Adding a "to waste/drain" to plumbing SOLVED

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bobodaclown

TFP Expert
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Apr 14, 2011
2,355
Murrieta, CA
Hello All,
I have a CC 100 Cartridge filter in my plumbing system. I'm thinking of using the drain plug on the cartridge filter as a drain for my pool. I'm getting tired of dragging out the sump pump.

This is my idea:
1. Remove drain plug at the bottom of the cartridge filter canister. Its 1.5 inches threaded.
2. Thread in an adapter or coupling to 1.5 pvc.
3. Then a shut off valve then a 1.5 drain pipe.
4. When I need to drain down the pool open the shut off valve and turn on the pool pump.

Is there a reason this wouldn't work or shouldn't be done that way.
I think this would be easier than cutting into the plumbing.

Thanks in advance
Bob
 
Re: Adding a "to waste/drain" to plumbing

There's a T in my return line that has a hose bib thread on it. I just hook a garden hose to it. It doesn't get full flow, but it's enough to water the lawn with.

That said, I wish I had a multiport in my system.
 
Re: Adding a "to waste/drain" to plumbing

If you check the drain plug on the bottom if the stock number is 86202000 Drain Cap Assy. Then it's the standard 1.5 inch PVC plumbing thread stuff. I used an threaded 1.5 inch to PVC then a section of pvc an 1.5 inch ball valve and then out to the driveway to drain.

The drain cap assy is like $10 and a 1.5 inch threaded cap is only $.89 and does the same thing, go figure.
 
Re: Adding a "to waste/drain" to plumbing

Are you opening the drain plug while the pump is on? Another way to do it would be to make your own multiport valve. If you cut into line after the pump prior to the filter with a T junction put a on/off valve going to the filter and to a open plug (your exhaust drain) then you could control the water flow. You could drain water very fast like backflushing while not using your filter to filter waste water and getting it dirty for nothing. Close the water going to the filter and get high pressure to your OPEN exhaust port. This should drain your pool fast till it reaches the skimmer level.
 
Re: Adding a "to waste/drain" to plumbing

ocgamer said:
Are you opening the drain plug while the pump is on? Another way to do it would be to make your own multiport valve. If you cut into line after the pump prior to the filter with a T junction put a on/off valve going to the filter and to a open plug (your exhaust drain) then you could control the water flow. You could drain water very fast like backflushing while not using your filter to filter waste water and getting it dirty for nothing. Close the water going to the filter and get high pressure to your OPEN exhaust port. This should drain your pool fast till it reaches the skimmer level.
Click to expand...

I've plumbed in a shut off valve into where the drain plug would go. I didn't want to cut into the plumbing it was easier this way for my application. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-BvG6owVWh8s/ThINO1zeK5I/AAAAAAAAAxs/InwANBh-RHQ/s800/IMG_7471.JPG

IMG_7471.JPG
 
Re: Adding a "to waste/drain" to plumbing

How do you waste/drain the water? Through the filter drain plug? That will work but you will have to refill the filter and bleed off air. You will also filter water you plan to drain.
 
Re: Adding a "to waste/drain" to plumbing

bobodaclown's approach does not filter water that is being drained, nor does it normally result in needing to bleed off air (though that can happen sometimes). Putting in a valve and drain pipe to replace the drain plug also has other advantages. It makes the filter easier to clean out (opening a valve is easier than removing the drain plug) and gives you some control over where the water goes when you are doing a full clean out
 

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Re: Adding a "to waste/drain" to plumbing

In my picture just to let you know. The 1.5 threaded adapter, pipe section, valve, pipe section, coupling, then 90 degree are all glued but the rest isn't. All the pressure side stuff is Schedule 40 PVC, but after the valve you could use DWP (thin wall) stuff.
 
