OTO test on a daily basis with my FC range between 3 and 5. I run full tests on weekend or after heavy pool use.

 

[20GT]

thanks everyone. will get test kit soon
new test results in sig.
added 2.5 gal chlorine and 6oz sodium bromide (she bought it last night thought i'd use it up)
including pic of water bug fished out a few minuets ago.
noticed its not neon green anymore kinda of dirty green now.

 

[20GT]

ok .... the pool has dramatically changed color
green is gone looks clear but cant see bottom so must be cloudy.
so far far so good

 

[anonapersona]

Progress! Keep on at shock levels as you keep the filter clear.

 

[JasonLion]

In the future, avoid adding sodium bromide. There is nothing you can do about it now, but it tends to cause more problems than it helps.

 

[20GT]

thanks guys
so keep it at FC 15 till the pool runs clear? a sand filter might take a week? so no swimming till then ?
after its clear how do i get FC down to swim-able levels? she's getting it tested now.

 

[anonapersona]

The sun will lower the FC, once you quit shocking. Having SwG off speeds that, of course.
Once you are done shocking, passed overnight test, pool is clean but not totally clear, then it is just a filter issue.