First Test Results w/TF-100 and Brand New Pool > Questions…

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M

mschmidt33

0
Oct 30, 2010
96
Highland, MI
All,
We finally got water in our vinyl 21K gal IGP a few weeks ago. The PB was balancing the water (sort of) and it is about time I took over. We also have an Easytouch 8, IntelliChlor IC40 SWG, IntelliFlo VS-3050 SVRS VSP, Mastertemp 250HD, and Triton II TR100 30” Sand Filter w/Zeobrite.

The water was all trucked in from a local pool fill company; I have maybe added a few inches of water in the last few weeks. This is from a community well and does not run through my softener. I plan to connect it in soon. We drink the water; it is very good from what I can tell. I’m sure I could get a report if needed.

The water has gotten cloudy twice. The first time he added some clarifier and “blue” stuff, then the 2nd time he said it was not measuring any chlorine and added some stabilizer and salt. The salt ppm was 2450 at that time and the IC40 was showing low salt before adding. I ran the pump all night both times and it cleared up. The water tastes funny right now (3265 ppm), if that is just due to the latest salt level I would have to say I don’t care for it.

The pool also gets a white/tan ring on the liner and fiberglass steps. It is not coming off as much as it was originally. Don’t know what to use? The PB has also been adding powder PH reducer here and there. Isn’t this bad with an SWG?

I bought a TF100, salt strips, borate strips and a speedstir. Have not thought about borates yet and the speed stir is still in the package.

FC 2.5, the blue Taylor test kit also showed about 2.5. Aquacheck 15 sec test strips were closer to 1.5.
CC 0
TC 2.5
PH 8.0 from the blue Taylor test kit, Aquacheck strips confirmed, Was over 8.2 last week.
TA 110, It was pink at nine drops and turned magenta/red at 11 drops, About 120 on Aquacheck strips
CH 250, there were little floating speckles like glitter? From blue to red at 25 drops. How would I know if I have copper in the pool?
CYA<20 I overflowed the tube and could still see the dot faintly
Temp 85F
Salt 3265ppm
Stabilizer from Aqaucheck strips is still showing low around 0 or just above.

Questions:
1) FC, use the very small blue scooper, or the flat end?
2) There is no PH test in the TF100, or do I just use the blue Taylor box? That blue box said to not record this number? How do people get accurate PH? This is a daily check so I hope there is a quick and accurate method.
3) What to use to clean lines/stains on walls?
4) Can the PB’s powder PH reducer damage the SWG? The “Cell” light is not always lit up? It comes on and off at times? Perhaps it is bad now?
5) Do I need to check for copper?
6) What is a good pump speed? I notice anything below 1550 rpm does not trigger the “Flow” light on the IC40? We are getting solar and deck jets too so the dynamics will change still.
7) Should the returns spill out cloudy water after a backwash? It makes a clear pool get a bit of a haze when all mixed? PB said it is just some of the zeobrite and due to the new filter.
8) How often to backwash?
9) What setting for IC40? Sanitizer is at 100 now; I turned it down to 40 after this weekend as the FC was over 3.5 on the test strips. I did use the SuperChlor setting for 24 hours this past weekend though as we had a bunch of kids over.
10) Is stabilizer important?

Thanks in advance,
Mike
 
Re: First Test Results w/TF-100 and Brand New Pool > Questio

1) Use the tiny spoon end.
2) Use the PH test that comes in the Taylor K-1000, that comes in the TF100. That really is the best PH test available. It gets easier with practice and with bright backlighting. You don't need to get the PH exactly anything, just keep it generally in range.
3) Requires investigation, see below.
4) No, it is only an issue if you use a huge amount of it. The cell light should only be on when the cell is energized, which is only part of the time.
5) Probably not.
6) The lowest speed that works reliably with the IC40 and the skimmers.
7) Probably not, but zeo does tend to do that. It might not have been backwashed enough when it was first installed.
8) Any time the filter pressure goes up by 25% above the starting pressure.
9) You need to experiment. If the FC level is too high, turn it down. If the FC level is too low, turn it up.
10) Yes very very important. With a SWG you want CYA around 70 to 80.

Can you describe this white/tan ring in more detail? Is it smooth, or rough? Does any of it scrape off with a fingernail?
 
Re: First Test Results w/TF-100 and Brand New Pool > Questio

1) The small scoop end.
2) Use the test in the blue box. It's as good a pH test as we have that's resonable.
3) Lots of stuff you can try. Mr Clean Magic Eraser is one.
4) Most swcg mfg's recommend not using dry acid (pH reducer). Muriatic acid is better.
5) If you've never added copper then no but if you're not sure have the local pool store test it.
6) You'll just have to play with dofferent speeds to get what works for your setup.
7) It shouldn't but I know nothing about Zeo so maybe it's normal.
8) When the pressure rises 25% above normal pressure when running at backwash speed.
9) Test with your new TF-100 and adjust as required to keep your FC in the recommended level for your CYA.
10) Stabilizer is VERY important. Both too much and not enough is a problem.

JAson beat me but I'm not discarding all this typing. :hammer:
 
Re: First Test Results w/TF-100 and Brand New Pool > Questio

I have to admit... I was confused about the little blue scoop at first as well. The scoop itself was so tiny I assumed it was the handle and the flat end some kind of special "heaping" type of scoop.

Fortunately pool store guy sensed my confusion and cleared it up before I went home and heaped all that extra powder with the flat end.

FWIW... half a tiny scoop of powder is all I need to turn it pink. I spilled all but about 4 scoops worth of powder last week and still have a bit left because I stopped using full scoops trying to make it last till the refills come in. Now I realize I probably don't need two refills, a few grains of the stuff seems to work just fine.
 
Re: First Test Results w/TF-100 and Brand New Pool > Questio

Thanks for the replies…

3) Requires investigation, see below. Can you describe this white/tan ring in more detail? Is it smooth, or rough? Does any of it scrape off with a fingernail? The ring is a few inches tall due to water movement with the pump on. It kind of looks like a thin layer of dried dirt. Yes, I can scrap it off with a fingernail, though I have to drag it awhile because it is so thin. It does have a texture to it, like very very fine sand paper.

10) Yes very very important. With a SWG you want CYA around 70 to 80. – Is stabilizer and CYA the same thing?

Next steps:
1) Go get some cyanuric acid to get CYA up?
2) Go get some muriatic acid to lower PH?
3) Just clean the ring and hope it won't come back?
4) For the Pool Calculator what should my goals be? Any other tips? I messed with it for a few minutes and was a little confused on exactly what to do. Someone want to fill it out for me and take a screendump? I learn quick :>

Anything else look out of whack?

Thanks again,
Mike
 
Re: First Test Results w/TF-100 and Brand New Pool > Questio

Enter your current test results in the pool calculator now column. Use the info from the recommended levels chart in the target column. That will tell you how much of each chemical you need to add.

Add CYA and lower the pH as you stated.
 
Re: First Test Results w/TF-100 and Brand New Pool > Questio

OK, it looks like 20oz of muratic acid and 400oz! of liquid stabilizer... I see CSI is .35, could the ring on my walls be scaling? I see white rings left on the steps this morning?
 
Re: First Test Results w/TF-100 and Brand New Pool > Questio

In all the details going on here, being overlooked is the TWO MOST IMPORTANT adjustments you need to make on the pool....

1. Lower your pH down to 7.2 - 7.4 right away. Yes, the ring could be scaling and your high pH is contributing.

2. Get more chlorine in your pool pronto. with little to no CYA, the chlorine is being consumed very fast (daily) aqnd is probably the cause of the cloudy water.
 
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