Clean/Check Cell warning

[Bermuda Pool]

Hi folks,

I'm new here as well. I have a Autopilot Dig 220 and find myself with a similar problem. I have had my SWG running for 3 years event free. All of a sudden at the end of last season, I started to get the Clean/Check Cell warning. I figured that my cell was done and got a brand new replacement (SC-60).

Nothing seems to be working, as I've checked the power in (220 V) - OK. I use Mineral Springs (Bioguard) and levels are OK. My cell voltage is 18V and 4.7 Amps. Cell power - 3.

I have not checked the fuses or cell cable for continuity, but will do that in the next hour.

Any assistance would be much appreciated....

Bermuda Pool

 

[Bama Rambler]

When you say nothing seems to be working, what exactly do you mean?
You obviously have power to the cell. Is it producing bubbles in the cell?
Post a full set of test results and how you got them.
pH
FC
CC
TA
CH
CYA
Salt

 

[Bermuda Pool]

Balmer Rambler,

Unfortunately, I'm not at my pool at this time but will get the details for you ASAP. What I meant by nothing seems to be working is that it did not seem to be producing chlorine. And I'm not sure, as I added some chlorine stabalizer to get the free chlorine count up to par last night (side note: I just filled my pool over the weekend, so the pool has only been running for approx 2 1/2 days (8 hrs/day)).

I will definitely get back to you with the numbers that you asked for...

Thanks again...

 

[Poolsean]

Have your salt level tested also.

 

[Bermuda Pool]

Yes they are around 3200 - 3500 PPM as measure by Bioguard Salt test strips.

 

[Bama Rambler]

That brand new fill thing would have been nice to know from the beginning.

how much CYA (stabilizer) did you add, and in what form? I bet you don't have enough yet.

 

[Bermuda Pool]

I added about 1 pound of a 5 pound Bucket. It was granual form.

 

[Bama Rambler]

What size is your pool? It'd be nice to put that stuff in your sig when you get a chance.

I bet 1 lb isn't nearly enough unless you have a bathtub!

 

[Bermuda Pool]

pool size approximately 14,000 gallons

 

[Bama Rambler]

According to the Pool Calc you need to add about 8 lbs of stabilizer. I'd add the 5 lbs and order a good test kit (see my sig) and wait a day or two and see if the swcg starts keeping FC in the water. You can use the time waiting to read Pool School and learn how to use the Pool Calc.

 

[Poolsean]

Your amps and volts are out of range for cell power 3. If your salt level is correct, the cell is clean, and your incoming power is 220 volts, the lower amps and volts would point to a damaged power module.
You would have to power the system down, remove the cover and inner metal cover, and inspect the power circuit board for signs of damage.
How old is your system?

There's a slight chance that a depleted cell may give you lower amps, but the voltage should increase.
Put the system to Cell Power 2, press boost, let it run a few minutes and run the test again. If the amps and volts are still low, your power module is damaged. However, you are still generating some chlorine.

 

[Bermuda Pool]

Poolsean and Bama Rambler,

Here are my readings this morning as measured by Auquatech 7 test strips:

Total hardness - 250 ppm
Total Chlorine - 5 ppm
Total Bromine - 10 ppm
PH - 7.5
Total Alkalinity - 80 ppm
Cyanuric Acid - 30 - 50 ppm
Salt - 2800 ppm

I let the pool run all night, Test Pool fuction on Autopilot was 24V at 8 amps. Warning message has gone away. Is this because the cell takes some time to start generating chlorine? It apears that it is fine now, however I will keep an eye on it over the next few days to see if it stays stable.

 

[Poolsean]

Bermuda Pool,

Correct on the power ramping up.
Not that I trust test strips too much, but based on those readings, I would recommend increasing the Cya to 75 ppm, and getting the salt to 3500 ppm.