Re: Adding a "to waste/drain" to plumbing

JasonLion said:
bobodaclown's approach does not filter water that is being drained, nor does it normally result in needing to bleed off air (though that can happen sometimes). Putting in a valve and drain pipe to replace the drain plug also has other advantages. It makes the filter easier to clean out (opening a valve is easier than removing the drain plug) and gives you some control over where the water goes when you are doing a full clean out
Click to expand...
I dont like the idea of using pressure to waste water out of the filter. Sure the drain will remove water just before its filtered within the hopper but how does the filter deal with negitive pressure and still return some water to the pool? You have water trying to get back to the pool while the drain is open. Hayward specifically says not to do this. On the pro multiports they build in a specific notch on the control for bypass and waste to avoid using the filter when wasting water. The drain opening is to be used while not under pressure and to drain the filter for servicing. This is my understanding of the warning Hayward writes in the manual.
 
Re: Adding a "to waste/drain" to plumbing

ocgamer said:
JasonLion said:
Sure the drain will remove water just before its filtered within the hopper but how does the filter deal with negitive pressure and still return some water to the pool? You have water trying to get back to the pool while the drain is open. Hayward specifically says not to do this.
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
What warning? None of what you are saying makes any sense. There won't be negative pressure, hardly any water will go back to the pool, and nowhere I looked (five or six different Hayward manuals) says a thing about this.

You should never open up a filter or remove the drain plug while the filter is pressurized, but that isn't what is happening in this situation. Removing the drain plug is dangerous. Having the drain plug already removed and then applying pressure is just fine.
 
Re: Adding a "to waste/drain" to plumbing

It actually works quite well with the pump running and the drain open, and I still get some flow back to the pool through the filter. I have a Pentair Clean and Clear owners manual P/N 178556 Rev. D 6-26-09 the manual doesn't state any thing like that.

The pump creates flow, resistance to flow creates pressure. Water enters the bottom of the unit and can go 3 possible ways:
1. Though the filter medium
2. Though the drain valve if opened.
3. Or some combination of the above options.
Water will go the path of least resistance and will try to equalize.

There is no negative pressure after the pump when the pump is operating.
 
Re: Adding a "to waste/drain" to plumbing

Very interesting and helpful thread. I just plumbed a garden hose nib to drain overfilling from rain.
I should've looked here first. I put it after filter because it was more eaiser to get to, there is no T, just inline, is that why the water comes out kinda weak?(unlike garden hose from regular plumbing pressure)

Dumb question, but wouldn't putting a valve after drain nib to block return to pool and have 100% go out nib to drain be more effective/faster? or would i blow up filter?

Thanks again guys!
 
Re: Adding a "to waste/drain" to plumbing

water takes the path of least resistance. A hose bib is pretty small compered to the rest of the pipe. you could add a valve to create resistance (block) and more water would pass out the hose bib.
 
Re: Adding a "to waste/drain" to plumbing

I'm a brand new pool owner, installed a few months ago, and have been trying to figure out how to "vacuum to waste" if I ever had to. I was thinking of installing a 3 way valve between the pump and filter, but then I thought about the drain at the bottom of the canister. I went to the pool supply store and bought one of these valves, removed the drain cover and replaced it with the valve. Connected the blue pvc collapsible hose to it with a hose clamp, and now I can vacuum to waste AND drain the pool in case of heavy rains. Also, if vacuuming to waste, I would just remove the cartridge so no "unwanted" residue does not get caught in the cartridge. Like I said, I'm a real newbie to this, so I'm sure others have better solutions, like one in another thread who suggested vacuuming via a siphon directly out of the pool, which sounds simple, but I thought this would give better suction.

44079.jpg
 
Hmmm, if I were to leave the cartridge in, then the backwashing procedure would defeat the purpose of trying to keep the cartridge clean of any unwanted materials. What if I were to put a shut off valve at the exit point of the filter as well. This way I could remove the cartridge and prevent any thing flowing back into the pool. The only way for water to exit would be from the drain. Yes, that valve lists for $22, but after all the $$$$ I spent having everything installed, the $22 did not seem like a big expenditure. Not sure why some of these manufacturers don't just incorporate certain things into their respective designs. After lurking in the forum, it seems most of you guys are always modifying to make them better.
 

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